Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Smoking Engine When The Defrost Is On
Feb 8, 2012
When I turn on the defrost in my 02 santa fe, the engine smokes. when i'm parked and turn on the defrost, the car stalls out.
What I think is the timing belt seems to be making a funny noise, and my wife thinks she saw the smoke coming from there. it looks to be in good shape, though.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe and it's been running fine except I just replaced my oil pan from damage from ice and just did front brake pads 2 days ago.( oil went onto the pads and caused a weird grinding sound) ...
After the brake pads were done it drove fine. I came home and the next morning I go to reverse and the truck will not move at all. I can go to any gear but it just will not move. I thought it could be the brakes were frozen because the front right was smoking after the pads were installed and had the guy who did them check it out. he figured it was a caliper on the driver's side and replaced it, but it will still not move. I am praying this is not a trans problem.
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what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
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My Nissan xterra 2001 is smoking after turning off engine. Thermometer is showing normal temp. Check engine light is blinking.
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My son's 2001 LeSabre (3800 N/A) was smoking under the hood and the odor was entering the cabin. I decided it was likely due to coolant and oil leaks from the valve covers and manifold gaskets as well as a crack in the upper radiator hose. So I replaced all the gaskets and hoses and cleaned it up some.
After a test drive, smoke still coming from under hood. It appeared to come from the exhaust crossover joints (mainly front) and possibly from the seam on the crossover "shroud". I suspected some rust damage to the crossover, so pulled it out. (And spent my Sunday digging out a broken bolt. )
I don't see any visible rust on the crossover (but can't inspect the entire thing visually). Could it be a clogged catalytic converter causing back pressure and the leak? Or is it more likely something under the hood like a head gasket. (I hope not. )
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Santafe 2008, Manual Climate Control Switch. Can i disable AC "turn on" when i switch to front defrost.
in modern Hyundai cars, they can disable this operation by pressing 5 times on Intake (recirculation) button.
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About 3 weeks after an oil change, my 01 Ford Ranger started knocking and smoking when I accelerated up hills. I checked the oil levels to find that it was completely empty. Refilled the oil, but the problem persisted. Tried gas additive--nothing. Finally limped into the Ford dealership where they kept my car for 6 weeks trying to figure out what the problem was. After new plugs, wires, MAF sensor, coil, and PCM the problem seemed to be fixed...mostly. Knocking and smoking eventually stopped until I checked the oil levels again and it was empty. Added oil which started the symptoms all over again. Mechanic ruled out blown gasket. Claims knocking and smoking are unrelated (even though they happen at the same time 100% of the time). Smoke is white. Knocking (at its worst) sounds like a bolt rattling around in engine. Car does not lose power, and when I gun the engine it seems to go away. Only happens going up hills (of which Tennessee has plenty of).
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I'm getting smoke from the catalytic converter area on my 2001 Subaru Forester. The smoke smells of rubber or oil. I've only noticed it after the car has been driven up a long, steep incline of at least a couple of miles. I've never seen it happen after normal highway driving. The car runs fine, gas mileage is good, CE light is not on, 85K miles, regularly serviced.
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I have a 90 celica, and while I driving today, the engine started smoking. I pulled over and took a look. The smoke was coming from behind the smoke and air filter area. I let it sight for about 2 hours and drove it back home and it wasn't smoking. Both times, it was on the road for about 20 minutes. I got a buddy of mine to take a look and he said that it was caused from the coolant boiling(I didn't think coolant coils boil). And it rained for a week straight, and I haven't driven it since it started raining. Could that have anything to do with it?
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My car has 343,000 miles and runs great. It has recently started smoking, but only does it when the engine is cold. I've heard that it could be the rings, and to buy an additive that I could add to the oil. I go through about a half a quart for every 500 miles. I'm not expecting the car to last forever, but I was wondering if it would be beneficial to buy the additive.
