My wife's 04 AWD 2.7 Santa Fe has developed a severe vibration. I have rotated tires, checked ball joints and tie rod ends, and had it aligned. The tires show very even wear and don't appear to have any bulges or broken belts. The vibration is so severe that the vents rattle louder than max radio volume, but it completely disappears in even the gentlest right turn.
View 6 RepliesI could barely hear the radio and the volume was not working. A couple of days later, the display screen (GPS, Radio, ...) would not come off after I turned car engine off. The battery discharged as a result. When attempting to start the car, lots of clicks were coming off the fuse box under the hood.
My solution: I removed the negative on battery and put it back; now everything is back to normal.
This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
View 13 RepliesToday I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
View 9 RepliesI took a ten hour drive to see about a parts car for a car I'd like to restore and on my way there and back I noticed my stock radio (with CD player) that came with the truck would not increase in volume beyond a certain point. At its peak it was about one-third of what it should be despite the meter being all the way to the far right.
As I drove along for hours, I noticed a couple of times that the volume would come and go.It would be itself momentarily then go back to almost nothing. Also,when I first start the truck,there is a short popping sound hailing from the speakers. For what it's worth,the CD player stopped reading CDs a ways back.. Does any radio manufacturer out there make a radio/CD player for this model that just slips right in without any cutting or looking aftermarket?
2001 F-150, Regular cab long bed, 4.6 ....
No audio on 2001 Toyota Echo radio. Volume control never stops when rotated. Radio lights up, showing station frequencies as I change stations. My conclusion is Power-Volume switch is shot and needs to be replaced. Sound logical? Is it a big problem to remove radio and change the switch?
View 2 RepliesMy wife called today on the side of the road with a strange knock/rattle sound from the front (engine/trans/etc) along with an apparent loss of power. (no prior warning signs -- just started) She wisely stopped driving, then called me, and we decided it would be wise to have it towed home.
(Let me take a moment to praise my wife who has always been extraordinarily attentive to the mechanical operation of her vehicles. I've always been the fleet mechanic, and if she has ever experienced anything out of the ordinary, she contacts me immediately. She's not frantic or unreasonable -- in fact she's fiercely independent -- she's simply a conscientious person, and I love that about her.)
So we get the car home and I begin looking into what's going on. Was hoping it would be something simple like a motor mount or exhaust shield... no such luck. Everything externally seems fine.
I'm having intermittent problems with the air conditioner on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If it matters, it's a 2wd, 3.5 liter model with about 66,000 miles. Below I will post a description of what's happening, as well as some other things that I've noticed and things that I've tried (these may or may not be relevant to the problem though). OK, here's what's happening:
I first noticed the problem back in late July and since then it has been happening more frequently. So far the problem only occurs after I've been driving on the interstate, although I'm not sure if it's a matter of my speed, or just a matter of how long the a/c has been running. Typically I only drive 15 minutes at a time unless I'm on the interstate where I would typically drive for a few hours or so. What's happening is that after a while (the time varies from 20 minutes to an hour or so) the flow of the air conditioning coming through the vents slows down to just a trickle. The a/c is still really cold, but it just barely comes out of the vents, no matter what speed I set it on. Here are some things that I've noticed (and a few things that I've done to try to repair it):
1.) I read that it might be the cabin air filter, even though normally Santa Fe's aren't equipped with them. I took the glove box out, and found the spot where the air filter normally goes and there was one installed (we bought the car used). I took it out and it was disgustingly dirty - a bunch of dirt, some leaves, sticks, etc... I just took out the filter completely and didn't replace it.
2.) While I was looking at that air filter, I also noticed that the box right to the left of that filter was wet with condensation. This was right after a two hour drive with the A/C on maximum cold all the way home though, so I don't know if that is normal or not. It wasn't dripping on the floor, but there was noticeable condensation on that box (I don't know what that "box" is).
3.) The problem will sometimes go away if I turn the air conditioning completely off for about 5-10 minutes. It seems that the longer I leave the a/c off the better chance I have of it working when I turn it back on.
4.) When I change the fan speed on the air conditioning I can hear the blower motor running at different levels. It almost sounds as if there's something in the dash that is clogging up the pipes. I can hear a whistling sound when the blower is on the lowest speed - when it's up any higher than that I can't hear it, but that's probably just because of the noise coming from the blower itself.
5.) I had the problem today, and I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I got back into the car I heard the sound of water trickling from underneath the glove box. It was very quiet, but it was there.
6.) When we have this problem, it happens on all of the vents. It doesn't matter what vent you choose for the air to come out of - the flow is just a trickle.
7.) It doesn't matter if it is heat or cold - the flow is very slow on both of these.
8.) The a/c is still ice cold during all of this. It blows colder than any other a/c that I've ever had.
9.) I noticed that sometimes while driving, a white mist will come out of the vents. Sometimes we have the problem above after we see the mist - sometimes it still works fine though, but I did think it was odd that the "mist" was coming out. I'm not sure if it's water vapor or what, but it does go away if you turn the temperature control a little to the warm side (even just a notch or two away from max cold).
Originally, I had thought that it was the blower motor and I was just going to replace it, but then I started thinking about it and don't think that it is the blower motor because it seems to be working well most of the time, and even when I have the problem I can hear it running - again it sounds like something is clogging up the a/c system somewhere between the blower and the vents. I also read some things about the blend doors, but I'm not sure if that's it or not.
