Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 - Subtle Clunking Felt Through Gas Pedal
Nov 22, 2011
My wifes 08 santa fe awd has started to make a subtle clunking that I can feel through the gas pedal. At first I thought it was the AWD system but now it seems to be getting more frequent and noticeable.
I have searched and see that the front stabilizer bars have had issues with this year. Is the thump I am experiencing possible a sign of this?
If so how long would that be covered under warranty. The 3/36 has just expired on us.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I got the attached warning today on my 2010 LS600. The pedal felt a little soft after the warning. It kept popping off and on, dinging every 30-40 seconds.
I checked the brake fluid, it was full. Car has 36k
I had it towed in to Lexus and they couldn't get the warning to come back up.
View 4 Replies
2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
View 3 Replies
I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
View 4 Replies
I recently bought an '09 Santa Fe Limited. I want to love the vehicle, but I've got a problem with how it drives. Basically, here are the symptoms:
1. Engine RMPs dance around about 200 RPMs at idle. (I was told this is normal. I don't think it should be.)
2. Under normal acceleration, it bogs down immediately after shifting into 2nd gear and after a couple of seconds there is a surge and acceleration seems "normal."
3. Occasionally, I feel subtle fluctuations or surges in the engine under both acceleration and/or cruising speed (any speed, really.) It's like I'm feathering the throttle when I know I'm not. This is most pronounced when under a load, such as taking off from a stop sign at the bottom of a hill and accelerating up the hill.
So, here's what the dealer has done to address the issue.
1. According to the Carfax report, the previous owner had the throttle position sensor replaced at 22,000 miles and again at 27,000 miles. I bought the vehicle with just over 30,000 miles (certified pre-owned).
2. On the day that I bought the vehicle, I noticed the issue and the service manager took it for a test drive with me. He told me it was wind buffeting that I was feeling. I thought that was bunk, but with it being a higher profile vehicle, it put some doubt in my mind. He went ahead and flashed something to reset the adaptive learning module that supposedly adjusts something in the engine based on how you drive. It seemed better after that, so I went ahead and bought it.
3. After a few weeks of driving it, it became clear to me that it was definitely not wind buffeting, so I scheduled a service appt. It was taken for an "extensive" test drive (according to the service record) with a diagnostic computer connected. Apparently, the service technician said they were only able to find one small blip with the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced it and called it fixed. I should also note that at no time, have any codes ever shown up when they check for error codes.
4. Although it seem slightly better, the problem still exists. Just for kicks, I dumped a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank with my last fill up, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
View 15 Replies
The last few days, my neck of the woods has seen the first taste of winter. Had to make a 4 hour highway trip today, of which the last 2 hours involved driving over ice-packed and slushy roads, mixed with salt and sand. Needless to say, the body and undercarriage are a real mess.
When I made it to my destination, I noticed a clunking from the rear brakes with every pedal application. As my thread title indicates, the car has only 6,000 km. Also, I am very gentle on brakes. I'm not the type of driver who speeds up to a traffic light or stop sign, then slams on the brakes.
I'm thinking (hoping) the cause of the clunking is some wintery road crap has found it's way into the brakes. I guess I'll find out after a trip to the car wash.
View 3 Replies
Recently picked up a CPO 2013 F-Sport and I've been experiencing a subtle clunking noise over sharp bumps (like raised expansion joints) or potholes at speed. It's a very subtle clunk that comes from the front and rear end, not attributable to any specific corner of the car.The sound completely disappears when I flip it to Sport+ mode, leading me to wonder if the noise is just inherent to the adjustable suspension. Additionally, I didn't notice the noise until after a new set of Michelin Pilot SSs which replaced some cheap dealer tires (Accelera Phis) with very soft sidewalls.
It's not an alarming noise but it does have 53K on the odo so I'm curious as to whether this is indicative of impending bushing/strut issues or if it's normal and other F-Sport owners experience the same noise.
Prior to this I had 2009 STi (low profile tires, stiffer suspension) and never heard any clunking type noise over these same bumps (expansion joints, potholes) so it does have me slightly worried.
View 7 Replies
I have a '95 Chevy 6.5 Turbo-Diesel Pickup. The past few days there has been a whining noise that went up and down with the speed of the vehicle. I decided to have it looked at this coming week when I have a day off but when I was driving home last night the whining stopped and was replaced with a clunking. It sounds like a pair of running shoes that have been thrown in a clothes dryer. When it clunks loudly there is a shake that can be felt through the floor and seat. I now have it parked until I can find out what is going on and if it is safe to drive to the mechanic or if I should have it towed.
