I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
View 10 RepliesI already paid deposit to a dealer to buy a 2012 RX350. But I just noticed there are lots of rust on the subframe and attached components at the the underside of the vehicle. I made a video, but I could not upload it due to the size of the file. I uploaded some pictures for you to see. One rust spot is on the real frame. Or there is no way to clean up the rust because the rust are already there? The mileage of the vehicle is 81,000 KM)?
View 11 RepliesThe frames around the passenger windows have rusted on my 2005 Santa Fe. I have seen this on some other Santa Fe's as well. Is this a common problem.
View 1 RepliesCar is on airlift slam xl and on a set of bbs style 5's 17x8 et20 with 195/40 all around. problem is the front subframe hits the ground already before it completely airs out so i got some front tires still showing in the front.
View 1 RepliesSo I'm coming from the MK5, MK6, & CC/B6 Passat world. On those cars, they were notorious for having the front subframe "clunk" noise. The suframe would shift back & forth, creating a "clunk." This was VW's fix: [URL] ....
Anyways....I've noticed this about 5 times now I'm on my '13 Passat V6.....when I go to back up into a parking spot. And that's the ONLY time it's done it too.
Going from Drive, I put it into Reverse and then turn the wheel a little (NOT even all the way) and hear a "pop" or creak/clunk....definitely from the front. So my guess is that it's the subframe shifting. Only 400 miles on the car too, btw.
Have this issue when creeping forward or backward. If I did not know better I would think that I had a broken motor mount. When I creep forward or backward I can feel and hear the entire front subframe shutter just a little. It gets a little worst when everything is warmed up.
If you have had this, what did the dealer or you do to resolve? Until now I have decided to just deal with it. I have about 9k on the clock.
I was under my car the other day and i noticed this dent in the rear of the subframe, just in front of the passenger side rear wheel. I didn't see damage anywhere else. Is this something I should be concerned about?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
View 17 RepliesI just noticed today that the piece that connects the rear wiper to the window is rusting. It is only 1.5 years old, so seems odd to be rusting already. I'll be taking it in for an oil change soon, so will get it looked at and see what they say.
View 18 RepliesStarted getting a knocking in the front end when you hit small pot holes. I was wondering would it be strut mounts or something else ?
View 10 RepliesThe best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
View 1 Replies'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
View 1 RepliesMy front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
I have 4cyl XLE (23months 25000miles) I found this long time back but never get chance to take proper pics....
On my front axles there is lots of rust, I was wondering is this normal....or is this can be cover under corrosion factory warranty....
Just found one more old news on NY times.. Hyundai Recalls 259,000 Vehicles for Corrosion and Axle Problems....
Last couple months, I've started to have some major vibration in the front end when reaching the 60-70 mph range. Some minor vibration in the 55-60 and 70-75 ranges, but primarily (and worse) in the 60-70 range. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas for more acceleration (particularly when I gun it), not when I'm coasting in that range. I had the tires balanced a month or so ago, so I know it's not that.
View 1 RepliesI just picked up a 2006 GLS with 66,600 miles. Everything works great aside from the front door actuators. Outside at the drivers door I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the passenger front door). From the passenger side I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the drivers door). The Central door lock switch will not lock or unlock the front passenger door.
I am hoping that the fact that either side functions with the other doors indicates that the actuators are still working. My guess is that the front actuators just aren't communicating with each other. Is this just a programming problem that the Hyundai Hi Scan Pro computer can resolve? It doesn't appear that the vehicle has been programmed for the xx MPH automatic door lock. We had to have the dealer program this "option" on our 2007.
2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe and it's been running fine except I just replaced my oil pan from damage from ice and just did front brake pads 2 days ago.( oil went onto the pads and caused a weird grinding sound) ...
After the brake pads were done it drove fine. I came home and the next morning I go to reverse and the truck will not move at all. I can go to any gear but it just will not move. I thought it could be the brakes were frozen because the front right was smoking after the pads were installed and had the guy who did them check it out. he figured it was a caliper on the driver's side and replaced it, but it will still not move. I am praying this is not a trans problem.
I was going to replace rotors and pads. found the calipers seized. took them apart, cleaned and regreased. Pads were fine. Problem is that both front brakes don't grip rotor. Back brakes work fine...
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