2.0 crdi santa fe stopped and engine management came on took it to dealer and they said no code to read ..got second opinion and the guy read the code and came up with 001 ..p1181 int.air var ctl.sol ..he also said that he thinks it an injector problem rather than this ...the car will start with a tow and drive a short distance and stop again.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with a strange gas pedal problem. Randomly while driving the gas pedal will stop working. If I depress the gas pedal all the way when this issue happens it's as if I'm doing nothing. The car just goes to ideal. When I let off the pedal and reapply pressure it's like nothing ever happened. The car has 123k miles and an automatic transmission.
View 9 RepliesMy 03 GX470 has an issue where the windshield wipers will randomly stop working. It doesn't matter what setting they are on, auto, low, high, they work fine for a few minutes, then just stop mid stroke. They sometimes start back again on their own after a minute or so, but usually, I have to turn the switch to other settings a few times, to get it going again. Inevitably though, the wipers only work for a few minutes more, before stopping again. What could be causing this?
View 5 RepliesMe and my fiancee have a 2013 Camry SE and we've been having issues with our fuel gauge... It randomly will just stop working... First time it happened she just got in the car from work and it was at empty. When she got to work it was at half a tank... It took about 20-25 minutes of driving for it to slowly reach back to half a tank.... What could/would cause this malfunction?? And then today on her way to work it did the same thing..
View 2 RepliesOn my first trip with the new Santa Fe. After 400 miles today, while just 50 miles from Vegas, the A/C blower quit working. It sounded like it was blowing as normal but almost no air was coming from the vents. Being just 50 miles out I pushed on.
After arriving home (only 98 today luckily) I turned off the car and unloaded. After about 20 minutes, I started the car and the A/C and blower seemed fine. I looked at the ground and about a pint of water (at least it looked and felt like water I did not taste it) seemed to leak after I started it from the center of the car about even with the front door. What happened? Any cause for alarm?
So here's whats going on now. My girlfriend has had her car for about 10 months now, and besides the last 3 weeks it has been a perfect car. In these last 3 weeks though her car has been a real pain.
Her car randomly dies while its being driven/at a stop. It doesn't matter how fast she is going or how long she has been at a stop.
It first started 3 weeks ago when i was driving it to the mall with her and the car started to slow down on the freeway, going about 65. I pushed on the accelerator and got no response. After about 5 seconds all power came back and we were off. At no point in time did the power inside or the headlights dim/turn off.
Next time it died it wouldn't get going again. Battery was fine. My first assumption was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine.
A couple days later the car did the exact same thing, except this time the battery was completely shot. Took a look at it and it was almost 8 years old. Went and replaced it.
The following day it died again, this time it was the battery again but since it was a brand new battery we knew it couldn't be the issue. So i went ahead and replaced the alternator. Turned on the car and it ran perfect. While it was running i even disconnected the battery just to make sure the alternator could still power the car, no issues.
A few days went by with everything working perfectly fine, not a single issue that is, until tonight. As my girlfriend was coming to pick me up her car died. She was coming up to a stop light and starting to slow down when her car lost power again. All the lights and radio stayed on but the car died. Battery light came on as well. I walked to her car and told her to try to start it. Fired up right away and ran fine like nothing ever happened. Drove it to my house without another issue.
At this point i'm stumped. The CEL is not coming on, which is a bummer because that would make this much easier. I cleaned off the terminals for the battery and the connecting wires (which weren't dirt or corroded).
2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
View 5 RepliesEngine will die randomly. After sitting for half hour it will restart. It has been to the dealer, it sets no codes but when it dies all lights on dash come on just like when you first start car. It has 75k on it timing belt replaced new plugs and wires. Dealer kept it 2 days and could not replicate the problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 2.4l petrol (and an LPG gas system) model that is becoming impossible to drive due to the engine cutting out. I had all the plugs changed an injector thingy and some leads last week when it first started to cut.
At first we thought it was the gas system because it was running on gas the first few times it died. I've just taken it out to road test the petrol (with the gas turned off) and it did it again. It happens mostly when at idle (traffic lights) but has also cutout twice at speed on the main road. You can't restart it, it turns over for ever and doesn't fire up...but I did bump start it once. The next day it will start as if nothing was wrong. I haven't been able to access whether any lamps come on (mainly due to being in panic mode at some junction).
So my questions to the experts are based on the 3 main culprits mentioned elsewhere:
Alarm or immobiliser.- is there any way to disable the alarm/immobiliser so I can check if it is that?
Fuel and fuel pressure systems. - can I assume that because it does it on both fuel types that it isn't fuel filter/pressure pump like?
Cam sensor. - I have a mechanic friend who repairs everyone's car at work (600+ people and I think he's mended a good half of those)..is the fitting of a cam sensor only doable with some strange specialist tuning/timing equipment or is it a simple case of unscrew, replace and good is?
My wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
So my wife's santa fe will randomly get stuck in 3rd gear and not shift up or down (automatically or manually). It does not appear to be slipping as it speeds up slows down fine. The check engine light is on but have not read the codes yet.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 santa fe and the blinkers are not functioning but the hazard lights are working fine. I checked the fuse and that is fine. Is there someway I can take apart the handle assembly where the switch for the blinkers are? Also, sometimes they would work and other times they wouldn't so that seems like a loose connection somewhere. The indicators for the blinkers on the dash do not work either so there has to be a problem giving power to the switch.
