When I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe and there is a loud grinding sound when the car is in park and neutral. This noise doesn't happen all the time but i would say 50% of the time. When there is the noise it does go away when i put the car into drive or reverse.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2007 SF Ltd. About 6 months ago I noticed a tiny grinding noise coming from the front end. I took it to the place that installed the brakes and rotors and had them look at it. The said that they didn't see anything but the cleaned up the rotors and oiled the slide pins. That didn't seem to sold the problem, so I took it to the shop that does all my inspections and such. They mentioned that they didn't see anything and that if if was only first thing in the morning, it might be some very minor rust that is building and being worn off. Lately, the grinding noise has gotten much more consistent and loud. Both places said the pads looked almost new and other than the turning of the rotors, they looked fine. If it isn't the pads or the rotors, what could be causing the grinding noise? A friend of mine had the same issue but his dealer told him that his vehicle "just had noisy brakes". That doesn't see to be an acceptable answer.
View 3 RepliesI get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
View 2 RepliesI own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
I've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
Got a 2007 Santa Fe CM (Europe) with 160k km. I'm currently trying to figure out how to fix the clunk noise in the front of the vehicle. I am aware about the TSB 12-DS-002 where they recommend changing the drive shaft washer, but since that's a lot of work I want to make sure that this is really the problem.
The noise is not always there. Sometimes you can hear the clunk when decelerating, but not always. You can also sometimes hear a clunk when going from D to R. It sounds like a driveshaft has some play, and a change in the direction of the force causes it to slam into the other side. However, you can't feel it, so there is definitely not a lot of force behind it. You can only hear it.
However, I asked some guys to shift between R and D while I'm outside so that I can figure out where the sound comes from. However, murphy's law, it didn't made any clunk. And after shifting between R and D for like 20 times I felt bad for my transmission and stopped it.
The clunk is not always there, just sometimes. It doesn't really make sense to me, if its really play in a driveshaft it should be always there? Also the clunk started at about 155k km, now I got 160k.
Is there any further diagnostics I could do?
Just got a 2013 IS-F. Loving this car, but discovered an annoying issue. Grinding noise coming from front brakes when slowly coming to a stop below 5 mph. Is this normal?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa fe ( since new) 28k miles - I'm getting a grinding noise that seems to come from the front right wheel - noticeable only when doing a right hand turn or going around a roundabout.
So, Is this likely (from my terrible description) to be a wheel bearing problem....
2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.
Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this...
1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads.
2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads?
3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.
So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here?
I have a 2008 Sante Fe with 165K mileage. At times, not regular, when restarting the car we hear a grinding noise. Immediately we turn the car off and re start, noise goes away. Could this be the starter going bad? Dealership wants 400 to fix.
View 27 RepliesMy 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3L with 102,000 miles started making a grinding/ticking noise yesterday. It's hard to tell but it sounds like its coming from directly under the center console. The noise is directly proportional to the speed and if I put my hand on the shift selector, I can feel the tick vibrations. It drives and shifts fine. What it could be? I'm hoping it's not a transmission issue. I'm thinking something with the AWD connection to the rear wheels.
View 1 RepliesI have an intermittent grinding noise coming from what sounds like both front wheels, it sounds like metal on metal almost like something metal rubbing the rotor but I just put new pads on and the noise was there before as well with nothing touching the rotors but the pads. The sound will appear out of no-where at low speeds of 35 or below and will continue until I brake and slow down, just before I come to a compete stop the noise will stop with a slight clunk.
I can then drive away with no noise. I am pretty sure it is not brake related except maybe ABS somehow but was also thinking front axle or diff, also have read posts that are bearing related, but both at the same time?. It is the slight clunk before stopping that I can not figure out is related to. It is an 05 f150 xlt 5.4 super cab 4wd with 85k miles
I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
I just bought a 2006 (mk2) Santa Fe 2.2 CDX manual.Overall I'm pleased with the car but I have noticed over the past week of ownership a whining noise coming from under the floor area towards the front (I think). The noise only occurs around the 20mph mark ( no other speed) and is there whether I'm in gear or just coasting.The car has done 43000 (so not high mileage) has a full service history and only one owner prior to me. It does have a tow bar (which I wanted) just I case this may be relevant.
View 4 RepliesWhen driving I seem to be constantly applying pressure to the left side of my steering wheel to keep the vehicle from moving to the right. I've had the car aligned made sure my tire pressures were correct and had my mechanic check the undercarriage to make sure ball joints tie rod ends etc. are all in good working order. Despite all this the vehicle seems to want to wander right and I'm constantly putting pressure on the left side of the steering wheel.
View 4 RepliesThe car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
I'm having steady oil leakage on my S60. Coming from front right of vehicle, opposite turbo side. Took it to a mechanic and they diagnosed it as an oil hose leading from engine to turbo. Replaced it and it is still leaking from the engine. Hose showed no cracks or seal problems, so that wasn't it. Mechanic is taking the axle off to see if it is an engine block crack. If it is...welding aluminum is tough, I'm told, so it might need a new engine. Car has 101,000 miles and has had no other problems before this. Not sure I want to drop that much coin on a car that is getting older.
Could there be other culprits besides the engine block being cracked? I have been looking at some forums and see that PCV lines can get clogged, leading to an increase in pressure. Others mention the oil trap being plugged, and others mention a link between the cooling system and the oil line. The leak appears to be unrelated to the turbo, as that is dry, and is coming from the engine, but high enough that the mechanic can't see it without taking the axle off. What might make this problem occur besides a cracked engine block?
I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
View 9 RepliesI have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
I recently purchased a 2012 used Santa Fe. I've only had it about 2 weeks and just noticed something the other day. When I shut the vehicle off and exit, I hear a very low ticking noise coming from behind the front grill vents. It lasts for about 15 seconds and slows down until it stops completely.
I'll be the first to tell you that I know absolutely NOTHING when I comes to cars (other than how to drive one ). My guess would be that it sounds like some type of fan coming to a stop. If this is the case, I'm wondering if one of the blades could be bent, and how potentially serious of an issue this might be? Other than that, it drives great, with no other notable noises while in motion.