Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: E-Brake And Battery Indicator Light Came On After 10 Minutes Of Driving
Apr 14, 2014
I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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Last week while I was on vacation I had the battery light and brake light on the dash both come on at the same time. Just as these came on I was driving through some water on the road from a heavy storm that had happened earlier in the day. As I drove through, the lights came on at the same time and I lost power steering as well, after about 15 - 30 seconds both lights went off and everything was normal. It happened again later that day as well, same scenario, driving through some water, both lights came on, and no power steering. The lights once again went out after a short period, 15 seconds or so. What might be causing this? I was thinking maybe the alternator is going bad but I have not seen any other issues, lights dimming or things like that.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 with about 94000 miles.
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2002 santa fe gls v6. I recently brought the car used and it appears to be in great shape with 135,000 miles, however the car has issues which I'm hoping are minor. Here are my questions:
The brake light and battery light stay illuminated, can this be a bad alternator? Speaking of alternator there is a rattling sound coming form the alternator area, do the bearings go bad? If it is the alternator, does it matter if I use a 95 or 110 amp? Is the alternator difficult to replace?
There is intermittent jerking when in drive. Is it possible that a malfunctioning alternator not delivering proper voltage can cause this type of issue possibly affecting the system computer? Could the jerking be due to something else like crank position sensor?
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First I noticed that the parking brake light and battery light came on, which would indicate an alternator problem. I took it in, they cleaned up the engine, replaced a few hoses and said the alternator was fine. Two days later I'm driving home, I make it to my driveway and the battery dies. I was able to charge it up and dive it back to the station where they told me the alternator had burned out...
A few days later I notice my brake lights weren't working, but that was just a blown fuse.
Starting today, there is a high pitched whine when I'm driving. I can barely hear it when I'm idle, but going up to 20 or 30 it gets very loud, then kind of dies off. It definitely gets louder when I'm accelerating, vs going a steady speed. As I was driving earlier, the air bag light came on for a brief second, and I didn't think anything of it, until later tonight when I was driving home and it came on again, but this time it stayed on.
Santa Fe GLS, 135,000 miles
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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I've just bought a 2005 Santa Fe CRDI 2.0 Second hand, one owner from new, 60,000miles in 7 years. Just had it's 60,000 mile service. Until today perfect. Started car and no revs. but when I put in gear and moved the car, the revs kicked in and I was able to drive normally. Pulled over to side, into neutral, no revs FOR 1 2 or 3 SECONDS, then revved as normal, put in gear, and able to drive OK. Meanwhile, the MIL light came on and stayed on. I know what the hand book says but before I take it to our Hyundai dealer.
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For the past several months, I've noticed a gradually worsening flicker in my oil pressure indicator light. The light is off if I'm accelerating or downshifting for a pass or a hill climb, and it also goes off when I'm coasting or de-accelerating.
It's never steadily on, sometimes it's just barely visible, other times its flickering, fading, and brightening, but never at full brightness. It doesn't matter whether I'm at highway speed or at a slow speed, it's only a change in rpm that makes it go out.
I'm hoping, hoping, hoping that it's a problem with the pressure sensor, and not with the oil pump itself. Does the oil pump tend to fail gradually like that, it is it more indicative of a sensor problem? I'm hoping the latter, because replacing the pump is a major undertaking, one that I doubt I would do myself.
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what's causes the "vsc/trac" warning light and "vsc off" indicator light come on and off, together with the "brake" warning light while i'm driving?
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My Santa Fe is a 2004 V6, with a replacement engine. I told I am in need of a new A/C compressor but haven't been able to get it done yet.
This evening I heard a squealing noise. It suddenly stopped, and then my brake and battery lights both went on.
I'm guessing my serpentine belt went out tonight. But I also wonder if the A/C compressor is contributing to the problem?
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After change sparks plugs, I can quickly see battery and brakes light goes on. I can feel a lost of power when the light goes on. I've check all vacum hose and cabling and all seem to be ok.
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The battery light brake light and ac not cold all happened at the same time. The power steering & power brakes are working.
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The malfunction indicator light on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra stays on from the time I start the car and stays on while driving. I know that it needs to be taken to have the code read but I was just wondering what this meant and if it is a serious problem.
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Yellow brake light turned on while driving in rain, then for some reason turned off. I had read somewhere this may be an indicator of wear on brake pads. I have a 90 mi. commute round trip, I will check again if this turns on and stays on. For now, it is off. what could be causing this?
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I currently have a MK5 Jetta and my wife's van lease is up. I'm looking at picking up a 2001 Wagon 1.8t and giving her the Jetta. It checks out real well, the only issue is the oil pressure warning comes on after about 5-10 minutes of driving. Turn the car off and back on it goes away. He changed the oil when he got it a couple weeks ago, and didn't change the filter, he's taking it to his shop to have it re-done, and he was going to drop the pan and check the screen and pick-up and such. Has this been an issue or what may cause this?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6. There is a recurring issue where the ABS and Emergency Brake light come on, followed by the fuel gauge dropping to E, then all lights dimming until they go out. The car continues to run, but if you shut it off it won't start for about 30 minutes, then it start just fine with full power. The alternator and battery have been replaced twice in the last 10 months, most recently 3 days ago. The problem persists. I did find the right downstream O2 sensor to have broken wires which were causing a short. I replaced the O2 sensor and wiring harness, which cleared all engine codes, however the problem does still exist.
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2007 Sante Fe Limited original owner. 87000 miles, great car. Having a problem with battery light coming on and then going off, also seat belt light off and on but no sound. The other night my ESC light came on for a while. New battery, alternator and serpentine belt installed a few months ago.
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Yesterday I changed battery after that its seems malfunction indicator lamp stays on, i checked with hyundai service center they told to reset the program then diagnose the problem, then only come to know the issue or not issue they asked 20rial, i m wondering just changed the battery got some issue.
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I just installed new front brakes and rotors on my 2004 2.7L AWD, and since then the brake warning light on the dash comes on occasionally. Typically, it will turn on when applying the brakes. Usually for a longer period of time to a stop. (Rolling up to a stop sign/stop light, rather than slowing down for a turn). It will either stay on for about 15 seconds or not go off until I hit the brakes again. My e-brake handle is all the way down.
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I have a Nissan 98 frontier 4wheel drive 4 cylinder king cab. I just changed the windshield washer pump and since then the brake and battery indicator lights stay on. I disconnected the battery and that didn't work. The battery checks out and I could find the switch for the parking brake to check it. Sounds like a short in the wiring harness somewhere.
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This happened twice this month and each time was after driving and then turning car off to go into a restaurant to grab food real quick. Start car up back out, put car in drive and before getting out of lot loss of power followed by car stalling and only battery indicator comes on. Car starts right back up and seems to run fine. No CEL.....? I'm assuming I cannot scan car if no cel is on. I was thinking cam position sensor or fuel pump. I'm about ~1100 mi over for oil change which I am getting Monday.
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