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I just stopped for gas and as I was walking into the store I heard a poof sound and my car was smoking and all my coolant came pouring out from under the engine, I checked the two hoses coming off the radiator and there both connected and not wet, the leak came from somewhere other than that. 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.7 liter GT...
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This little engine runs very hot. To make matters worst the radiator fan comes on high on the gauge temperature reading unlike other cars I have had in the past. What else to do to run the engine cooler without affecting fuel economy? I wish there was a way to make the radiator fan come on at a lower temperature.
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I have a '94 XJS Jaguar that has been having repeated issues starting and has lately been putting out a dramatic plume of grey smoke each time has actually succeeded in starting. Currently, the engine refuses to turnover (or even give the usual "crank"); however, all the electrics in the car - lights, radio etc - seem to work perfectly fine.
Attempts to jump the car have proved futile. Previous trips to the repair shop have included battery replacements, battery cable replacements, tightening of this, that and the other thing as well as a transmission cleaning, all to no avail. What the issue might be?
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
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When I turn on windshield defogger no air coming to defrost windshield. Air is coming fine from other vents. Is there a fuse I need to check or some other issue?
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a 2001 4-dr. Saturn sedan. We had a cold rainstorm a few nights ago while I was driving my car and my windows started to fog up. I attempted to move the switch from the vents to the defroster, and the knob stopped -- and stuck -- in mid-turn. After a bit of a struggle, I was finally able to get the switch over to defrost -- but the next day, when I again needed the A/C, the switch would not turn back. I took it to a Saturn mechanic who quoted $1,000 to fix it. I took it to another mechanic who doesn't specialize and he could only quote his labor -- about $200. It is now in the floor vent/defrost position and I can live with that -- but I would like to have it fixed some day. Is this a hopeless cause since Saturns are no longer manufactured?
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I have a 2001 E150 and when i turn the AC/heat/air on it will only come out the defrost vents. Whenever i flip the switch left or right nothing comes out, but when i put it on defrost it works... but only through the defrost vents....
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2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2wd 2.7L 175,000 miles
Having misfire in #1 &4, new plugs, new wires, new coils, new cam and crank sensors, cleaned and tested fuel injectors, checked injector signal, checked timing belt.
Swapped around plugs, wires and injectors(keeping same firing order) and the # 1 & 4 will not fire. There is spark to the wires and plugs and gas thru injectors but no detonation.
With plenum and exhaust manifold removed (front only) visually checked valves. Installed new oxygen sensors while exhaust was out. Tested ecu fuses in black relay box in engine compartment.
Engine stars first time ,every time but only runs on 4 cylinders. Check engine light code reads no 4 cylinder misfire.
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Engine will die randomly. After sitting for half hour it will restart. It has been to the dealer, it sets no codes but when it dies all lights on dash come on just like when you first start car. It has 75k on it timing belt replaced new plugs and wires. Dealer kept it 2 days and could not replicate the problem.
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3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
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I have a 2006 2.4l petrol (and an LPG gas system) model that is becoming impossible to drive due to the engine cutting out. I had all the plugs changed an injector thingy and some leads last week when it first started to cut.
At first we thought it was the gas system because it was running on gas the first few times it died. I've just taken it out to road test the petrol (with the gas turned off) and it did it again. It happens mostly when at idle (traffic lights) but has also cutout twice at speed on the main road. You can't restart it, it turns over for ever and doesn't fire up...but I did bump start it once. The next day it will start as if nothing was wrong. I haven't been able to access whether any lamps come on (mainly due to being in panic mode at some junction).
So my questions to the experts are based on the 3 main culprits mentioned elsewhere:
Alarm or immobiliser.- is there any way to disable the alarm/immobiliser so I can check if it is that?
Fuel and fuel pressure systems. - can I assume that because it does it on both fuel types that it isn't fuel filter/pressure pump like?
Cam sensor. - I have a mechanic friend who repairs everyone's car at work (600+ people and I think he's mended a good half of those)..is the fitting of a cam sensor only doable with some strange specialist tuning/timing equipment or is it a simple case of unscrew, replace and good is?
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