Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 GLS Parking Brakes Not Fully Releasing
Sep 27, 2011
We have a 2009 GLS AWD 3.3l and recently discovered that the parking brake was not fully releasing. We watch our mileage quite closely with the obc and it wasn't seeming quite right. A quick check of the rear parking brake drums showed that they were hot..as in not red hot but too hot to touch. The cure seems to be to work the parking brake pedal up and down fast and many times to 'free up' the mechanisms....this we now do after each time we use that brake. Sadly it is necessary to use it from time to time or like all parking brakes, it would become dysfunctional. Just a tip for those who may wonder why their good mileage suddenly went bad.
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Parking Brake not releasing fully and therefore the car thinks it's on, sounds the gong and puts a big red P on the MFI? I've had this problem a couple of times now. I can cure it by hooking my left foot under the parking brake pedal and just lifting it slightly at the top of its natural travel when operating the release handle. But it certainly makes me not want to put it on. Trip to the workshop required?
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The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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In cold weather (10-15 deg.) the brakes in my 2009 Santa Fe are very soft/spongy. I had to depress the brake pedal nearly to the floor before it would stop on dry pavement. Once it's warmed up, the brakes seem fine. Pumping them seems to work but they are not back to their normal condition.
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I just installed new brake pads in my 2WD 2009 Santa Fe. I bought the cheapest AutoZone pads. Now I have a loud squeal sound when I apply the brakes. If I apply a hard brake the squeal goes away. Until I apply the brakes again. Now, after install...I have been researching and noticed that the stock pads are ceramic. I did apply (Not once but twice) break grease on the pads. What the problem might be? Oh yeah, I did see that after 2007, oiling the caliper springs is required and might be the problem too. But I do not know where the spring in question is and how to oil it.
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I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
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I've got a 2011 santer fe auto with a foot hand brake. i park the car on my drive which is on a slight incline, when i put it in reverse and then release the hand brake there is a crunching sound and the rear offside wheel locks. It eventually releases after a number of revolutions but it sounds very mechanical clunky.
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I have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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Today I stopped at the post office to check my mail. I put the car in park and didn't shut off the engine - this is what I always do. When I returned a few moments later the car would not go into reverse (this was after releasing the parking brake) and the traction control symbol came on. The car would go into drive but that didn't work much as I was up against a hill (or almost against it). Shutting the car off and turning it on again solved the problem. The parking space was badly potholed; I'm assuming I had less than full contact on one wheel which caused the traction control to kick in which prevented reverse from engaging. And to be clear - it's not that it went into reverse but didn't go anywhere; reverse simply wouldn't engage (I did not try neutral),
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2013 accent auto My car rolls noticeably after parking unless the ground is completely flat. Parking brakes prevents it from rolling but I don't use parking brakes every time. Another brake problem I have is thump or clunk noise I get whenever I release a brake from stop.
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I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
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I have a 2010 prius 2;
This morning after starting the car and releasing the brakes I heard loud clunking sound (seemed like a belt ?) Turned the car off. tried it again exact same thing, turned if off .. opened the hood to see if I can tell where this was coming from.. started the car and the clunking came for <1 sec and went away, car drove fine brakes worked fine..
I read something regarding temp changes we have had some change but not a drastic change, and the car was driven over the weekend.
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I have put on over 45000 miles already on my 07 SX4 and love this car. I am getting a brake light coming on at various times after releasing the brakes and accelerating. It goes out usually after I stop accelerating or hitting the brakes. It does not come back on after driving about 20 miles.
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I bought a 2011 Santa Fe in September and now that winter has set in up here, I find that when approaching a stop sign and there is black ice, I noticed that when you press on the brakes, it shudders. Almost jumps if you know what I mean. I've never had this experience and scared the crap out of me the first time. Is it normal? The only time it does this is when the wheels lock and slide on the ice. The brakes? I think then shudder. This is the first Hyundai I've ever owned and love it so far.
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It's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
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Just like the title says out of the blue the esc light will come on and it sounds like the front brakes are grinding. This only happens once in a while but more often as of late. Grinding noise does not occur until after the light comes on. Sometimes the light will stay on for a minute and then go out and everything is fine. Other times we need to shut the car off and on for the light to go out. Grinding noise only occurs one time in all instances.
We just had a brake job done 3 months ago so I am at a loss as to the problem. This is an 07 FWD Sante Fe.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
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On my Santa fe 2009 , Just noticed that I can shift from PARK to R, N, D or anything else without pressing on the brake. I checked the gear sticky by the mechanic , and we found that the lock on the gear sticky not exists. So I am worry if that normal and it's like safety option that not exists on my car? Also , is it something that may case damage to the transmission , or just Safety option .
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I have a Santa Fe 2010 2.4 awd 6AT with 20000km, I live in Ushuaia, Argentina, here the use of salt is normal in winter (a lot of salt). I have one winter and the second is coming with this SUV. Today I was in a road at 120km/h (75mph) and I had to apply brakes. In that moment I noted a little vibration on the steering wheel. After release brake pedal, the vibration disappeared. I checked again with same results, is been posible that my brake discs could be damaged or something is wrong with the brake system? I didn't have any light of malfunction. What is the normal life of brakes discs and pads in a santa fe with normal use?
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I did lube my brakes 2 weeks ago (2nd I am doing it) and since then for the first couple of kms, the brakes are making a squeak noise. I think I put a little too much grease. Could it be the reason why its making noise ?
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