I have a 2010 Camry XLE and just had the AC Evaporator Replaced. After the replacement, I have noticed problems with the AC fan. Specifically, when accelerating, the volume of air coming through the vents decreases. When stopped at traffic lights or when I take my foot off the accelerator, the AC air returns to normal. Even when idling in Park and then press the accelerating, I can feel less air coming out of the vents.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 prius, and it has developed a severe vibration when the engine is running. It is only when the engine is running, even in park. I'm thinking it's the motor mounts, but I was wondering if there could be another cause. I do not have a check engine light, and the engine appears to be running fine. the vibration goes away whenever the engine cuts off, and there are no other drivability issues.
View 3 Replies82000 kilometres on my 2012 v. 16 inch wheels. Serviced at the dealership right on schedule since new. Last service at 80000 they said the tires are at 2/32 tread depth and recommended replacement. Michelin energy savers, original tires. My monthly driving is only around 600 km so I decided to wait till the spring to change them.
View 19 RepliesI just replaced the vacuum motor that opens and closes the Max Air door as it's diaphram was ruptured. Now it is working correctly, however when I go from normal to max the volume of air coming out the vents doesn't seem to increase. The door hasn't been working for about a year and I didn't realize why. Should the volume increase going to Max or just the air get colder from recirculating? In my Dodge the volume increases consderably. Could there be trash (leaves, things dropped through the defrost vents) partly blocking the air through the evaporator? How do I access to check and clean out? Remove the blower motor?
View 1 Replies2004 Saturn Vue, V6 AWD with 138K miles. In the last 8 months I have had the struts rebuilt, all brake components replaced (everything), front axles replaced, anti-sway bar bushings replaced, front end alignment, replaced wheels and tires and front wheel bearings, replaced two broken motor mounts, removed defective main drive shaft, all to eliminate the vibration that begins at speeds approaching highway speeds.
The problem has not gone away but is much improved with the new axles and motor mounts. Sheering shaft was replaced 7 years ago.
The GM dealer refuses to look at it until I replace the drive shaft, which the car doesn't need to drive.
I have had it to suspension specialists and a dozen mechanics and we are all at a loss.
Bought my 2009 super cab with 6.5 bed little over a month ago. It has the 4.6 3v. A couple weeks after I got all the symptoms of a dry slip yoke. Thumping at stop and start. Shortly after I also started getting a very bad vibration the got progressively worse during acceleration. Felt like the truck was going to bounce off the road. With the vibration there was also a loud chirping noise from underneath. Thinking this was related to the skip yoke problem I pulled the driveshaft and lubricated the yoke with CV joint grease my dealer gave me since they didn't have the Teflon grease.
Truck was fine for a couple weeks. No thumping no vibration no chirping. Last week the vibration and chirping came back just as bad. I got the ford Teflon grease and pulled the driveshaft again. The very next day the vibration and chirping came back. No thumping or other noise like before my initial grease job. When it starts shaking I stop and shut the truck off. Usually once I do that and wait a couple minutes I'm ok. Only happens intermittently. U joints?
My 02 Mountaineer doesn't have any air flow volume out of the heat, defrost, or a/c vents. The temp will change from hot to cold and the air direction will also change from floor, dash, windshield, etc. The a/c recirculation door also seems to be working. The fan sounds as it is running very fast, just not putting out any volume. What should I look for?
View 3 RepliesIt has a new battery, a new alternator, gas, oil changed. The lights inside come on, the radio will not come on, when you try and start it, it will not turn over, it acts as if its dead....A mechanic told me it might have an electrical issue a couple of months ago because I had gotten a new battery then, and it drove for 3 weeks and died... I don't know what could it be..
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 F-150 Supercab with the V-6. This past weekend it developed some strange noise best described as a rattle or vibration that sounds like it is coming from under the driver's side dash possibly somewhere right behind the instrument cluster. May even sounds a little like a "grinding" noise - like two plastic gears not agreeing with each other, but I don't know of anything under there that could make that noise. I have opened the hood and listened from there with my wife pressing the gas to make the noise start, but can't hear anything from outside the truck.
It is not constant, but starts as soon as I give it a little gas, even before I put it in drive. It's a little worse when it is in drive. I have turned the air on and off, turned the steering wheel, pressed the brake, etc, and it doesn't appear to be related to anything obvious. I have stuck my hand under the dash and can't find anything obviously loose.
have a 2006 Forest River Lexington 255 GTS on a Ford E450 chassis. We purchased it used 2yrs ago from a private owner with only 20,000 miles. It had a slight vibration which got worse over 60 mph. All tires were replaced and when that didn't work, took to a different dealer to have road balanced. We drove the home some and the vibration got worse starting about 40 mph. We took it to a local truck repair shop that does drive-line work. They have replaced the transmission tail housing with a bearing it, had the drive shaft rebuilt including new u-joints and re-tubing the front driveshaft. The vibration now is worse than ever..so bad that it's not drive-able over about 30 mph.
View 7 RepliesThe radio in my 07 Prius gets louder by itself.
I crank it to 25, and can watch it go up and up. It doesn't always happen, but all of a sudden I'll find it's very loud and check the setting and it's u past 30.
I have a 2.4 Petrol, 16 valve engine in my Santa Fe which produces a rattle on startup when cold. When warm it starts normally. Oil and filter change makes no difference. Timing belt changed 40K ago. No other effects felt with regard to power or noise once initial noise/rattle has stopped after 2 to 4 seconds.
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