Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Starter Motor Scream As Plunger Turns Transaxle Flywheel
Jan 9, 2015
I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
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I have a 96 f350 that I just replaced the batteries on and now when I go to start it does not hardly turn over. Starter just barely turns motor over and definitely not fast enough to start truck. Battery connections are tight and starter was replaced about 4 months ago.
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I am beginning to get a rusty colored leak at the interface between the transfer case and transaxle on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7l 4wd. There wasn't any leak less than a week ago. What would make the transaxle and transfer case start leaking at the same time?
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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I just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
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This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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The starter in my '93 Dakota was dying (usual signs of worn brushes) so I replaced it with a new one from AutoZone. The starters looked the same, and after calling back to double check the part #, the store swears it's the right part. However, when I engage the starter, it spins but the pinion gear doesn't engage the flywheel. I can't see how I could have installed it wrong - the two bolts seem to have only one place they can go.
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I have a 1992 for explorer XLT 2-wheel drive Automatic 4.0 engine. The starter started grinding against the fly-wheel. Changed the starter and the same thing happened. There is no shim for this starter. I took it down and checked the flywheel--as much as I can see through the starter mount hole and the teeth on the flywheel are great. There is only the slightest point of impact where the starter is just grazing the flywheel.
I also grabbed the flywheel to look for looseness, thinking it might have broken and/or warped and I just can't see where it broken because of the small hole. It's solid! It's as if the whole thing just moved back about an inch and a half... I texted both the old and new starters with jumper cables, and the make certain, I took them to the local parts store and they also texted them. While both of the starter were fine, I'm not!
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After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
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The car has been sitting since last March (11 months). I have 3/4 tank of gas. The starter turns and the car almost starts. I suspect old gas is the problem because it sounds as if it wants to start and the gas is old. Could it be the injectors are clogged? If so, is there a way I can clean these myself? Or maybe another diagnosis?
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Pulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
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I have a 2005 F350 w/6.0 turbo diesel. Had starter replaced last spring. Went to store recently, came out & truck starter would just wind and whine, no flywheel engagement. Mechanic replaced Napa starter under warranty and now the starter whines when just trying to connect the battery(s) without even turning the key. I did try several attempts at starting truck when stranded at the local store, with no results but starter whining. Could I have created a dead short some where, and where would be a good place to start?? How do you get a schematic of the starting system?
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2003 santa fe, automatic, front wheel drive, 4 cylinder.
I had problems with the starter not cranking. took it off to the auto parts store and tested bad. I bought a new one there from called a tough one brand name. put it in, and it grinds the flywheel and sounds like it does not engage the flywheel enough. to it back to the auto parts store, and tested it, and it seemed like the gear did not shoot out like it should. they replaced it with a second starter now that tested good before i left the store, put it in and it does the same thing.
1. Can this type of starter not throw the gear far enough into the flywheel ?
2. Can a voltage drop to the starter cause the same thing. Basically is it possible my wires are bad not throwing enough juice to throw the gear all the way forward.
I pulled the starter out and jumped it with the battery and it seemed to work fine, but on the car it just grinds.
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Came home from a trip and the Santa Fe had been parked for 3 days. No starting issues prior, but went to move it and no go. When I turn the keys something "spins" but the starter does not engage. 99% sure it needs replaced. 02 GLS V6 AWD
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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I know I am stating the obvious but a clutch job on a 2010 Santa Fe CM (diesel) takes a lot of time.
My brides Santa Fe has over 280,000 km (175000miles) and has had the loud clatter from the flywheel (dual mass) for quite some time and more recently the pedal started to remain on the floor and the 'fix' of bleeding and flushing new fluid through the system stopped being effective. When a leak from the slave developed I was forced to accept that I would have to either fix or sell the vehicle.
By far the biggest obstacle I found was the non availability of a workshop manual to guide the task as it would no doubt speed the process massively for a number of reasons, some of which are listed below:
* Having a structured step by step procedure to follow, showing hidden bolt placement, torque settings, specific tools required and little tricks.
* By allowing one to assess the extent of the task and determine if one has the time/skillset/tools to deal with it would be great.
* Taking the guesswork away and thereby preventing unneeded parts removal.
* Having actual parts numbers to confirm parts suppliers supply correct parts.
Finally, of note is the way in which vehicle manufacturers assemble cars on the production line by using subframe cradles etc places massive extra difficulty with a task such as this as the clearances for tools, hands, arms and body are very very tight indeed.
I don't intend to outline a step by step process as others are far more qualified to do so, however I will point out some tricky things I have learned during the experience which may assist others. I will list them in no apparent order and will add others when I think of them.
1. The flywheel bolts are Torx T60.
2. The flywheel bolt access aperture had blocked access to the head of two of the bolts that required the use of a die grinder to remove some flywheel material. Not sure as to why this occurred or how.
3. Initially, I intended to remove the gearbox from the bell housing and remove both separately to make it easier but after removing the available bolts and prying the two apart (unsuccessfully) I removed the unit as a whole. Once on the bench I saw there were 4 bolts going into the gearbox from within the bell housing. So this unnecessary attempt needed me to split the two on the bench, scrape and clean old gasket material away and rejoin them together with new gasket silastic.
4. I supported the gearbox and bell housing from the top with an engine hoist and lowered it to be wrestled out.
5. I only dropped one side of the cradle but would remove it entirely if doing it again.
Probably enough for now i guess
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I have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
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Today i had my ac running and switched the speed from 3 down to 1, then poof totally went off and will not come back on at all. I tried replacing the resistor, still nothing. Next tried the blower motor, still nothing. Then replaced all the fuses, still nothing. The compressor is kicking on. Can here the click under the passengers side when turning ac on, but the blower motor is not coming on.
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