Came home from a trip and the Santa Fe had been parked for 3 days. No starting issues prior, but went to move it and no go. When I turn the keys something "spins" but the starter does not engage. 99% sure it needs replaced. 02 GLS V6 AWD
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
View 1 RepliesMy starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
I have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
View 14 RepliesI am back with the same issue as the last 2 batteries. Ever since the wife has had this car, the last 2 batteries would spin the starter, but it wouldn't run. Bought batteries and it fixed it.
But damn, now her battery is only 13 months old. Is it true that if the battery gets just week enough that the motor is starved for enough juice for it to run?
Last dealer couldn't figure out why she needed a battery when the one she replaced was good. I told them do it anyway, and it worked, last year.
She called the dealer today and their saying its the alternator is pulling it down. I say BS. Its not a dead battery, its a temperamental motor, I guess. I dont know what to do. This is getting old.
I have a 2011 sonata SE w/ 30K miles, the starter failed on me.
The motor would spin but would not engage the gears b/c of the solenoid or the rod malfunctioned.
They towed my car to the dealer for free and it was replaced but I'm concerned because the towing guy told me he towed quite a few Hyundai's b/c of this problem.
I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
View 12 RepliesThis is about a 2011 Sonata. I picked it up for my son.
The car has been running really well for the past few months, then out of the clear, when trying to start the car, the starter does a quick spin-free, then a short whine. The battery voltage is at 13.1 prior to attempting to start.
The car finally started under a jump from another car, but only after several turns of the key. And with each turn of the key, was the spin-free, then short whine, like described above. It's like the starter had a dead spot -or several dead spots- and I caught it just right, and it started.
I have the battery on an overnight charge. It sound like the starter to me. What do you think? And if it is the starter, how big a deal is it changing it out?
I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
View 2 Replies2003 santa fe, automatic, front wheel drive, 4 cylinder.
I had problems with the starter not cranking. took it off to the auto parts store and tested bad. I bought a new one there from called a tough one brand name. put it in, and it grinds the flywheel and sounds like it does not engage the flywheel enough. to it back to the auto parts store, and tested it, and it seemed like the gear did not shoot out like it should. they replaced it with a second starter now that tested good before i left the store, put it in and it does the same thing.
1. Can this type of starter not throw the gear far enough into the flywheel ?
2. Can a voltage drop to the starter cause the same thing. Basically is it possible my wires are bad not throwing enough juice to throw the gear all the way forward.
I pulled the starter out and jumped it with the battery and it seemed to work fine, but on the car it just grinds.
2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
View 1 RepliesI have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
View 1 RepliesI just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
View 8 RepliesI went to leave today and found the 2012 Accent (auto trans) won't start. The starter doesn't even try to engage.
Battery voltage was 11.5 both when turning the key to start, and when just in the accessory position.
I put jumper cables on it from my truck and left it for 5 minutes. Voltage was now 13.5 but it still wouldn't try to crank.
What to easily check? I plan to call the dealer in the morning and have them come get it since I only have 17,xxx miles on it.
So yesterday I drove to my friends house b4 work. My car started up just fine no problem. I was at his house for maybe an hour and as I was going to leave I tried to start my car and it was dead? All my lights work got a jump. Still nothing so today I took my starter off and had it tested( fail). Paid for a new one and put it back on. Hooked everything up. Went really smooth. But went to start it and it won't engage the flywheel? Am I missing something?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
View 9 RepliesDeveloped a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.