Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 SE Won't Start After Replacing Fuel Sensors
Aug 7, 2013
I just replaced the fuel sensors and know don't have power to the fuel pump. ( checked at the harness). I had to take the canister apart to get the sensor to go in and I had the rubber seal fall off the gas tank pressure sensor the first time I hooked it up. I did find that and put it back on. I checked the fuel pump fuse and switched out the fuel pump relay with the one for the horn and had no luck .
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So a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
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I just got this 2008 santa fe a month ago from the dealer with 80.000 miles , and then yesterday the check engine light came on, i took it to auto zone and the put the computer and this 2 codes came up:
P2187
Fuel trim system lean at idle
explanation
the average long term fuel trim values at idle are more than 30% for 10 seconds
probable cause
- low fuel presure
- failed MAF sensor
- large vacuum leak
- cylinder misfire due to ignition system failure
P2189
System too lean at idle bank 2
explanation
failed MAF
probable cause
- low fuel presure
- vacuum leak on engine
- failed HO2S ( heated oxygen sensor-bank2 )
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I have a new dog which I need to leave in the car occasionally (not when it is sunny etc). Is it possible to lock the santa fe 2010 without the sensors activated so the dog doesn't set the alarm off when moving around in the boot. I just tried locking the car using the key but it didn't do anything but I can unlock with the key!
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My wife's 07 Santa Fe goes into limp mode while she's on the freeway. Had it towed to a mechanic. They report codes were: 0101, 0102, 1295, 2105, 2106, 2173. They said the sensors in the gas pedal were sending bad signal to throttle which burned out the actuator. So they wanted to replace throttle body and gas pedal sensors. They wanted $895.
Didn't seem right, so towed it to dealer. They said the first mechs were just guessing. Only the throttle body needs replacing. They wanted $960 total.
I bought a used throttle body off another 07 SF with similar vin number to avoid needing the ecm to be reprogrammed. Cost $225.
Couldn't find procedure for replacement in my pdf shop manual. Seems like this should be simple though. Anything special I need to know? Am I on the right track?
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I recently had a new coil pack put in my 2008 Santa Fe, about a week ago. Got up for work this morning and it would not turn over. It makes the clicking noise but will not catch. I jump started it and it worked. Got out of work and it wouldn't start again, got a jump start and took it to pep boys where they tested the battery as good. Could it be a shortage somewhere from the previous work done?
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I have an intermittent problem with my 2008 Santa Fe GLS (Canadian model). Sometimes, when I insert the key to start the car, the in-dash key symbol won't come up (while it usually does when everything is fine). When the problem occurs, I have all electrical power and the engine will crank over; The cranking is going very fast but shows no sign of ever turning over and the car will never start. It really looks as if the immobilizer does not recognize the key and so refuses to start the engine. So I have to remove the key, wait some time and try again. Usually, it can take 3-4 times (and up to 15 minutes!) before the key-symbol light comes up again in the dash, and then the engine will start as if nothing ever happened.
This problem occurs approximately once a week, but you never know when. I went to the dealer just for that problem but they had no clue and could not reproduce it, .... so they ended-up doing nothing to fix it. The car also has a remote starter that was installed at the dealer. It usually works fine. But the problem also occurred a few times with the remote starter trying to start the car by itself. I could hear the never ending cranking noise from the spinning starter, until the remote starter stopped for few seconds and tried again. I had to stop the remote starter manually.
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2008 Santa Fe Limited .... Car won't start. It has a new battery and alternator, new wires running to the battery. When I try to start it, there is no click and the headlights and dash lights go dim (they were very bright) then go back to bright when I stop trying to start the car. The same thing happens when I try to jump the car (using a car I have jump started this one with before). It has a Viper remote start and car alarm. When I first try to open the door it sounds like the factory alarm is going off, not the Viper one (and the Viper way of disabling the alarm with the valet switch doesn't work). The alarm seems to stop when I try to start the car, but not always. What could be wrong?
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Changed fuel relay and fuel pump and still not getting fuel.
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I left the lights on last night in our Santa Fe, and drained the battery.
Took the battery out and up to O'Reilly and they recharged it for me on their charger. When re-installing the battery the car alarm goes off as soon as I attach both battery cables. Turning the key in the ignition doesn't kill the alarm.
How do I reset the alarm and shut it up?
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Security alarm not working after replacing front drivers side actuator. Paid a local Mechanic to replace actuator and now the security alarm when you press the door lock twice on the door remote is not arming. When I press the door lock on the remote once, the doors lock. When I press it a second time to enable the alarm and to hear the horn nothing happens at all. Light doesn't flash and horn doesn't sound.
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Replaced fuel pump and filter on our 2001 Nissan Quest. It started up for a few minutes but once it got hot it sputtered out. We sprayed some starter fluid in it. Still nothing.
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Yesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
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Got 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?
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I'd like to put in a louder turn signal flasher on my 2007 F150 - where is it located and where I can get a louder one ?
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My GF's 07 Santa Fe AWD has the common (from what I've read) bad sensors in the gas tank for the fuel gauge. She needs an Echeck SOON and it won't pass with a CEL. can the codes be cleared and a fuse or something pulled to temp defeat the CEL until a proper repair can be done when we have time to do it? I don't drive it so I don't know how long before it comes back on after clearing it. It needs a drive cycle on it to get it to pass E check to so I can't clear the code and drive straight to the check center (I dont' think).
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I'm looking at replacing the fuel lines in my 94 F150 and the big question is what to do with hooking up to the fuel lines coming out of the fuel pump hat and the fuel rails? Ford uses a specialized pressure fitting on it's custom fuel lines. I think there may be some third party fittings that would replace these, but I'm not sure. I could use a standard hose and cable clamps, but I just don't trust that kind of connection for a fuel line.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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I own a 2007 Hyundai santa fe. Whenever I add fuel to the gas tank, be it 5gal-10gal or filled the engine will run real rough for 3-4 minutes after doing so. All other times the engine runs fine. This only happens when I add fuel to the tank.
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I am having this issue if it's one. With the fuel level below last quarter, I'm having the time of starting the engine longer (cranking time). I tried several times, leaving the fuel level reach the last quarter, with same result. Reaching that level of fuel the problem appears.
Another issue is that sometimes when the day is hot and the fuel level is not necessary below quarter, the starting time is longer too. It's a Santa Fe AWD 2.4L Automatic.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83k on it. For some months now, I have always been smelling strong fuel scent in the cabin. I took it to the workshop and was told it's my fuel canister so i handed money to the Mechanic to buy one to replace it. He called back to tell me he cannot get one to but can work on it by blocking the pipes or lines. I am not that convinced because i know the canister is there for a purpose so if he goes ahead to block the pipe or whatever, then it means something else can go wrong in the interim; but I'm in a quandary now and want that fuel scent to stop.
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