Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Tire Losing Pressure
Mar 16, 2014
Long story short, I have a tire that is losing pressure. In two months it went from 30PSI to 10PSI. I caught the tire right before my trip to Vegas and filled it back up to 32PSI and today it was at 25PSI for a total of 22 days. I figure I am losing around .3PSI a day. Took it into Sams where I bought them and of course they couldn't find a thing wrong with them. Sprayed them with soap and water and dunked them in a trough but no bubbles. They weren't going to do anything, but I talked them into putting a new valve stem on and at least taking the tire off the rim and taking a look. I realize it could be a dynamic problem where it only leaks while the tire is rotating. Is there anything else that I'm not thinking about verses having a leaky rim?
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A few days back, the low tire pressure light came on, and I checked that the LR tire was only about 20 psi while the other three were ok (>30). I inflated LR to ~35 psi and the others as well. The warning light disappeared.
Today while I was filling gas, I checked the LR, and it is already down to 30 psi (hot) whereas the other three were about the same.
Is this just a small leak/puncture or something else (valve stem, etc)?
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My 2002 SC430 is driven 2 -3 times week and has 30K on it. January '08 I replaced run-flats with high-end non-RF Michelins sugg'd here. Ever since, tires have lost pressure. So far, I was told front pass. rim (orig. factory chrome) had a crack, that was fixed, but tire still loses pressure. Rear Driver's tire supposedly punctured at 2 weeks & replaced..but still loses pressure. All tires & wheels were checked & rotated, now 2 still leak in new positions.
According to Dealership & Tire place familiar with SC430's, my Valve stems and sensors are fine (TPMS works fine), tires are good, rims aren't cracked, but tires go soft. Yesterday a Tire place that does only Lexus & Toyota just told me "invisible corrosion" on rims makes moisture collect where tires seal to rims and this causes slow leak!?
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We have a 2003 Sante Fe 2.7l that looks like the tranny is losing the clutches. Not ready to give up on it as the engine is still strong even with 176000 miles.
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
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My 2004 Santa Fe (4cyl) started sputtering and losing power, like it was about to stall out, then all of a sudden it'll regain power and drives fine. When the stuttering happens the check engine light comes on, but then when it regains power, the check engine light goes out. This seems to happen at highway speeds because I can't seem to recreate the issue driving around the neighborhood. I also can't scan for codes because I cannot get the CE light to come on (when I want it to). About 2 years ago I took it to the dealership for similar symptoms, with my car eventually stalling completely out and I couldn't get it to start back up. The problem then was crank shaft position sensor, which I had replaced.
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6. I am experiencing an issue of losing power as I travel up an incline and it doesn't matter how much I depress the gas pedal. The codes that I am receiving are P0101, P0174, and P0171. After reviewing the codes and doing some research I'm thinking it is either the mass air flow sensor or the fuel pump, which can tend to fail in vehicles 10 yrs or older depending on vehicle mate Nance (i.e. constantly running the tank down to almost empty).
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
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I HAVE A 2001 10 CYL EXCURSION with Pirelli Scorpion 265/75R 16 AT tires Istill can't get a good answer on correct tire Pressures-door plate says 38/45 tire wall says 80psi max. I've seen guys post 55/65 for non towing then maybe 60/70 for towing. Currently my steering kinda sloppy-inflations were messed up 55-52 front and 50-47 rear- also manual hubs somehow were in lock pos.Just had ball joints done but mechanic said didn't need alignment.
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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I bought a used certified 2012 Toyota Camry LE with 6000 miles on it directly from the main and larger Toyota dealer two weeks ago, I chose to get original tires inflated with nitrogen which is a service provided by dealer.
Right now I'm realizing that the display screen is not showing me the tires at all, just the trip and gas consumption stats.
Before taking the car to dealer and get in line is there a way system may be reset so tires and of course pressure data are properly displayed?
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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Does the prius v TMPS shows you the pressure in each tire or just give you a warning when one of the tire is low. How many MPG do we gain if we over inflate the tire to the max possible.
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My low tire light is on my 2009 VW Sportwagen SE 2.5. The tires are inflated properly even the spare tire and yet the light is still on.
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Do cold weathers cause tires to deflate? On my way to school today I noticed the tire pressure light. I've had the car only for 3-4 weeks. Never had any issues with it.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6cyl, 4L, 33K miles. When its started up, the message "Tire Sensor Fault" appears along with the low tire icon flashing (steady light after ~30 seconds). I can then press the reset button on my dash to clear the message. However, the tire light icon stays lit. I've checked and re-checked the tire pressure in all the tires (spare included) and I'm right at the recommended 32-34 psi on all the tires. No signs of leaks at all. I'm assuming one (or more) of the tire pressure sensors have gone bad and there's no way for a garage (or myself) to identify which one or repair this. Should I assume a trip to the dreaded dealer for this problem ???
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When i press the brake pedal the brakes seem to start working ,but they dont apply enough pressure to actually stop the car from speed , it's just happened car was fine yesterday , also i've noticed when i start the car , and press pedal with my hand there is a air leak noise behind the pedal , and a faint low pitched tone noise as well , its as if the servo isnt working fully.
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For the past several months, I've noticed a gradually worsening flicker in my oil pressure indicator light. The light is off if I'm accelerating or downshifting for a pass or a hill climb, and it also goes off when I'm coasting or de-accelerating.
It's never steadily on, sometimes it's just barely visible, other times its flickering, fading, and brightening, but never at full brightness. It doesn't matter whether I'm at highway speed or at a slow speed, it's only a change in rpm that makes it go out.
I'm hoping, hoping, hoping that it's a problem with the pressure sensor, and not with the oil pump itself. Does the oil pump tend to fail gradually like that, it is it more indicative of a sensor problem? I'm hoping the latter, because replacing the pump is a major undertaking, one that I doubt I would do myself.
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I'm driving a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83,000 miles on it.
Had it in the shop (dealer) a couple of weeks back for some work on the transmission. While there, I had the dealer perform the work for Recall 090 (corrosion of rear trailing arm). Since that time, there has been a clicking noise coming from what I believe to be the right rear wheel (it is definitely coming from the right [passenger] side). The noise sounds like metal rubbing up against metal, for lack of a better description. The noise is directly correlated to wheel rotation... the faster I drive the vehicle, the more frequently it occurs; the slower I drive, the less frequently it occurs.
The noise is very noticeable, and I am certain that it did not exist prior to my latest visit to the dealer. I am considering taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic this time, as the dealer repeatedly tells me that they aren't to blame, or I end up leaving the dealership with more problems than I arrived with.
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I'm having an obvious tire pressure loss on my rear left tire. Fill it up and in a few days I get the warning. I don't see any holes or anything. My question is this. Whats the cheapest route to go about this? I bought the car in June, so wondering if warranty would even cover tires? Is it worth a try? Not sure if I should take to the dealer to check it out, or just a town fair tire place.
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