View 8 RepliesHaving problems with the auto-up feature on your windows? Mine seems to randomly stop working from time to time. Only the drivers side has the problem. When the truck was new the dealer re-programmed the computer and put a new window switch in. That worked for a while but the problem keeps coming back. I can easily do the re-programming sequence however the problem always comes back. I have a 2012 Lariat SCREW.
View 13 RepliesWhen i press the brake pedal the brakes seem to start working ,but they dont apply enough pressure to actually stop the car from speed , it's just happened car was fine yesterday , also i've noticed when i start the car , and press pedal with my hand there is a air leak noise behind the pedal , and a faint low pitched tone noise as well , its as if the servo isnt working fully.
View 2 RepliesOk here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe with approximately 126000 miles on it. The problem is, the majority of the time, the car runs great but sometimes the check engine light will come on and then a short time later, the car will start to basically shake when I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. So basically, it is doing this while in Drive, but if I put the car in Park, then it stops shaking. Not sure why it does this and like I said, it will do this and then after driving it for a while, the check engine will go back off and it doesn't do any of the shaking. Seems to always come back though. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe LX with 214,000 miles on it. In general, I am having two problems which are most likely related. I would like to get opinions on what is causing the problems, how to fix the problems, and what the cost might be for the fix. This is an older car and I don't want to bring it to a mechanic to just do searching.
1. RPMs fluctuate quickly at slower speeds in town stop and go traffic and while parking in Drive or Reverse. Fluctuation can be between 1000 to 2000 and 3000 RPMs back and forth.
2. Car stalls while sitting at stops when in Drive. When car stalls, RPMs have suddenly decreased to 0 (zero).
3. RPMs fluctuating and car stalling typically occur after I have made my first stop and have turned off the car.
There is also a Check Engine Light Code: P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. I changed the vehicle speed sensor a few months ago.
Here are the details of what has been happening, when it happens, and what I have tried.
- When RPMs fluctuate, the car slowly accelerates and slows down and I can hear revving high and low. This happens when the RPMS fluctuate just a few RPMs around 1000 and when the RPMs are fluctuating up to higher RPMs.
- After the car has been driven for about 45 minutes and car is at slower speeds, RPMs will fall to zero while at stop and in Drive, and the RPM fluctuation will begin.
- RPMs jump to 2000 or 3000 and stay there but do not fluctuate when car is put in Park and Neutral.
- When car is in Park and at 2000 or 3000 RPMs, car takes a few extra seconds to turn off.
- Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal and will accelerate up to 40 mph.
- Car will sometimes lurch at slower speeds of 15, 25, and 35 mph when RPMs are fluctuating or when the gas pedal is pressed.
- When RPMs are fluctuating and at 1000 or higher and I am pressing the brake to slow down, the car fights in Drive and in Reverse.
- RPM fluctuation does not occur at interstate speeds.
- A couple days ago, when I was at interstate speeds of 60 to 75 mph and pressed the gas pedal, the car would stutter and jerk.
- RPM fluctuation and stalling primarily do not occur when the car is started at the beginning of the day or when the car has been off for several hours.
- Twice In the last week the RPM fluctuation and stalling occurred even after car was not started for several hours and after only about 5 to 10 minutes of driving in town stop and go traffic.
- Sometimes car stalls when I'm at a stop and slightly press the gas pedal to start driving.
- There are times in town traffic when the car is operating normally and is at 750 RPMs at stop, then the RPMs suddenly decreased from 750 to 0 (zero) and the car stalls.
- From Neutral, sometimes when I simultaneously put the car in Drive and press the gas pedal either by feathering or forcefully pressing pedal 3/4 to the floor, the car would have a delayed reaction to accelerate but would not shut off.
- After car has stalled, if I try to start it right away, the car cranks but does not start for about 5 minutes.
- The time between stalling and being able to get the car to turn back on has increased over time from starting up at first crank to not starting for 5 minutes.
- If I let the car sit for 3 to 5 minutes after it has stalled, the car starts up but takes a couple seconds to start while pumping the gas pedal.
- Issues have been happening since November but are getting more frequent.
- Stalling is happening more frequently and within minutes of each other.
I have a 2004 4 cyl. Santa Fe. The stop/tail light burnt out. Replaced it but still not working. Checked to see bulb was in correctly. Checked wires and bulb holder. Still not working. Back up and turn are working. Could it be a fuse?
View 3 RepliesI noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2004 Santa Fe GLS with the 3.5L. The car has a seldom jerk when at a stop after decelerating, and occasionally it feels like the driveline is binding when backing out of the driveway in a turn. The symptoms are consistent with TSB 04-40-003 (attached). As the TSB directs, I have acquired a 4WD Electronic Control Module (ECM) with the updated design.
The TSB suggests I can just replace the module and expect everything to work. However, I have found information that I should use GDS to reset the transmission adaptive learning. I have also seen mentions of engaging a special setting in GDS if my car has an immobilizer. Obviously, I don't have GDS. Is there anything I need to know or is it really just plug-and-play?
I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
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