Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Won't Start / Just Get A Click
Apr 16, 2014
2001 Santa Fe with a 6 cylinder. Died a while ago at CVS when my kid was driving it. I went there, jump started it, bingo all set. Drove it home. Shut it off, tried to restart, nothing happens. For safety's sake, since my daughter drives it, I bought a new battery. Installed it. Nothing but a click. Then winter came, and since we have an extra car, I left the Santa Fe to sit for a while.
Spring arrives, I install a new starter, charge the battery, turn the key, just get a click. Tested the old starter for giggles, it was fine.
Voltage at the hot terminal on the starter is 12.5v. Voltage at the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position is 12.5v. But still no start. I turned the crank easily by hand, so the motor is not locked up. I even tried hotwiring it but even that was fruitless.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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My problem is my 2001 Santa Fe petrol 2.7 L its done over 300,000 km one day it sounded like a click when driving, then when I started it cold in the morning it was missing [not running right] and had no power until it warmed up the spark leads are not that old anyway I put new spark plugs in it it seem to run a lot better but seems to be down on power on hills I think coils are ok? the motor not smokey but burn little bit of oil.
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For over 1 year I've had a problem with my 2001 Volvo S60 only giving a "click" when I attempt to start it. Often when I repeat multiple times, it DOES START, but more often than not, it doesn't (at least right away).
I've replaced the battery, starter/solenoid and starter relay. Twice I've had it to the local Volvo dealer, and both times the mechanics said the problem was associated with "corrosion" on the solenoid blade. Once the mechanic just "wiggled" the connector, and the other time the blade was sanded to remove potential oxide/corrosion.
After replacing the starter/solenoid, it STILL didn't start, so I replaced the wire leading from the fuse-box, thinking that "wiggling" the connector may have degraded the crimp on it.
Now the car won't start AT ALL. I've tested the line from the fuse down to the wire to the solenoid, and the ECM only now gives a "pulse", rather than turning ON while the ignition is turned to START. I'm thinking that some other input is telling the ECM to NOT CONTINUE CRANKING.
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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My fiance was driving my 2001 Accent, 1.6 manual trans, when it suddenly died. Now when I try to start it, I only get a single click. I also tried popping the clutch and nothing.
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My dad has an 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 with 100,000 miles. He was having trouble with hesitation and decided to change the fuel pump. All went well and the Escape ran fine for a couple of weeks. The other day, he went to start it and nothing happened. One click and the gauges ran up and stuck. Battery was tested at Auto Zone and checked ok.
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I am trying to fix the pesky hard start that I have. My car doesn't start right up anymore unless it is frozen cold. Other than that it takes 2-3 cranks sometimes 4 to turn over. That's annoying and embarrassing and I am trying to remedy it ASAP.
I have a check valve and Purge valve on hand right now. In my research it seems this is where I need to focus. I do have an engine code it was P0456 this time. I also have a gas cap.
I have a check valve because of the all too familiar cutting off early at fuel pump problem. I wanted to start there first since I am sure something needs repairing down by the fuel tank and since the problem is common. And hopefully the valve will work with the fill up and MAYBE with the start, if not that is where the purge valve comes in.
I got as far as get the 2 12mm bolts off and then couldn't make it any further.
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
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Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and every time after I pump gas into it it will not start. I try to start it five to six times and it finally starts but chugs and stalls unless I pump the gas. This lasts until I've driven for a few minutes.
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My '05 Sante Fe 2.7 doesn't want to start after fueling up. I have to hold the accelerator pedal down, like we used to on the old rods when we flooded the engine, to get it to start. I replaced the gas cap thinking that was the issue, but didn't fix it. I get no check engine light and with 340k miles, it sent out several codes a while back at the dealer. Could it be the fuel filter or pump?
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I have been getting a 2006 Santa Fe GLS A/T back on the road for friend who let it sit for almost 2 years because the bumper had gotten knocked off. I charged the battery to get the car to start and it started up OK, but the front brakes were shot completely. I then proceeded to replace the front brake pads and rotors, and when I went to start the car again I noticed something peculiar.
The car wouldn't start, or even attempt to (didn't here it cranking at all). I know the battery is good, and all the other components in the car turn on when I turn the key to A/C setting. I have the shift lever in what would seem to be Park, but the light on the console shows it is Reverse. It shows the car is in reverse when I have it in Park or Reverse, and shows Neutral when I have it in Neutral.
Before I did the brakes (which I don't believe to be related) it was being a bit fussy about switching gears and going into park, but it was definitely working.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with about 85,000 miles. I went to go to work today and it would not start. Just clicking. So I jumped it and it started right up. On My way to work I noticed all the lights were dim. I turned on the turn signal and all the gages went dead and the transmission started to shift rough. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. I just replaced the taillight, but drove it for a few days with no problems. Just thought I would mention that.
When I arrived at work, parked it and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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I have a 2004 Santa fe with the 3.5 auto transmission. It has developed a clunk on take off from a start. It will usually clunk two or three times like it is shifting hard, but it is not. I have had a mechanic ride with me (he was not sure what the cause was), a check with a transmission shop said they had never heard of an issue like that with this model, and had it checked for diagnostic codes (there are none).
They are not sure whether it is in the transmission or the AWD, and want to send it to a transmission shop to check it out (feels like exploratory surgery to me).
Hyundai TSBs indicate numerous Power Train issues, including TSB 195729 reprogramming shifting. The clunk will happen two or three times on take off and sometimes when accelerating from about 30 mph. The transmission does not seem to slip. Power is good. Acceleration is good. Shifting to selectronic works well.
Some forums have indicated similar sounds coming from the axels or bushings.
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I drive a Sante fe 2002 V6 24V front wheel drive. The issue is that the car will not start after it gets filled up with gas unless I press and old the gas pedal, any other times the car starts with no issues. It was suggested that I change the gas cap which I did and no change, I tried living the cap loose but the the engine wouldn't shut off even with the keys out of the ignition and in my hand had to stall it in order for it to shut off. I purchased a ODB2 plugged it in and no codes appeared.
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When I put in the key all lights come on, when I turn to start I get one click then nothing. The lights do not dim or turn off at all.
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It has a new battery, a new alternator, gas, oil changed. The lights inside come on, the radio will not come on, when you try and start it, it will not turn over, it acts as if its dead....A mechanic told me it might have an electrical issue a couple of months ago because I had gotten a new battery then, and it drove for 3 weeks and died... I don't know what could it be..
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We have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2003 2.7 V6 and sometimes it just won't start, the starter motor turns over fine and the battery is fully charged, and most other times it starts straight away. The engine purrs nicely when it's running.
I suspect it's an electrical fault, perhaps a faulty sensor? (Cam position sensor, crank position sensor, fuel position sensor?) What sensor would cause the car to start and run perfectly some times and not start at all other times?
Immobilser issue? Although I don't have a button on my key so maybe the car doesn't have one.
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Have a used sante fe with 190,000 miles that's having to crank a couple times to start change coils, plugs, wires and rear 3 injecters. still hard starting check the fpr and is good about to test fuel pressure but didnt see a valve to test fuel.
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