Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Rushing Sound Of Fuel Occurs When Key Is Set To On Position Before Starting
Feb 2, 2016
My 2005 Santa Fe w/ 2.7L V6 started a strange symptom recently. Not always but often after its been turned off for awhile when I turn the key to the on position you can hear a fairly loud rushing noise while you inside the vehicle. With the heater/blower/radio and everything else turned off you can hear what sounds like fluid rushing or growling noise when you turn the key to the on position before starting the engine. It times off after a few seconds about the same interval as the fuel pump run time. It sounds just like fluid gushing and everyone inside the cabin can noticeably hear it.
Now I realize the the fuel tank and the fuel pump assembly are positioned under the vehicle in the same area as the back seat and I believe the access plate to the fuel pump assembly is directly under the drivers side backseat's bottom cushion. So it makes sense that any noise inside the fuel tank would be noticeable from inside the cabin. So far the vehicle has no drivability issues. But intermittently after the vehicle has been off for awhile the noise reappears at key on position. It sounds as if when the key is turned to the on position the fuel pump priming is causing turbulence and flushing fuel around in the tank. Yet it starts and drives normally. I've had this vehicle since it was brand new and I know of many issues that these Santa Fe's have but this new to me.
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We bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
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My santa fe has been great but recently after putting fuel in, it does not seem to want to start.turns over and runs for a couple seconds then dies out. Have to keep accelerator pushed down for it to keep running. after that it seems to run and crank ok. Why it keeps dying out after fueling?
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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I will occasionally get a misfire after a rain storm, lasts about ten minutes then goes away. there is also a slight miss (no CEL) at idle, that occurs all the time. I'm thinking spark plug wires.... the plugs were done last year, but nothing else. to my knowledge the wires and coil packs are all original. i'm at about 114K on a 2004 santa fe 3.5l.
Also, does the computer store misfire codes? I know I got them in the past and i checked it at the time, but didn't write down what cylinder it was. think it'll still be in memory?
Think it's ok to change just the wires and not the coil packs? kind of on a budget...
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I got my 2015 GTI APR stage 1 tuned at about 1100 miles, was very satisfied with it. Now at about 1400-1500 miles, I've begun to notice a "whooshing" type sound, as if air is being sucked in...louder than I ever remember hearing it. It happens when cruising and gently stepping on the gas. I'm wondering if it is a leak somewhere. It doesn't seem to happen all the time, but when it does, it is quite noticeable. I would think that if it were a leak, it would be happening all the time.
It almost seems like there is a slight loss of power as the turbo kicks in (less punchy?), but that might just be in my head. The car still gets up to high speeds very quickly.
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I have a rushing water sound (i.e. air in the cooling system) coming from under the dash (I'm sure its the heater core) every time I slow and corner, or accelerate from a stop.
When I open the radiator when its cold, it's low. I pour in about 3-4 ounces to fill it. When I squeeze the heater hoses with the cap off, I get bubbles, and have to add a bit more. This seems to solve it for a little while, but only until the car is warm enough that the thermostat opens up. Then... air bubbles rushing through again.
The engine never overheats, and the heater works perfectly. The overflow is within the normal area, and never seems to go up or down. Otherwise I might suspect a small leak in my head gasket or something.
I have tried to "burp" the system multiple times. I'm not sure I'm doing it right, but then again it's not that hard to do, right? Anyway.... no dice, I still get the noise.
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For months I've been hearing the sound of rushing air coming from the direction of the front passenger side door. I've been trying to ignore it, but it's been getting worse. Today I noticed what appears to be a narrow gap between the rubber stripping and the front windshield near the wiper blade tip. Could that be where air is leaking in?
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Before I take my 3 month old T2 in for service AGAIN this Saturday. The more informed I am when I walk up to the service counter, the better.
When I make a hard left turn (more than 90 degrees), I now hear a sound from the front left wheel area. It sounds sort of like the sound a plane makes when flying overhead. It's sort of like something is rubbing.
This started all of a sudden last Thursday. I thought it would go away. It doesn't sound normal and it doesn't happen when I turn right. It doesn't affect my steering. I don't recall hitting anything (note I sait recall).
Obviously, I got out of the truck and examined the entire area but I don't see anything unusual. I drove around in circles with my head out the window trying to figure this out.
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03 santa fe... During a stereo install the door panels were off and somehow we found a way to screw up the window switch. (the good new's is the stereo sounds awesome) and I can't pass it back onto the installer, he's my brother
all 4 windows stopped working, and of course, they are in the down position which complicates things just a bit
I checked the fuses but they seem ok at least on a visual, although I haven't eliminated that all together the likelihood that its a fuse, or multiple fuses is moving to the bottom of the list.
