Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 2.7L - Slow / Delayed Upshifts
Jan 18, 2015
I have 129,000 miles on my Santa Fe. Approx. 1000 miles ago it started to act abnormal. The upshifts began to feel different and it was obvious by the Tachometer and the sound of the engine that they were taking longer. Along with that, whenever you are in 4th and you want to accelerate, it feels as if you are "dragging an anchor" , The vehicle has been well maintained, trans. fluid level OK, timing belt as well as plugs, air filter have been replaced. I have no codes locked in either. What may be going on.
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Seems like the engine and transmission are talking through Google Translate. The usual problems: too quick upshifts, too slow downshifts, lugging and vibration at RPM too low for road speed around town, hesitation. Aware this all supposedly support mileage but it's putting a rough edge on an otherwise quiet and likeable car. In fact, mileage seems to be suffering a bit. Aware there's a TSB on the 6AT that supposedly cures this via a software update .
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I have been observing the passenger window for weeks. It is definitely slower than the driver one going up. No problem going down. The passenger window seems to stop at some point then slowly keeps on going up. That does not look right, it is definitely getting worse and I am ready to open the door panel. That would be my first time with a door panel.
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My 07 Santa Fe 3.3 has had a 10% drop in mileage. When put the accelerator to the floor it takes forever to speed up. I feel like I have a 100 Hp engine.
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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I have a 09 Subaru Forester with 66k miles that vibrates like it is going over rumble strips when it up shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. It occurs under normal (not brisk) acceleration. I had the trans fluid changed at both the 30k and 60k services. I have owned this since new. It began before the 60k service. Also, sometimes the tach will increase revs during this as well. I don't know if this next thing is related but when I once need to merge quickly into interstate traffic I gave it a good amount of throttle and the tach revs increased but the trans did not follow with an immediate down shift.
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Purchased this car new. 2008 GLS w/ V6 2.7L engine. Wife's car, so I rarely drive it. She's complained for a month about an intermittent issue with the jar "jerking", usually during slow speeds.
I felt it for the first time myself. Was halfway through a pretty tight curve at around 20 MPH, starting to slowly accelerate when I felt a definitive lurch. might have been momentary loss of acceleration, or transmission. Not sure which. No CEL thrown.
I did see another thread mentioning a 2007 with a similar issue, but that person had codes thrown that pointed to a Throttle position sensor and a need to reflash a transmission. Think I'm seeing the same situation, or would this be different ? Absent any CEL, I'm sure the dealer will not be able to find it....
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Heating comes up very well although air flow at the feet isn't very high but adequate. However, I notice once the cabin is warmed and it reverts to keeping it at the set temperature. I never sense it coming back on to heat again and air output feels cool.
The following doesn't reactive it into the typical heat output as when I get into a cold vehicle.
- going out to fill up for gas with doors opening etc with engine off then leaving is still a very cool output and no further warming appears to take place
- loading shopping from purchases does not seem too cool the sensor enough while engine is still running
- even while driving setting it another .5C higher does not make a difference once its cycle off the main heat mode.
Where is the SF sensor located for the internal system and is this slow response normal. How much of a drop in temperature does it need to pump at lease warm air. I'll have to experiment further I guess and adjust full degree increments until I get a response. I am comfortable most of the time but I don't like cool air blowing at me through the vents in the winter.
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I have a 2011 SF 2.4L FWD GLS with 79k miles. I replaced the OE struts and shocks 3 weeks ago with Monroe OE Spectrum struts and shocks. This improved the ride tremendously especially on the front passenger side where the strut was leaking.
After driving it for 3 weeks I still feel a little rattle or clunk when driving over ruff roads at slow speeds. I did check the ball joint and wheel bearings while I was in there, and I am certain they are not the source of the noise. I also checked the strut mount when I transferred it to the new strut, and while it appeared and felt ok I think it is the most likely cause of the remaining rattle and clunk.
Any aftermarket strut mounts for this particular model year? I have looked at RockAuto and they have a Moog Part # HYSB9816. This part claims it is for the European builds. Is there really a difference for this particular part?
