Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 - Check Engine Light Came On And Flashing
Mar 25, 2013
I have a 2008 Santa Fe with 64341 miles on it. This past weekend we had it inspected at the dealer. Drove it home, in the rain/snow, and it sat in the drive way for a day while it was raining. This morning when I went to go to work, still raining, the check engine light came on and was flashing. Went to auto zone to get the check engine light code, the said that it was a P0303 which according to them was a misfire in cylinder 3. So I brought it to the dealer to leave it and have them check it out. On the way their the check engine light started to flash, when I walked in and told the service desk that they said that it was a catastrophic failure.
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To start off with I am not car smart! I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L V6. Last year about this time (December) I had problems with the vehicle upon start up would be miss firing and the check engine light would come on. I would turn the vehicle off and restart and it would be fine and not happen again sometimes for a week and sometimes for months. I hooked it up to the computer and found that it was missing on the #6 cylinder. I had the coil pack replaced and that seemed to fix the problem (replaced spring 2011). About a week ago it started doing the same thing (December 1). Upon initial start up when the car is cold and the outside air is very cold it started missing again and having a rough idle. Would turn of the car and restart and would run fine but check engine light would come on.
Hooked it up to the computer once again and it read random misfire. This has happened twice now in two weeks with the same reading each time. Always when it is cold (engine and outside temp) and seems to reset itself when turned off.
I spoke with a mechanic who recently had this same issue with a different vehicle and after trying many things replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and that did the trick. He said it was a cheap start therefore i bought the part and now am looking to replace it. The only problem being i am car dumb and cant find it. I have done many searches and the diagrams i have found don't do me any justice. The past posts on here have given pictures of older models that dont match what i am looking at. It probably is right in front of my face. Any picture of a 2008 that will show the correct area I should be looking at? The vehicle only has about 57,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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I have had this issue on and off for a while. happened about 2 years ago just after i bought the car, and just started last week again.
The car will be running fine, then will start to buck while accelerating, shortly after the check engine light will start flashing and the car runs like it is on 1 cylinder. shut of and start again, light remains on( not flashing), car runs smoother, but does not accelerate like it should.
took it to autozone, they said it was giving the code for random mis-fire, and O2 sensor.
2 years ago the dealer said it was loose coils, and they fixed the problem, all the coils feel tight this time.
2007 Sonata ... 3.3 V6, 70k
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe, v6, and the check engine light and "ESC OFF" lights are on consistently.
I read the check engine light may be the gas cap so I replaced it but the light is still on. Took the car to Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was related to the cruise control.
I also read that the ESC OFF light may be due to alignment issues. I had an alignment done last Saturday but the light is still on. When they checked the check engine light they said it was related to the emissions. This was at a Firestone shop.
Any common cause for these lights to be on at 30,000 miles? I changed the transmission fluid also recently which the manual says to do at 30,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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At roughly 140,000 miles, my wife's '07 Santa Fe GLS has thrown a P0456 code. Does this code on a Santa Fe common?
It is "evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)." The good news, I guess, is that it is 'very small.' However, being small may make it more difficult to detect.
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I've recently bought used Hyundai SantaFe 2007 and the engine check light lit up. I've bought EML327 OBD2 scanner, it showed P1405 meaning "EGR tempereature sensor incorrect". Some of my friends says it has something to do with CPF filter and EGR valve. They think, i should clean both CPF and EGR. Car service told me that DPF (not CPF) filter cleaning costs arround 350eu and one service told me to simply take it out and reprogram car computer. As far as EGR valve cleaning goes, no service wants to do this. I don't really know much about cars, so my main question is what would be my next step in trying to fix this error.
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My 2010 Santa Fe is only 2 month old and has 2000km now the check engine light is on. Went to the dealer and found out the code is P200A -Intake manifold runner performance. And they just clear the code. What does this code mean?
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i have a 2008 santa fe with a 2.7 61,000 miles 2nd owner ,out of warranty. It started missing and the check engine light came on. I took it to a local parts store who put an analyzer on it an it showed the #3 spark plug was misfiring. I am hoping its the plug. I do my own work but havn`t been able to find a correct sequence to replace the plugs.
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I recently bought a Santa fe 2007 Limited 3.3L, it has 101500 miles. The issue is that when i run the scan it has 3 minor sensors that needs to be replaced but my biggest concern is that the check engine light does not come on in the dashboard even when i turn the ignition to on.
I need to know if there is a fuse that can cause this or a bulb in the dashboard that i can replaced for myself or if it is something else.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5 6, FWD, 54k miles, that has been having the check engine light go on and off. Recently with in the pass month and a half the dealership has perform the recall adjustment, changed the manifold intake assy, changed the ECM with all visits rendered a P200A code. After changing the manifold assy, check engine light was off and fuel gage was at a 1/4 tank. Stop by a gas station and filled up and the light comes on. Remove gas cap after turning off engine and secured gas cap as directed on the cap of one click and light stays on. Turning into the dealership for the 4th time.
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My 2008 just showed the light at 108,000 kms. Its a long drive to the dealers. My old Hondas would flash a code number in the instrument cluster if I shorted out a pin under the dash. Is there a way to do this with the Fe?
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My 2007 Sante Fe had problem this week. Took 6 attempts to start engine, then ran smoothly the rest of the night. The check engine light came on while trying to start vehicle.
Next day I changed the spark plugs but now find that the vehicle jerks when idling. Runs fine when going but jerks and bucks at stop lights and stop signs. Just added fuel injection cleaner to see if that may support the situation.
Engine light has come back on again since resetting. I have read several suggestions on internet regarding leak in vacuum line, Coil Pack damage due to faulty hose, even faulty 02 sensor.
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I have been having this same problem over and over again. Check engine light comes on with P2127 and P2106 codes. 1st time they said they needed to flash the computer. Worked fine for maybe 6 months and then again. While this is happening you cant go over 2500 rmp with it floored and takes forever to get up to 60-80 kph which is the fastest it will go. Sometimes after starting stopping 5-8 times it will be fine. The second time they replaced the gas pedal because the sensor was deemed bad. Now about 8 months later here up it comes again. This time I was pulling my boat and I thought I wasn't going to make it up the hill. I don't trust this car anymore especially for long trips. So anyway they updated the computer again, and then 4 days later up it comes again. Also inner tie rod ends I have replaced 3, just so you know I only have 52000 kms on this 2008.
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I have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
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Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
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