My 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
I was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Auto Santa Fe and every now and again the ABS light keeps coming on and also the ABS kicks in during normal braking.
The car was serviced and all brakes changed last Aug. What may be causing the problem.
I just changed my stabilizer link front right side and it did not solve the single clunk noise that I hear when accelerating and braking.. although it did solve the "multi clunk noises and creaking I get that is now gone away.. but this other single clunk noise what else could it be from it does it when driving straight and there are no clunks when turning. I must add that is that I can hear it and its a low pitched clunk... and is also felt in the steering wheel.
View 2 Replies2001 Hyundai Sante Fe. When braking, I get a noise and the whole vehicle shakes. Exactly as if I were driving in snow and just slammed the brakes. The feeling & noise feels and sounds the exact same as if I were sliding...
I've replaced the master cyl originally just because today is the first day the issue lasted long enough for me to fully hear//feel the whole issue. It's normally brief.
I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
View 1 RepliesHere's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
I bought a 2011 Santa Fe in September and now that winter has set in up here, I find that when approaching a stop sign and there is black ice, I noticed that when you press on the brakes, it shudders. Almost jumps if you know what I mean. I've never had this experience and scared the crap out of me the first time. Is it normal? The only time it does this is when the wheels lock and slide on the ice. The brakes? I think then shudder. This is the first Hyundai I've ever owned and love it so far.
View 9 RepliesI just bought a used 2007 Santa Fe Limited. It has 78,000 miles on it. I have gone bumper to bumper looking for problems and am pretty happy about the condition. HOWEVER, I have noticed a shuddering/bobbling, fairly faint, when going over slightly rough roads a low speeds. The tires are shot. But they are all exactly the same ... meaning the same wear more so on the outside. I believe they were rotated properly, but something is wearing the outside prematurely. Is the shuddering/bobbling the culprit? What is the most common issue for the Shuddering/bobbling at low speeds on slightly rough roads?
Next, I want a quiet ride. Handling is not a concern. Should I go with a slightly wider tire or slightly taller tire? Lastly, I need new mats. I want them to be the same as what came with the car. Do I have to go to the dealer or are there some vendors with better deals on factory mats.
Going up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
My 2001 Toyota Camry had an oil change and 80,000 mile checkup and drove home fine. We went out of town in someone else's car the next day for the weekend. Driving to work Mon, it began shuddering and the RPM needle was waving quickly between 0.5 & 1.5 rpm. This only continued to happen when my foot was off the gas, especially when stopping. It drove fine when accelerating & higher than 45 mph. I took it back to the mechanic and & said he found that the solenoid had gone bad & affected the idle, & also that with the solenoid not working my spark plugs had been burned. He changed it all out, and it works ok now for me, but my wife had a day a week later when it vibrated when she drove over 60mph. I used it today and had no problem. Is that likely that the solenoid would go bad w/out warning and affect the idle & spark plugs that way? Should I take it somewhere else?
View 5 RepliesWorking on a 2002 prius with 153k miles. bought it with a "Bad transmission" diagnosed by toyota dealer. Got I home and did a quick check but there were no codes. I drove it about 50 feet into my garage where it would shudder badly while being driven which from my experience sounds like a bad MG2 motor. Drained the oil and thought hhmmm th oil does not smell bad and neither did it look burned. Proceeded to pull the mg2 but found it looked brand new, no burned spots or any such thing. SO I put it back together and think its a bad invertor. put on a different invertor that I have lying in my garage that I "think" is good and start the car. get code p3125 and p3120 and still have the bad shuddering when i try to drive it..Is there any way to test it further before I pull the trans and put a new trans back in?
View 19 RepliesThe car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
View 2 RepliesHave a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
View 4 RepliesMy son brought his 2007 Santa Fe over to troubleshoot a squeak upon braking. It took about an hour, but I isolated it to the braking switch. Took it out and attempted to lubricate the plunger. So for some dollars and a trip to the store and the squeak is gone. Just thought I would post this if others have an annoying squeak and don't know where to start.
View 11 Replies2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
Whenever I step on the brakes the lights on the instrument panel go out. When I take my foot off the brake they come back on. When I use the right blinker they blink. They do not blink when I use the left. What is this?
View 4 RepliesDriving 30 mph, oil light came on, immediate loss of power braking and steering. Engine did not stop, oil light disappeared yet still had loss of power steering and brakes. Still in D. Policeman had to stand on brake pedal to get into Park so that engine could be turned off. Towed to dealer in next state and dealer said cannot replicate so cannot fix.
Car is 2012 Santa Fe w/ less than 6,000 miles on it.
I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD, I notice that when I apply the brakes at 100 KM or higher I hear a 'thumping' noise, the noise is hard to describe, thumping is the best I could come up with, the noise goes away once the vehicle is down to 80 KM, why this is?
View 7 Replies