Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Valve Clattering Noise When Accelerating Fast
Mar 31, 2016
I have a 2003 santa fe with a 2.7 and it is 4wd.
It sounds loud during the morning and at idle almost like a diesel loud. It has a horrible timing climbing hills to the point where you can mash the peddle to the floor and almost redline the transmission from 4-5k rpm when redline starts at 6.
It has the CEL on and codes as a p044 and a p0112. I have a OEM oil filter in it and am running synthetic but it still has issues.
When accelerating fast it makes the valve clattering noise and once it catches up to speed like when it reaches the top of the hill it makes the clattering valve noise.
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I just changed my stabilizer link front right side and it did not solve the single clunk noise that I hear when accelerating and braking.. although it did solve the "multi clunk noises and creaking I get that is now gone away.. but this other single clunk noise what else could it be from it does it when driving straight and there are no clunks when turning. I must add that is that I can hear it and its a low pitched clunk... and is also felt in the steering wheel.
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2005 3.5L 105K. I had the timing belt replaced at 70K. Ever since then I get a winning noise in the right front when turning left and accelerating. Does not happen turning right. I took it into another dealer and he said it could be in the power steering. But why turning left and not right? He didn't think it was the CV joint.
I changed the PS reservoir in case it was a clogged screen. That did not work. Now I am getting a rattle sound on the right with the car in D or R when the car is first started, moving slow or not moving. The sound goes away in N. I don't know if these sounds are related or not. What could be causing these sounds?
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I have a 2001 Passat that I love. I have taken it to a VW dealer as well as two other dealers to try to diagnose this 'noise' problem. It is a noise that comes and goes, and seems to increase after driver fifteen to twenty miles after start. They thought it was the underneath engine cover but it is now back again. It sounds like a rattle when it is bad, also the passenger can feel the vibration under their feet. It rattles from 3 mph to 35 mph approximately. Can even hear it when coming to a stop.
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About a month and a half ago my Elantra while accelerating starting to make a fast ticking noise that was noticeable from usual with the radio and Air off but not terribly loud. The car still seemed to run the same.
So I took the car into the Dealer for my usual oil change and the recall for the automatic transmission and had them check it out. I was expecting nothing major. Turns out the service manager said a control armed failed as well as a piston and the damage was done. The will have to replace the entire top half of the engine at least and check the lower parts while taking it a part. They let me drive off and said to bring it back on Tuesday. Said he will drive to the rental car place and set me up in a rental while they fix it. Estimated to take 4-5 days while further checking into it.
It was noted as a "knock" in the upper part of the engine on the form I was handed after the car was checked out. They also said they would not bother doing an oil change on the car because of this issue. The car has a little over 27K miles on it.
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I've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with 2.4L 4 Cylinder engine. I have the inexpensive Duralast CV1139DL PCV valve but cannot figure out where to install it.
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How difficult is it to replace the valve cover gasket on a 2001 Santa Fe with a 2.7? Can I just do the 'front' valve cover? Are there any tutorials with plenty of pictures while doing this?
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I have a 2005 hyundai santa fe and the valve cover gaskets are leaking. We were able to change the one in the front but we cant figure out what to do with the back one. Need to find a video showing what to do...
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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So my 2001 SF GLS (220,000 km) has developed a quiet hiss on the RHS that's only present when I go above above about 2000 rpm while accelerating. Starts and stops instantly with the gas pedal. Maybe some crap in the fuel line? It doesn't seem to affect performance, but it could be a sign of something developing.
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After change sparks plugs, I can quickly see battery and brakes light goes on. I can feel a lost of power when the light goes on. I've check all vacum hose and cabling and all seem to be ok.
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Finally pulled the trigger and traded our 2008 santa fe SE to 2.0T with leather pkg, haven't had time to do proper intro and didn't want this to be my first post... We have less than 1000 miles and engine is ticking quite badly, not always and doesn't go away when engine warms up. Will take it to dealer next week so that they can diagnose it more in detail. And no, it's not GDI system, noise is clearly coming from valve or vct system.
I know it's covered by warranty, but this stinks big time and frustrates like... Not a good start.
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My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
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When I bought the car a few weeks ago, there was a p0507 code for a high idle in park, about 1300 RPM, but sometimes shooting up to 3000 when I shifted into park and then dying down. The code goes on and off intermittently. Not that big of a deal at first. Then I started noticing that if I revved it in park it would take forever to die down to 1300, and sometimes would fluctuate around 2000. I also noticed hesitation while accelerating around 1500 RPM and the transmission hunting for gears while accelerating, as well. I noticed my throttle cable was very slack so I tightened that, and bought myself a throttle position sensor, thinking that might be the problem, but didn't install it yet.
I was driving on the freeway yesterday in cruise control and then I started losing power while my foot was on the gas. With my foot on the gas, the throttle would cut out every second. I was basically one second of throttle, one second of no throttle, all the way down the highway. Almost impossible to drive. This continued even after I turned cruise control off. I limped my way to Home Depot and installed my TPS in the parking lot, and drove most of the way home with no issues, although I still noticed a slight hesitation while accelerating. Alas, I tested cruise control again and then the throttle on/off problem started again, then I could barely drive the thing, even after cruise control was off again. I'll be returning the new TPS to Autozone today, since apparently that's not the problem. What's my next move?
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2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
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2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
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My car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.
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I am the proud owner of a 2010 AWD Santa Fe with 1,600 miles. Over the weekend, I noticed a weird "humming" noise coming from somewhere in the vehicle (it sounds like possibly from the passenger side and from the interior of the vehicle). I only hear the noise when I accelerate. When I brake, the noise stops, and then picks up again when I hit the gas pedal.
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Just owned a 2011 hyundai santa fe AWD(48002 miles). At 50,100miles I start hearing this banging noise from the rear (quite loud) when accelerating. Usually occurs after 80km/h. Also occurs at low speed when you let your foot off the accelerator.
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