My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
View 15 RepliesI just bought a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3ltr with auto trans and all wheel drive. When I purchased it the speedometer did not work. I bought the VSS gear and installed it and now my transmission does not shift properly. Also I had it to the dealership for an ECU update and they said that their computer could not connect to the ECU.
View 2 RepliesWhen I am driving and I start to slows down to a store my head lights dim when my transmission shift down (A/T). At first it didn't bother me but now since I have noticed it, it is annoying. Although the dimming in not super dangerous but I am worried there might be a bigger issue.
2009 Automatic Santa Fe
We've got a new 2010 Santa Fe AWD LTD with about 2800km on it. About once or twice a week, under normal driving, we've noticed very harsh shifts. It seems to be the 2-3 shift and is around 40km/h. Just normal acceleration from a stop sign. And just recently a new issue. It seemed like it got stuck mid-shift...
I was accelerating slowly from a stop and on the 2-3 shift the engine revved up above 3000 as if it was in neutral. I eased off the gas and then it completed the shift. My wife took it into the dealer today, but I'm worried they'll send it back as "unreproducible" as we've only had about 1 problem for every 10 hours of driving. We'll see what they say. As you can imagine, I'm not very impressed that we're having these issues before our first oil change...
Somebody mentioned that maybe there's something sticking in the transmission and it builds up enough pressure and then finally makes the shift. But I'm not a transmission expert by any means...
I'm new to this and not really sure if I'm doing it right. I need to know how to take the gear shift knob off my 2008 santa fe.
View 3 Replies08 SANTA FE, NO HI OR LOW BEAMS. Daylight running lites work, fog lites work, checked all fuses, relays, and bulbs,& connectors.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 Santa Fe LTD, and just recently started experiencing a strange noise when I am accelerating, and I cannot pinpoint it. Here is some info on the noise.
-2008 Santa Fe LTD AWD, about 25,000 miles
-Sounds like a little higher pitched hum, not very loud
-Seems to be coming from somewhere near the passenger side backseat area (first found out about it when someone was sitting there and asked what the noise was)
-Cannot tell whether it is coming from the interior or exterior of the car, but I think exterior, but it is definitely somewhere along the passenger side, from the back half of the car.
-Noise occurs when accelerating from a stopped position, only when accelerating, never when braking or idle.
-Noise occurs only when car is in gear (hitting the gas pedal in park does not cause the noise to happen)
-Noise doesn't occur at high speeds or when accelerating at high speeds
-Noise only really occurs for a 2-3 seconds while accelerating, then seems to go away as I continue to drive.
-Noise doesn't seem to always happen, but very frequently.
I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
My 2008 Tundra's tranmission went out last week when attempting to shift from 4 WD high, into 4wd lo, then back into high.
I was stuck in the snow in 4wd high, then tried low, to no avail, tried the transmission in lo (which didn't engage--just 'lo' light blinking and alarm buzzer, then tried 4wd HI and there was NO transmission response, a grinding in "P' and no low, high, or anything--from Park to D, Reverse, all the gears were gone, and I was getting ready to call for a tow truck, and after grinding the P gear for a while and back into N, it went into 4wd high.
Toyota replicated the problem, after some doing, and they're trying to fix it as the 4wd acuator is a problem--it's backordered to Japan which means the truck is out of action for a month.
There are similar reports of damage and problems listed on the NHTSA website.
Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
I've noticed something new on my R32 recently. If I let the car sit in neutral with the motor on it's rpms will start to climb slowly. Normally it idles at around 800 rpm but when this happens it will climb to around 1200 rpm and stay there. Usually it takes a couple of minutes but you can slowly see the tach climbing. Also, you can feel the engine slowly revving as well (can hear it).
Now this doesn't happen all the time. I've only experienced it a few times in the past couple of weeks and only seems to happen if the car has been sitting idle with the motor on for at least 10 minutes (it happens when I've been at sonic waiting for an order). I can bring the rpms back to normal if I rev the car up to around 3.5k and let the motor settle back down to idle. What is causing this?
My 4.65L V8 Explorer has an issue in low gear - RPMS rev high but car doesn't shift up.. eventually "catches" with a jerk but the OD Light started flashing and the Systems Screen reads Check Transmission. Light goes out and message goes away after turning car off and restarting. Had one Tech look at it - he said second gear is toast and need full transmission rebuild. Another Ford Tech looked and could just be solenoid needing replacement and advised to have a transmission service (not a flush) done....
View 2 RepliesI just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
View 11 RepliesI have a strange problem. My driver side low beam dont work and my right side high beam dont work. Try different relay (switching), check fuse, bulb etc. Also in my dashboard the right green arrow for the flasher always still on(solid).
If I activate (with the control arm) the right turn flasher the flasher light blink in the dash board and my outside flasher bulb flash but my left high beam also blinking in the same time!
I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.