My 2006 santa fe diesel 2.2 has started to be be a bit smokey when accelerating not even hard had the egr valve off today and gave it a good clean still the same it's not really bad but can see when moving off from parked...
View 2 RepliesI want to change the glow-plugs on my 2004 Santa Fe CRDI to see if it cures its rough/smokey start up, but I am not sure of their location. I think they might be under the intercooler, but I don't want to strip it all down to find out they are not there.
View 8 RepliesIt'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
View 3 Replies2002 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD automatic
She was on the highway this afternoon and was accelerating to merge in with traffic. Apparently the car just reved up without actually accelerating. She said it felt like she was in neutral. I've driven the car a few times over the last week and it has been running perfectly - No hesitation anywhere at any speed. There are no CELs (yet). It is probably worth mentioning that it has been raining HEAVILY here for the last 24-hours and I would not be the least bit surprised if she hit a few puddles on the way. I can just about guarantee the CPS has never been changed and am suspecting it may be a short in causing her problem.
I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
So this happens fairly regularly. only during part throttle, cruising, the acceleration and rpm will dip and fall for a second, then comes back. if i let off the gas when it happens and get back on it, it comes back sooner. about a year ago i got TPS CEL, changed the APS but it didn't fix anything.
Weird thing is, when using cruise i don't see it. at least it's not nearly as noticeable. I had some idle and misfire issues recently and found a broken coil the culprit. changed that out and fixed those issues.
What would cause this issue when using the pedal but not the cruise? I think it has something to do with the accelerator pedal sensor...i do notice the throttle cable going to the APS has a small nut on it and it looks like it can be adjusted, would that cause this issue? research says TPS doesn't fail....
When I accelerate from a stop or turn left/right with my 2006 Santa Fe, I receive a vibration which feels like a sliding motion or skidding over rough pavement. Have just recently switched my tires from winter to summer and have had them balanced and aligned twice with no change in the problem.
View 2 RepliesMy '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
On light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
I will try to film the sound and post it later; but for now I have a 3.5L V6 AWD with 85k on it. i get grunting and groaning on colder mornings and sometimes a med pitched whine, more noticeable at higher speeds in town.
View 9 RepliesOk here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
Last night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
New here - 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4L Autostick//great car so far, but this is annoying me!
I can't feel any vibration, I just bought the vehicle and wondering where this noise might be coming from? If you rev the engine over 3k there is a strange vibrating/humming/rattling?? noise but you can't feel any vibration. I was thinking it might be the plastic cover on the engine or maybe something loose? I've already had the belt tensioners/belts checked out and that is not the issue.
It also sounds like a ricer when accelerating heavily (but from inside the cabin) there aren't any exhaust leaks at least I don't think so...
For about 3 years, our SF (about 125,000 miles) has experienced the whirring/whining upon acceleration whenever the AC was running. I didn't do anything about this as the AC still worked well.
Just a few days ago, while running the AC for a "recharge" during our recent cooler weather, I realized that the AC was not cooling below outside ambient temperature, nor was the whirring present any more. I assume that the compressor finally seized. (?)
To keep repair costs low, and based upon the description above, where should I begin to look to see where the problem lies? Is it most likely a seized compressor/clutch? I am unsure if this is the issue, since even when driving with the AC turned to "Max", I now notice NO detrimental effects upon the engine/power output, which makes me wonder if the compressor actually seized. Wouldn't a seized compressor actually be very hard for the belt to turn, or possibly burn the belt?
I know the compressors and AC systems on these cars are notorious for dying too soon...
We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
View 4 RepliesI have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
2001 Santa Fe, 2.4L DOHC engine, 129,000 miles
I bought the vehicle knowing that it was not running well. It idled quite smoothly but had no power on acceleration but was able drive it home at ~30mph. Never had a timing belt change so I foolishly fixed that before I solved the low power problem. Timing belt change went OK and then I discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked - HUGE crack. Fixed that and installed new cat at the same time. Checked compression and read consistent 127-129 across 4 cylinders. Also installed new before and after O2 sensors at this time. Started her up and sounds good, idles smooth. Hooked the scanner up and read P0115 (something about engine coolant temperature circuit), so I cleared it thinking it must have overheated in the past and that is how the E-manifold cracked.
P0115 never returned.
I have no codes showing now however it appears to be running in open loop and scanner shows "open loop due to insufficient engine temperature" but engine temperature is reading 200 deg F. Also the O2 sensors are not being read, see attached readout.
At this point I am stumped and am thinking I need to check fuel pressure or maybe injectors are clogged. But why would it be running in open loop?
Getting quite a bit of smoke at start-up in the mornings. I expect this from my diesel Jetta but not from my 1.8T. The car has 185,000 km on it and I'm the original owner. Maintenance has been followed to the letter - correct VW-spec synthetic oil since the first oil change as well. There are no major issues with the car..............aside from the smokey starts that started recently. No CEL or codes either. What could be up it?
View 4 RepliesI am pretty sure my heater core is failing and has been for a while (no drip, but coolant smell). Today when I turned on the A/C, I got a nasty, smokey mist from the vents along with the cold air. The fog/mist smells like coolant but with a burned, somewhat oily smell.
2004 ranger, 3.0, 2wd, ext cab, 193,000 mi --- also, what if any, special tools do I need to R&R heater core. The last heater core I did was an 83 GMC p/u and it was a breeze; handful of sockets and I was done - I have heard the ranger will be quite a bit tougher.