View 3 Replies
My girlfriend's 2002 Honda Civic. Whenever she and I make a turn in it, a clunking sound is heard and felt on the front passenger side in the area of the floorboard, and it seems to come from an area between the seat and the wheel well and seems to be getting slowly but surely/progressively worse/more noticeable as time passes. I checked underneath the car earlier today, and there aren't any observable leaks to report anywhere.
View 4 Replies
I can't find the obd port on my new 2007 SF. Also there is a clunking coming from the front suspension when i go over bumps, what is the most common cause of this?
View 13 Replies
I got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
View 10 Replies
Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
View 10 Replies
I'm the original owner at 50k miles with Ford ESP warranty. Drive-train still under original warranty. I started noticing a low growl hum noise and vibration felt on gas pedal when accelerating at about 40 MPH. At first I thought it was the road or tires.
Then a few weeks later on a slight hill the growl-low hum was accompanied with a much more noticeable/louder growl/grinding noise in a heartbeat like rhythm. Took it to dealer and they first said it was the transmission. It was replaced.
Then they said the noise was from the rear differential/axle. It was rebuilt, oiled and sealed. Taking it back today for another drive with the mechanic to show them again the problem persist. What it may be? Also, my MPG has dropped significantly from an average of 18 to 13. This is while driving on 4x4 Auto.
View 10 Replies
05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
View 12 Replies
I have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
View 2 Replies
Sometimes my clutch pedal stays down on the floor. I can bring it back alive after a few pumps. I assume one of the oil cylinders died. Looking for a schematic of where it s located?
A few days before I felt a metal scraping sound when I pushed the clutch pedal down. The scraping resistance happened when the pedal was aprox. 2-3 cm's from the floorboard. It scratched like 15 to 20 times and then went away. Now the clutch pedal died on me.
Fluids are checked and on level. 2009 2.2 CRDI diesel with 45.000km's ...
The dealer says it can be one of the 2 cylinders but since it's not happening all the time he suggest bringing it in and change them all.
View 2 Replies
I went to adjust my Santa Fe's parking brake (pedal version) and am trying to troubleshoot. The pedal goes all the way to the floor, something like 11+ clicks....
I jacked up the rear end, pulled the tires off, rotated the drum so that I could access the adjusting nut and used a flat head screwdriver to rotate it all the way back to where it wouldn't rotate anymore. After that I clicked it ~5-7 clicks. Same process on each side.
Went to go test the pedal, still goes to the floor, same number of clicks, etc.
Tried to locate an adjusting nut for the pedal but cannot find one, if one exists. The fuse box sits perfectly in the way but I was able to view everything with a little bit of effort and still couldn't locate the mythical adjusting nut.
I know I did the adjustment on the rear brakes correctly so it's an issue with the pedal/cable/nut.
View 17 Replies
I have a 2010 Santa Fe w/ ~25,000km. Yesterday, I noticed that after depressing the brake pedal (while driving) i hear a wheezing noise and then a click right before i come to a complete stop. When i am stationary, and i depress the break pedal, i hear the clicking noise but no wheezing sound.
I just took it into service today and even drove around the lot with one of the service techs and he says its normal. That the clicking noise is coming from the shifter release. I don't believe i heard this sound when i bought it, nor any other time till yesterday. The sound is driving me crazy! This cant be normal .... can it?
View 5 Replies
My B6 only has 1500 miles and I have noticed after I had the dealer replace a defective fuel rail w/only 400 miles on car a click'n noise when I am driving.
For example. When I take off from a stop, and accelerate to lets say 15-20mph and then take my foot off the accelarator, let the the engine(rpms) idle back to normal, and then re-accelarate again, immediately I hear a "CLICK" (only one x, and its not a really loud, its kinda subtle, but still you can hear it from inside the car) coming from under my feet area, very briefly and then the car takes off.
At first I thought this was normal, but of course I could not dismiss this, seeing that this is a brand new car, and figured........"well it shouldn't".
BTW, I just tinted my windows (35%) on my black B6 and it looks fantastic.
View 9 Replies
I drive a 2002 Santa Fe with 121k miles. Last week the red brake light came on in the dash that usually indicates the parking brake is activated, though it was not. Checked fluids, brakes worked fine, so I took it to the dealership to have it looked at.
They claimed "the ABS control module was leaking" and needed to be replaced in it's entirety...almost $2000, and they said that is the reason my brakes felt spongy when applied. I agreed they did. I decided to decline letting them fix it since my brakes had worked fine beforehand.
Upon picking up the car I notice the red indicator light is still on, and now the brakes need to be applied all the way to the floor to have any stopping power at all. It seemed to get worse after 2 days, I checked the brake fluid and it was empty! So I replaced the fluid, yet the brakes still function VERY poorly.
View 1 Replies
