Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Transmission Clunking When Upshift
Jan 10, 2013
Daughter bought 05' Santa Fe 4wd 3.5L, from original owner ,car has 47,000 miles on it, was maintained by dealer, and was obvious that car was well taken car of.
So first issue was throttle hesitation, which was mostly corrected by software update.
Now, transmission is acting goofy. If you step on gas heavily, it's as if the front wheels - or tranny -slip, then catch. Almost like a limited slip, then as it up shifts, you get a clunk. If it starts out in 2nd (I dont understand this ) then it's clunking going into 3rd.
If you are gently taking off, tranny acts normal. If you're cruising and punch it, it upshifts well, car goes nice.
Daughter called dealer who said update to throttle programming should have corrected any shift issues
So tech takes it out for ride, is able to get it to act up and states : issue in internal, and we need new tranny. 47,000 miles and need new tranny. Nice
I'm wondering if a fluid change and battery disconnect would work. Seems to me the the tech did a quick and dirty diagnosis.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Last summer my 04 SantaFe (140,000 mi, automatic) would feel like it was sticking and bumping when backing out of a parking space, then after shifting into Drive it would jerk and then make a huge thunking noise when applying the gas pedal. However, this would only happen sometimes, not all the time, and was not dependent upon the weather, surface, whether it had just been driven or not, etc. It would just happen when it happened. I brought it to the Hyundai garage and they replaced an axle and sensor. I continued having the same problem, brought it back to the garage and they replaced the viscous coupler.
I continued to experience the same problem after that, brought it back to the garage and they had the car for 10 days. I was told they had to get a mechanic in who was familiar working on 04 Santa Fe's and they determined the axle they replaced was bad, so they put in a new one. Everything ran great until I brought the car in early February for an "off balance ceiling fan" noise when accelerating. I brought the car to the Hyundai garage again and had the transfer case replaced.
Now the "clunking/grinding" is back when moving from R to D!!! So I brought it back to the garage again Monday and they said they cannot find anything wrong, and they are convinced it's just a symptom of the age and mileage of the car. However, it happened again today, but worse than ever before. This time it felt like it might not even move from R to D, and then it continued the grinding and bumping after accelerating and then the car felt "sluggish". I am convinced something is really wrong, although they assured me at the garage that the transmission is good, the axle, sensor and boot are all good etc. What else could it be?
View 1 Replies
I figured out what was causing my small clunking noises in the front end.. They were faint, but you could hear them at low speeds..
Front sway bar bushes and end links.. Replaced mine with auto7 bushes and moog endlinks.. They didnt "feel" loose or wobbled but replacing these parts got rid of my clunks..
Only downside was the bushes are really hard to replace, need to remove the rack, subframe, etc..
My car has about 150k miles, and the bushes were a little oval..
View 8 Replies
2004 Santa Fe, clunking noise in drive or reverse. checked brakes and cv joints, replaced drivers front and still making the noise. Transfer case was a little low on fluid but not much. Put up on stands and turn wheels with no noise. Put in drive or reverse while in the air and rear wheels sit still. It is a 4wd so I would think that all 4 tires would be turning. While in the air the front both turn and no noise is made.
View 18 Replies
2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
View 3 Replies
I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
View 10 Replies
I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
View 3 Replies
About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 Passat Wagon with a V6 and automatic.
When in "D", the transmission refuses to upshift sometimes. Moving to the tiptronic gate and manually upshifting works, so I think it's a control issue and not something mechanical with the transmission.
It also downshifts inappropriately on occasion. For example, when lifting off the throttle and coasting down just to lose a little speed, it downshifts and I get engine braking. I'm not looking forward to this in the snow. Once again, I can manually upshift just fine when this happens.
View 12 Replies
Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
View 2 Replies
So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
View 7 Replies
On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
View 1 Replies
Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
View 3 Replies
1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
View 9 Replies
Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 Santa Fe automatic transmission that sometimes will not shift out of 1st gear. Sometimes it works great. I took it to my local garage and he told me that it needed a transmission control module and to take it to the dealer. I took it to the dealer and they said nothing wrong with it at all. I brought it home and still some days it works great and some days will not shift out of 1st gear. What part needs replacement?
View 2 Replies
I have an 02 AWD 160k miles with a 2.7l V6. The car was driving fine then the transmission just stopped, no noise, no bucking just stopped as if it were shifted to neutral. Fluid is good, no codes. when the car is started and put into gear the RPM's drop as if its going to move but nothing.
View 7 Replies
The other day I was driving my Santa Fe. I noticed the RPMs went up and then the car started slowing down, so I pulled over. Since then the car won't drive. Engine starts up but the car won't move at all. When I push the gas pedal I hear the engine revving, but no movement in drive or reverse. No check engine light, and I checked the transmission fluid, looks and smells good. I checked and it has no transmission pressure. I verified by removing the transmission cooler lines and shifted the truck in all gears. Nada. Could it be the filter, a sensor or the torque converter? Or am I looking at having to replace the whole transmission?
View 21 Replies
I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4L (automatic) with 200,000 miles. Auto shop is recommending I change my transmission fluid. I've heard that changing the transmission fluid on a high-mileage vehicle is potentially dangerous. I haven't noticed any symptoms of "bad" transmission fluid.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2005 Santa Fe which I brought brand new in 2005. After 48,000 the transmission was shot, the fluid was black it was a mess. I had the tranny serviced at about 30,000 miles and thought everything was ok. My dealer replaced the tranny under warranty and said it failed, thats it. Ok.....64,000 miles later the second transmission just failed. Keep in mind the dealer serviced the transmission twice and now this one is shot. Being out of warranty, Hyundai wants me to pay for a new one, I opted to get it rebuilt at a local shop. My question is other that why aren't these transmissions lasting, am I alone or this quite common.
View 2 Replies
I have an 01 and 02 santa f. I took the v6 out of 01-and put in the 02.put new gaskets on engine new timing belt etc. Got engine in and runs like a champ. But the tranny which looks new I assume its been replaced. It starts out in 2 or 3 all the time want shift into od. Reverse works. So I found one plug dangling I couldn't figure out where it went then i found it. It plugged up on top of tranny. Well now it starts out in first and shifts through all the gears. Drove it down the rd shifted fine. Turned around and put in reverse then when i went to drive it jerked real hard. Shifted out fine so I went to floor it to make it kick down and it jerked again. This time it was hung in 3 or drive cause when I pulled into my driveway it was in high gear and u can put it in manual mode and the light only goes to second and d when it acts up like this. So i killed the car started back up and know it will go into first in manual mode and shift out and do fine?
View 3 Replies
