Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: When Turn The Key To Start - No Cranking / Clicking And Sound
Sep 17, 2012
This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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I had the head gasket replaced along with all the other gaskets that come in the kit. new radiator, water pump, thermostat and thermostat gasket. blew head gasket at 78,000 miles. So now that has been taken care of, slowly everything else is going bad. recently, i pulled up in front of someones house and my suv turned off. When I tried to start it again it made a clanking sound and would not start. AAA'd it home and pulled the timing cover where the source of the sound was coming from. Seen the tensioner pulley loose and the belt loose. got it back on tdc and still does not start. the cranking over sound is lagging and sounds whiny. thought maybe was out of gas so i got gas and now when i try to start it it still is winding but it backfired and there was smoke behind the upper intake and still wont start. It wants to start, but doesn't.
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My vehicle is a 2004 XG350L with 120,900. I've got a clicking sound at start-up, especially in the cold, coming from the cam cover. It goes away after the engine is running for a while. What could possibly be causing this? How do I fix it?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe with around 140,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but the last couple of years have been fine until this morning. I tried to start it and appeared to have full battery power, but it would not turn over. Instead of a clicking sound, it was more of a whining sound it made while it tried to start. I took the battery into AutoZone and they told me it was dead, so I bought a new one and replaced it after cleaning the connector cables. The same thing is still happening with the new battery. I've attempted to jump it as well.
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Drove my son's '01 Santa Fe and the AC is not cooling. The compressor seems to be working but there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash on the passengers side. The clicking is louder when you turn up the speed of the fan. The coolant does not need to be charged.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with about 85,000 miles. I went to go to work today and it would not start. Just clicking. So I jumped it and it started right up. On My way to work I noticed all the lights were dim. I turned on the turn signal and all the gages went dead and the transmission started to shift rough. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. I just replaced the taillight, but drove it for a few days with no problems. Just thought I would mention that.
When I arrived at work, parked it and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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I have a 1982 Chevy C30 pickup with an ignition problem. When it's really cold out, 15 degrees or colder, it won't start. When I turn the key, it feels like I'm turning a piece of clay. There is NO cranking, clicking or any sound made. The accessories won't work either. The last time this happened, I heated the ignition tumbler with a heat gun and the truck started. It started one time after that. Then on a warm day it started once; then wouldn't restart. I turn the key and nothing. It had to be towed. I wondering if the problem is the ignition tumbler, where I put the key, or the ignition switch, which is located near the bottom of the steering column.
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Has happened several time recently. Turn the key and everything works but the car doesn't turn over, not a sound. After a couple tries it works fine. Starter or switch?
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I have a 2007 santa fe. In the last year or so, when you turn the key to start the car - you get nothing... Like it has no electrical power, no sound, etc. However, it has never lasted more than 1min to an hour it varies. There is nothing you can do about it, just try it a couple of times, come back and try it again. It has never not started eventually. About 95% of the time, it starts within 10 min after you start trying it. However every now and again it is 10 min to an hour or more. Sometimes it goes weeks without doing it (starts the first time) and then you get a string of everyday for weeks.
The dealer can't figure out whats wrong, they need it to stop working completely. I am an engineer and have not been able to find any correlation (cold weather vs hot), not driving it for a while, turning off ac, lights, radio, using a different key. Also, during this time the battery has been periodically tested and has tested out fine.
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Sedan with 214,000 miles on it. I have a starter that is less than a year old, a new battery and the battery cables have just been cleaned and inspected. My batter and alternator tested fine. Occasionally (always in the morning) my car won't start. There is no noise, cranking or clicking. All the lights are operational with no dimming. However, today I put the car in neutral and it started right up (after not starting for three tries.)
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe with AWD, automatic, and 3.5L engine. Saturday I went to get in and key wouldn't turn. Tried to mess with shifter and steering wheel but no go, Wife got it to turn after I went to work. Won't start. Waited for a new ignition lock cylinder then replaced today. Still won't start. There is no chip in the key as far as I know and the kill switch thing is still plugged in. Jumping does nothing. Doesn't even try to start or do anything when I turn the key all the way. What am I missing here?
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All of a sudden this morning on my way to work my door chime starts going off, every time I turn left it seems. I have a 2004 Santa Fe ....
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I bought a 2004 Santa fe with the 2.4 engine not running. It will not get spark, it is getting fuel I can smell it strong after cranking...It has a new crank position sensor, I took the timing cover off to verify. Whoever put the sensor on cut the wires and soldered/ heat shrink them back together obviously because they didn't want to remove the timing belt. It Also it has a new ignition failure sensor, all fuses are good, there was a spare computer in the vehicle which I tried still no luck. I took loom off and looked at the harness and can't find anything.
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Several weeks ago I made another thread because I was having crankshaft position sensor problems and essentially that was due to a short on the sensors wires which had become exposed. I replaced the sensor and it still did not work until later trying another brand which solved the problem.
I also changed all six spark plugs, wires, and plenum gasket with OEM parts. I was able to get to the back three plugs by following this tutorial with the guidance of a friend who is a mechanic. After getting this done, the car has run way better and smoother.
However, today it has been raining heavily and I needed to run an errand so I went to my car and turned the key but nothing happened. All the dash lights turned on and appeared normal. My radio works, lights work, etc; but I can not get the car to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump turn on and everything else sounds normal, but still no crank. There are no sounds from the starter at all, it is silent when I try to get the car to turn over.
I took a look at the car and the coil pack seems dry, the plug wires are secure, plus we had put di-electric grease on all those connections. The negative terminal on the battery has a solid connection. I even tried jumping the car to see if maybe it was due to the battery, but again nothing happened.
This has only happened once before when it was raining, before I had changed the plugs and wires, but I was able to get it to crank over after about 4 minutes of waiting and contemplating getting a tow. I took a look at all the fuses and they appear to be intact.
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High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
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I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Plugs/Wires were done a few months back.
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My '08 2.7 has difficulty starting in the morning. It makes the normal cranking noises but won't fire up immediately. I typically let it try to catch for 5-10 seconds, pause, and try again. Then I wait a minute, try again, and everything starts fine. Then it'll start normally the rest of the day.
Pardon my ignorance, but isn't there some sort of compartment that holds fuel into the engine with a check valve that keeps it from releasing back into the tank? Could it be that this valve is leaking?
Or does it sound like I need a whole new fuel pump? I tried to find schematics, but had no luck. I tired hmaservice.com, but I'm not willing to install the Adobe SVG app (obsolete and security risk) to view the documents.
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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98 Passat 1.8T FWD
Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.
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When I try to turn on the car it cranks and seems like it is about to start but just keeps cranking. I have put dry gas, shoot starter fluid up the air filter and tried jumping it. I have managed to get it started but dies a second later. Not sure what to do, someone told me that it might be the fuel filter.
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