Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Transmission Hose Blown - No Gears
Apr 19, 2012
The wife was out in the Fe yesterday(2001 2.7 V6 Auto AWD) running at highway speed 80kmh before pulling up to a junction, when she pulled off again then the car came to a halt and lost all drive with engine still running ok. Luckily wife has the sense to switch it off. Tow trucked it home after she saw a puddle of tranny fluid under the car.
Any way it turned out one of the transmission hoses running from the cooler (right hand side hose that runs under radiator) managed to blow off the metal pipe.. don't know how, oem clamp was on and hose didn't split just came off! Needless to say this resulted in the tranny fluid quickly being emptied all over the engine bay and no gears.
So ive re attached the hose with new clamp and have drained what fluid was left in the pan..about 1 liter, and need to fill it up now and find out if it still works ok.
Now the manual says it needs 8.9ltr for a full fill but the question is will it of emptied the torque convertor as well so its completely empty or will it just of blown out the contents of the pan before stopping then just needing half fill.
What could cause a hose to blow off, they don't run at that high pressure normally, average hose pressure is normally 35-55psi from what I can find out so shouldn't blow off that easy should it.
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I have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
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I made a mistake, detached TPS from throttle, thought it was purge valve, then I put it back and today my car won't change gears, I messed something up, never had problems with my transmission. Santa fe 2003 3.5 ....
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My 2004 4 cyl Santa Fe the check engine light came on now it jerks in all gears kinda like its missing.
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2001 F150 Supercrew 5.4L ... Dealership unable to locate replacement pressure hose for power steering . I've returned 3 wrong parts. The hose in pic goes all the way up to the reservoir.
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Check out the pics, noticed car was overheating, let it cool down, got it home and found this broken hose (it was a crack in the hose before I broke it all the way taking the throttle body off). What is the part number for this hose and what else I should be looking for now that the car overheated?
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Codes currently on ecm: P0134, P2125, P1174, P0735 My 2003 Santa Fe 2wd 3.5l with 160,000 miles was driving fine, then all the sudden whenever I reach about 3500 rpms there's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from near or in the automatic transmission. As for the codes: P0134- I just replaced the o2 sensor with an oem part from autozone, so not sure why that's popping up. The connections look fine. P2125 and P1174- I'm trying to figure out whether the accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor needs to be replaced. I have a multimeter but don't know if that will be able to tell me which one is out. The P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio and grinding noise at 3500 rpms is what I am mostly worried about though. Could a transmission flush work with that?
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My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.
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2 wheel drive. No problems shifting until a few weeks ago when I put a chip in the truck. Then became a funny sort of half shift in between 1st and 2nd. Kind of a half shift and then a final hard shift into the next gear.
I have only driven the truck with the chip setting in economy by Gearhead which is 40hp. Well, all day driving in an economy but I have played hard with all the settings, smoking my tires and what not but never actually driven it into anything other than the economy.
Tonight it's done. Starting in the normal drive from a red light it was in between that funny shift and then it just fell back all the way with a hard thunk followed by it wouldn't shift at all out of first gear. Took it out of tunes, same difference. Found out when I take off in drive it won't shift on its own out of first but when I put it in second from the tree it shifts into second as normal, coming from the drive. Then when I start getting up into the rpm range that she normally should shift past second I put her back in drive and she shifts into third (and fourth?) normally. If I remove the overdrive it still immediately downshifts. When I turn it back on it shifts back up normally.
But again, starting from drive I have to put it into second and then into drive for it to shift. I still have reverse and it still kicks directly into first from the park and takes off, just doesn't shift from first to second on it's own.
I checked the tranny fluid, it's seemingly fine. Great red color and full. Does not smell burnt at all. No flashing light or anything anywhere either. No blinking on the overdrive light on the stick or no warning lights anywhere else.
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I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
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