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Just bought a 09 Santa Fe AWD 3.3l .. How to program this key fob/remote start 1 works the other does not do anything . The led light flashes when i push button but does not do anything to rig.
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My car santa fe 2009/ 4WD / 2,7 / around 70,000 kms. Around a week ago, I noticed some vibration, that I can feel it mainly on the gas pedal. I can assume that the vibration came from the front of the car and just at low speed, like below the 40km/h. Also I feel that when took my foot of the gas, the vibration gone.
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe Sport 3.3; that recently just started locking itself. The way i knew was because the horn kept going off as if we were pushing the lock button on the keyfob a bunch of times. Well the keyfob wasn't being pushed and the only way I could get it to stop beeping was to hold the unlock button on it. I thought it was the battery dying on the keyfob but I took it out and the car continued to beep. We are taking it in to the service department tomorrow. The only was I can stop the madness is if I have the door partially open, to break the circuit (I would imagine)
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For the past year or so my Santa Fe (49,000KM) the engine will knock for 5-45 seconds when I start it up after its been sitting a while. I asked the dealer and they said this is "normal" and cannot be adjusted.
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Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
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My 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
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Sometimes my clutch pedal stays down on the floor. I can bring it back alive after a few pumps. I assume one of the oil cylinders died. Looking for a schematic of where it s located?
A few days before I felt a metal scraping sound when I pushed the clutch pedal down. The scraping resistance happened when the pedal was aprox. 2-3 cm's from the floorboard. It scratched like 15 to 20 times and then went away. Now the clutch pedal died on me.
Fluids are checked and on level. 2009 2.2 CRDI diesel with 45.000km's ...
The dealer says it can be one of the 2 cylinders but since it's not happening all the time he suggest bringing it in and change them all.
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We've had this 2009 SE with the 3.3 since brand new, and have had the engine shut off/lose power out of the blue while driving 4 times over the years.
Each time we were able to pull off the road, shut off the ignition, then restart and have it work normally but the odd thing is that there hasn't been any codes or CEL on etc. so when we take it to the dealership they run diagnostics, and say "no codes, no problem" which is beyond frustrating.
How to get to the bottom of what's causing this?
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At 37000km we put new tires on and after about 1000km started to hear a high 'woo-woo-woo', from the rear, not really loud but a new noise. Guessing it might be tire noise I checked them for wear and thought the left rear was a bit sharp sliding your hand one direction but smooth sliding across the other way. Went for an alignment....it was only slightly off and the mechanic found the right rear wheel bearing was kaput.
It was done under warranty......but, do these vehicles are subject to premature bearing failure or was this a fluke? I did not see the bearing so I don't know if it was one of two or a pressed-on type or whatever. It would be nice to know that a wheel won't come flying off or seize up when we're halfway to nowhere if a bearing goes bad again.
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The car started rough idling and a few weeks ago while driving "lost power" momentarily. I went to take a look at it and even just idling it will randomly drop 1000 rpm, or when the gas is one in P it does the same thing. also the dash lights dim at the same time.
I pulled these codes (below). I cleared the codes and tried to replicate with no luck. The car had been sitting in a parking lot outside for a few days and it has been -15C. I asked if it seemed to only happen when it was warm (the week before it was +10C) and they said yes. It has been another week (still cold) and the codes have not returned.
Quick google of these codes suggests maybe a throttle position sensor and/or loose battery connection.
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I am happy to own a Hyundai Santa Fe (2009) 2.7l which originally originated in the US. It is a really nice car, however, it recently over time developed the problem, which causes some pain - firstly it started with rough idle (pulsating), now it began to stall from time to time when decelerating.
[URL].....
I tried to plug a OBD reader and here's what I get (well, that's a "pending" fault, but still might be useful).
I tried to browse around the internet. I believe it is unlikely that 2 oxygen sensors fail at the same time. It could possibly be caused by vacuum leaks or faulty MAF. Is it a common fault among Santa Fe?
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In cold weather (10-15 deg.) the brakes in my 2009 Santa Fe are very soft/spongy. I had to depress the brake pedal nearly to the floor before it would stop on dry pavement. Once it's warmed up, the brakes seem fine. Pumping them seems to work but they are not back to their normal condition.
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