My wife has a 09 Santa Fe and we were getting code p0464 fuel sensor circuit intermittent. I changed both parts that need replacing. After about 20 miles now code p0442 small evap leak detected. I can only assume that it is coming from the fuel sensors that were replaced. Is there anything that I could have screwed up on?
View 1 RepliesThis last May I gave myself a graduation present and got a 2013 Sonata SE. I bought it through my Dad's friend's dealership at a pretty good deal and loved the car for the first few months, then things went South pretty quickly.
I've had more CEL issues with this car than I ever did with my piece of garbage 2000 Grand Cherokee.
The first time the light came on, I brought it to AutoZone who said I needed a new Cannister Close Valve. I then took it to my local Hyundai Dealership (Not my dad's friend's, I recently moved up to Ohio and that dealership was in Alabama) who verified that it was indeed the cannister close valve. They said I didn't need to get it fixed because it actually had nothing to do with the engine, but they gave me the part number should I want to buy it and switch it myself to save a few bucks. I bought the part from them and drove down to visit my family in the summer with the CEL on (who are in Memphis) to have my family's mechanic switch out the part. On my way down I stopped to get gas and, unfortunately for me, the gas hose kept clicking off like the tank was full after a quarter of a gallon, which obviously wasn't right. I brought it to my Memphis Mechanic and had them switch out the part, which they also said would resolve my fueling issue. They said everything was good, but on my short drive home (less than 10 miles from the mechanic) the light came back on. I turned around and my mechanic said he'd look at it. They then told me that I needed to replace a sensor in the EVAP system and that should solve the issue. For the rest of my time in Memphis, and on the drive back up to Ohio, I had no CEL, but I still had the fueling issue, but nowhere near as bad as it used to be. Once I was back in Cincinnati, however, sure enough, that stupid orangish-yellow light appeared back on my dashboard. I took it back to the Hyundai dealership who then wanted to charge me $500 to switch out the charcoal cannister which they were saying was the problem. To my great aggravation, they were unable to tell me that would solve my issue, but that it "should" fix it.
Well, yesterday the CEL popped right back on giving the same codes it's always been giving: P0442 and P0456.
I hope its just a gas cap issue. I just purchased one online (should arrive next week). I also tried to add Dielectric Grease to the rubber seal on the gas cap to soften it up a bit but to no avail. I hooked up my OBDII code reader to get the codes and it would only read with the car fully turned on and not with just the ACC like other cars without the smart key push button. Is that the right procedure?
View 12 Replies2 error codes? Car runs fine - nothing seems wrong - the check engine light went on, so I pulled out the scanner which came up with the 2 codes: P0021 and P0022.
View 8 RepliesI've been getting P0442, P0442P and P0456P on my 2005 Camry 4 cylinder standard since about December 2011. For some odd reason, lately P0456P stopped when scanning when the CEL comes on again after erasing the code.
There's no symptoms of any problem so I think it's likely to be some small leak in the evap. Looking at my gas cap, it's a little dirty, but I don't see any cracks or damage, and I always make sure to fasten it on tight.
I have emission test coming up soon. (Actually this happened for 1st time like about 4 years ago when the car was under warranty. The dealer simply said that I didn't fasten on the fuel cap right, and erased the codes and sent me home. After about 4 years, same codes now that the warranty has expired....)
My driver side bi-xenon bulb was out, so I go to replace the bulb and it still doesn't turn on. I scanned my car with my vagcom, and I get this error.
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-30-H.lbl
Part No SW: 3C8 937 049 E HW: 3C8 937 049 E
Component: Bordnetz-SG H54 2602
Revision: 00H54000 Serial number: 00000008706034
Coding: E78C8FA300041C004719000014000000002AF7475C40012539 0000000000
[Code] .....
This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
The check engine light on my sons 03 celica is on. Went to autozone and they got the codes for me. They are P0420, P0442, P0446, P0456. I realize that I should probably have an OBD11 reader. What steps do I take to fix this?
View 2 Replies2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
I bought a gorgeous red 4.0L V-6 Mustang very cheap last week because it needed a clutch. I would not even pull the car. Little did I know that the clutch kit, including the slave cylinder and flywheel, was over $600. (But that's another story.)
The car runs now, but will not go over 3800 RPM in any gear. It had NINE codes, which they cleared. I was told that they primarily pointed to the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with the recommended aerosol. I have driven it 20 miles, and the MIL has not returned, but the little wrench symbol has. The Manual says to take it to the dealer (of course). The car seems to run fairly well, with the exception of the low rev limit. It is a "fly by wire" set up, with electronic throttle.
The cleared codes were P0102, P0113, P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, P0403, P0443, and P0446. They actually repeated on Autozone's scanner. (My six year old Actron won't link to this car for some reason.
Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
Just turned 80k and recently noticed a bit rougher at idle. Other than that all has been fine. Plugs, etc. all original. Engine and VSC Light. Autozone ran the scan which turned up the above stated codes. They are defined as Evaporative emission control system pressure. He said it could be a loose gas cap. Checked it and its tight as a drum.
View 3 RepliesSo on monday the following error codes appeared on my car. What needs to be replaced off the error codes?
P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0301Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected2014-02-04 13:48:29
P2030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P3030No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
C0033No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
P0603Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error2014-02-04 13:48:29
C1400No Description Available2014-02-04 13:48:29
Our 2007 Avalon with 65xxx miles on it was skipping and running rough this morning. Running a scan with my VAG-COM gave me these codes.
Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes Address 7E8: 2 Faults Found: P0305 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected P0355 - Ignition Control Circuit for Cylinder 5: Malfunction
Would you say it is time to replace the Coil for this cylinder, or should I do more troubleshooting first?
From what I've read on this forum, it appears cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are at the rear of the engine and are a PITA to change. Is there a good write-up or video on how to change these at the rear of the engine?
For 2009 and 2010 f150's with the 5.4L engine, this may apply to you.
About a month back I got some odd vibrations at start-up and while driving and the following codes:
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation error
P0349 - Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation Interim.
These codes are common in the previous generation truck for various reasons. In my case, I started trying to troubleshoot with the easiest solutions first.
Checked the battery - fully charged.
Checked/played with the alternator connection and related wiring - looked good.
Checked the oil - it was down at the half mark on the dipstick, so toped it off with synthetic oil.
Cleared the codes, and now have been driving for a month, no issues, no codes!
If these codes come up for other folks, try the easiest on the list first, before bringing to the dealer... these codes can be really hard to solve, but sometimes we can get lucky.
Check engine light is on, when I went to get my car inspected it was showing an invalid vin code. How do get this off so I can get my emissions done?
2007 Santa Fe SE
The CEL came in on my friend's Chevy Silverado .....so he took it to the dealer for diagnosis/repair. After paying for the diagnosis and repair (supposedly he needed a new gas cap) he was good to go. A few days later the CEL came in. I have a code reader so he asked me to check the CEL code. It's P0442. The same code that the dealer sited. Since we know it isn't the gas cap what are the other most likely suspects? He says the truck runs fine. No drop off in MPG, no misfire, etc.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?
I need to replace O2 Sensor which is Bank 2 Sensor 2 which needs to be replaced.
Where is this located on a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L
I have an issue in my car (Santa fe 2011) and it occurred since it was new (ODO 3000 KM , ESP light is on and the 4WD Blinking) . the agency could not resolve the issue. and my car up to now been in and out from the workshop for more than 6 times . and more the error code ( C1627 ) that appears in the GDS(Global Diagnostic System) does not exist in the system (troubleshoot manual) .
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