Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 2.7l Misfire / Flashing CEL
Jun 25, 2011
2008 GLS AWD, 2.7L w/ 66500mi. This happened on my way home from work this AM. Vehicle cold started normally, but I noticed a stumble as I idled out of my parking spot after a 12hr shift. All gauge indications looked OK. A few hundred yards down the road (and deep in the hood no less) I can feel an intermittent vibration/stumble and now I get the *FLASHING* (misfire) check engine light.
5am Sat morning and I'm already on the highway for my ~35mi ride home. The vehicle behaved OK, but you could feel a definite power loss, indicative of not firing on all 6. I hated to, but I had to drive it the whole ~35miles with the flashing CEL. I couldn't smell rich exhaust, nor did I notice any black smoke, etc.
Now I'm SOL. I have no warranty since I'm a subsequent owner (3rd owner of vehicle). Of course I lent out my generic code reader 2yrs ago and never got it back. My garage is currently upside down, tools packed away..etc. We just had a baby a few weeks ago and moved to a new house. Perfect timing.
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Motor missing has 61k. Code reader says # 3 misfire. got new plugs. 2 people say its probably the coil on #3. Its center in the back. Need step by step to replace the coil for #3 and plugs while I've got it apart and where is the best place to get a coil?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe with 64341 miles on it. This past weekend we had it inspected at the dealer. Drove it home, in the rain/snow, and it sat in the drive way for a day while it was raining. This morning when I went to go to work, still raining, the check engine light came on and was flashing. Went to auto zone to get the check engine light code, the said that it was a P0303 which according to them was a misfire in cylinder 3. So I brought it to the dealer to leave it and have them check it out. On the way their the check engine light started to flash, when I walked in and told the service desk that they said that it was a catastrophic failure.
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I have a cylinder 3 misfire and the vehicle is idling rough so I took it to the deal because I have a power terrain warranty. They're telling me I'll need a new manifold and plenum, coil pack, plugs, and gasket. Could this be accurate? I don't want to get screwed over...
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I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Accent that is giving me one heck of a headache. I keep getting a code for number 1 cylinder misfire. When you start it up it runs fine for a while then the CEL will flash and it will start running rough. As soon as I shut it off and restart it, it runs fine. I even experimented with it this morning on the way to work. It started running rough doing 60, I put it in neutral, turned the car off and then right back on, put it back in gear. It ran fine the rest of the way to work. I have swapped coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, and have even hang tested another ECM. Still number 1 cylinder misfire.
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Having an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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I had a flat tire and used the spare. I took my 2007 santa fe in to the shop to get the tire replaced and an oil change. The 'shop' put the spare back where it belongs.
Now my keyless entry locks the doors (audible) but does not flash the lights or honk the horn. The lights flash when unlocking and when pressing the panic button. It all worked correctly when I dropped it off at the 'shop'. What to look for?
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I am having an issue with the turn signals on my 2010 Santa Fe. When changing lanes to the right and moving the turn signal lever up slightly, the turn signals activate normally. However, when releasing the lever, the signal lights stop flashing (as they should), but the flasher clicks at a rapid rate and won't stop. I have to jiggle the turn signal lever to get it to stop clicking. I have checked all lights and the bulbs are fine.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. I was at a drive thru when my instrument cluster started to go nuts.. all of the lights came on then started flashing.. the RPM gauge was bumping around too.. for a couple seconds.. then it went away.. the next day I was on the way home and it started to do the same thing as the motor began to lose power while climbing a hill then the transmission couldn't figure out which gear it wanted to be in then I could press the gas all the way but nothing would happen.. the battery was completely dead. so I replaced the battery an about a week later it did the same thing. I had the alternator checked out but it was fine..
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Going down the highway the other day my '07 SE started to flash the battery and seat belt "dummy lights" in the instrument cluster. There was no discernible change in power, other lighting, or anything else that I can tell. The lights didn't seem to flash in any particular pattern either....
What this might be?.....other than gremlins?
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe SE. When it is parked in the driveway a red flashing light is seen coming from the driver's side dashboard light sensor. I've searched the owner's manual and can't find anything about what it means. What it is?
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I have a 2009 Sante Fe AWD: What it means when the battery and seat belt lights flash on the dashboard while driving? The headlights also dim slightly and sporadically as if there is a huge load on the system. No noticeably pull or drag while driving.
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My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
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About 4 months ago, I had the battery replaced since the car was not starting easily and they said voltage was not good. They also shimmed the ignition coil at the same time. I thought it was a bit early for a new battery but ok.
Last Friday I started getting a flashing battery light on the console but no other issues. Thought I would bring it in Monday.
Sunday I was driving on the highway and all warning lights came on, flashing, console died then came back on with a bunch of warning lights and then the car died. I managed to get off the highway with about 10% power and park in a lot. Car would not start once I turned it off, click, click, click, click like no power etc but rest of power in car seemed fine. Started fine Monday morning and I drove it to the dealership.
The dealership says the code was P2502 (Charging System Voltage). They are going to replace the Battery Sensor first and then if that doesn't work replace the Alternator.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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I know there is a tun of info on the spark plug problem on the f-150. Here is the problem I have and I don't know where else to look.
Cylinder #3 misfires
1. swapped coil with #2 cylinder and still throws #3 misfire code.
2. Changed the plug on #3 and still the same code #3 misfire.
Where to look next?
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I just bought a 2007 f150 4x4 5.4 triton with 69 thousand miles less than a month ago. Since then the transmission has been rebuild but come to find out a misfire will cause overdrive to act up, and it just recently started misfiring badly. It was throwing a code. 2 coils were replaced and still misfiring. It's not throwing a code anymore. No check engine light flashing or nothing.
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Truck has been taken care of, new Motorcraft plugs done 15,000 ago, never had any issues with truck until recently. Started bucking and kicking, threw CEL light, pulled codes. P0018, P0022, P0300, 305, 307 and 308. All of the misfires seem to be happening only on my left bank. I threw in a new camshaft position sensor just for the hell of it. This issue goes away and comes back intermittently. I drove it for a day and it did fine. Had power and then started it later to go home and it was misfiring, got to a stop light, cycled key and everything went back to normal. 2007 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4l Triton....116,000k....
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Im trying to chase down an engine miss fire on a 2007 with the 5.4L. It only seems to miss under no-load conditions, such as at idle and on a downgrade while driving. Acceleration and under a load it runs fine. New Champion plugs were installed at 135,000 miles. The truck now has 150,000 miles and has only been miss firing for the last 1,000 miles or so. I pulled the connector off of the coils one at a time to try and figure out which cylinder/s were missing. I thought I found the problem ones and replaced two of the coils, but it ended up not fixing the issue. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner at and around the intake to check for leaks, but found none. I have a scanner, but the check engine light is not on, so its not much luck.
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