Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Lower Control Arm Bolt Spinning Inside Frame
Nov 6, 2015
A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
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I just might be out of luck but wanted to check here first. My driver side lower control arm is dangerously rusted. I bought a replacement and was able to get everything undone except 1 of the 2 bolts that go into the sub-frame. The one towards the rear of the vehicle came out ok. The one towards the front of the vehicle just spins. I have read that it is probably a welded nut to the frame that has broken free and is just spinning inside the frame.
I have seen pictures and another thread on here (but for a santa-fe) where the owner had just drilled a 1 3/4" hole through the bottom of the subframe to grab that nut. Well mine is in a location that a 1 3/4" hole would almost be more than the width of the frame itself. So I thought maybe just a "slit" in the frame so I can get a open end wrench up there to grab the nut. I drilled just a test drill to see where I would land, sure that I would be past the end of the bolt. But I wasn't. I can see the threads of the bolt.
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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How do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
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I changed the Passenger side with no problem , the driver side bolt is hitting the transmission oil pan. I am thinking of loosening the mounts and try to jack the pan up to get that 1 clearance or worst case drain the transmission take the pan off remove the bolt and put in fluid in. If I drop the the transmission pan is there a filter in there? also how much transmission fluid does it hold.
[IMG] ....
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I have a 2003 santa fe AWD and my front tires are spinning just fine but the rear wheels wont move at all. when I try to drive the back tires don't move, like they are locked up.
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Recently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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I have a right front lower ball joint very loose and wonder if that ball joint press fits into the lower "A frame". And how is it removed ? What size fork tool needed?
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Occasionally, when braking at lower speeds (i.e. coming to junction) I get feedback through the pedal almost as if the ABS has kicked in....braking is not very effective when it happens. I can also hear a pump type noise going. If I lift my foot and re-apply it clears and normal braking returns. In fact, sometimes I can hear the pump noise going even before I brake....always at low speed (sub 15-20 mph) doesn't happen when driving at higher speeds.
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My daughter just bought a 2002 Santa Fe LX which is drooling oil all over the alternator and everything else in that area. I found what (I think) is the source (but you have to be a contortionist to see it.) I haven't been able to find any good parts identification photos of that area, but I think that this is the bottom corner of the lower timing belt cover.
I guess the repair will require going through the first several steps used when replacing a timing belt. I don't plan on going any further than needed to fix this leak, though, since the timing belt was reportedly changed about 25K miles ago.
Before I start taking all this apart, I have a couple questions:
1. What might be holding this corner out, away from the block?
2. Is the timing belt cover supposed to snap into place over a lip on the block? Or, should it be sealed with gasket sealer -- or something similar?
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Looking for the instructions on how to remove the lower power steering belt and replace it. We recently discovered the leak and I can't find any information on it.
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2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
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Was replacing the struts and front ball joints on my wife's '04 Explorer last week. I get to the last one (driver's side front) and the lower strut bolt seems to be frozen to the bushing. I heated it up and beat on it a little bit. Nothing. Just wondering for some other way or am I going to have to cut it out?
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I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
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Just got off the boat (offshore boat captain) and my wife has been using my truck while I was gone so it doesn't sit for forever. I made a quick trip to the hardware store for some materials and back to the house. Total drive time was about 20min. Noticed that I had a terrible shake like a weight got thrown off a wheel. When I got home and started looking at my tires I was on the passenger side front tire and noticed oil on the driveway. That's when I saw the drop.
Now I climbed under the truck and looked around and found oil all over the passenger header and starter and basically all down the passenger side of the motor. I popped the hood and and the valley was clean. Then I felt around the passenger valve cover and found a lower valve cover bolt missing. Second from rear on the bottom. My question after that long description is, can one missing bolt cause a leak bad enough to completely clean the oiled areas and start the truck and in about 1 min have clean oil dripping down? If so, when I get a bolt should I go ahead and replace the gasket?
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
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It has been raining, finally, in bay area, thats the good part. The scary part is that, today I was driving normal close to 15mph and took a left turn at a traffic light and the car spun out. This was the second time in couple of months. Both times it had rained for long periods, road was not water logged.
First time had spun out of control on right turn and second time on left turn. Tires are close to 30K old. Wheels aligned 6k back, rotated 1k back. And passenger side CV makes clicking noise occasionally. Do not remember, the CV making the noise around the time of spin out on both occasions.
2000 Passat 64Kmiles.....
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2004 santa fe, 2.7 L engine, temperature control doesn't work, it blows out hot air only. All fuses look good and I tried a new A/C heater control unit with no luck.
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