The window switch, it looks ok on a visual, anything obvious that I can check or look for ? No loose or crimped wires that I can spot.
If the switch itself somehow got fried I can get a replacement, but I'm hesitant to just go out and buy one right now (75ish + ship) and get it in the mail, to get the ball rolling, and god knows what the dealer would want for the part locally. I'll also check local salvage yard to see if at least I can get the part faster if it comes down to that.
Maybe when the new speaker wires were fished through the flex boot we disconnected or loosened the connector under the dash that goes to the switch ?
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After heavy rain yesterday my 2005 2.7 Santa fe wouldn't start today. Had it towed to nearby dealer. The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced. He claims its melted to the block and oil pan needs to be dropped to remove it.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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2002 My friend's 2.7L sante fe crankshaft position sensor went bad and I went to replace it. Removed bolt, it was stuck fast, tried to pry out and it broke off leaving the last 1/2 inch stuck in block. Tried drilling a hole in it and using a screw to get it out but no luck. Afraid to keep drilling that I might damage something behind it. How to get it out?
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I have searched and have not found any information on replacing the throttle position sensor. My Santa Fe was running normal. I changed my tp sensor and how it limps along. When I loosened the old TPS, not even removed it, I heard a noise inside the TPS. When I replaced it I adjusted the TPS to read between 9 and 10% on my reader. But when I push on the gas pedal with the key on position the percentage doesn't move. Also when I drive it now it limps along and does not accelerate.
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
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I just bought a b5.5 Passat 5-speed glx... fully loaded, a nice package. It has 67k. I just did the timing belt, valve cover gaskets, and cam tensioner adjuster gaskets. I park on a slanted driveway so the car sits on an angle all night. Only when i start up first in the morning, it makes the noise as if the oil isn't rushing up through the engine all the way, and makes the clicking noise in the motor..but any other startup throughout the day is fine.
Only the first in the am. you guys think its just because i park on a hill type driveway? What else it could be.. After I start driving for like 10 minutes, I also hear like a little whining/vacuum noise more noticeably in first gear, idk if that has anything to do with it? I haven't checked the oil level since i got the car back from the shop, but i know i should maybe they forgot to add an extra quart or something.
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Ok I have recently bought a 1998 Ford F-150 V6 4.2L 2WD and when the guy sold it to me the check engine light was on and he told me that randomly when you turn the key to the on position you will not hear the fuel pump buzzing sound and he knew it wouldn't start, he said you would have to turn the key from the on and off position many times until you hear this sound and then the truck will start and run fine.
First off I got the codes read and there were three of them P0171, P0174, and P1537 some things to note are that the drivers air bag looks like it had deployed, the cover is loose and when I pulled it back the air bag looks duct taped up inside there that would cause the air bag light to continuously flash while driving. I noticed the battery leads were corroded so I replaced the battery and put new battery clamps on both wires, after that the problem did not happen for a week and I though it was over but it happened again.
Next is that the truck has the PATS system and it did not come with a remote which I have also read that the PATS system can cause the fuel pump not to turn on but not sure if this would cause it to not start randomly because sometimes it starts right up. When I started to look at the simple things to fix I noticed it did not have an air filter in the housing. so I thought the MAF sensor could be dirty so I cleaned it with the special cleaner, I put sea foam into the intake via a vacuum hose and also have put a fuel system cleaner in a full tank and have driven most of the gas out. After putting in an air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor, and sea foaming the intake, it seems to run a bit better but I am still having the random fuel pump issue.
I have checked the fuses and the and the fuel pump and ECM relays both are fine. Today I put new exhaust on it because it had some bad exhaust leaks and the truck did not start again, so the guy trying to put my exhaust on, hit the fuel tank with a hammer and it didn't work then hit it again and it finally worked. Im not sure if the hitting it did it or if it just randomly turned on like always from turning the key on and off. The new exhaust has made a huge difference in driving it feels and sounds much better.
Also to note is that when I am stopped at stop lights it will idle at about 1500 and then it drops down to 500 and back up and back down again and it does this at most stop lights, and it is not an abrupt drop it just slowly idles down and back up again. Again once the truck is started it runs perfectly fine with no issues, and there are no specific times when it has the problem it seems to be randomly. I know that many people will tell me to change the fuel pump out and I am already prepared for this but if there is any easy things I haven't thought of yet...
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I am having a problem with my 2003 Santa Fe I have taken it to have the check engine light codes read and I have a code for the crankshaft position sensor, random misfires, something with gear 2 and 3 (not sure what it was exactly) it makes a loud noise when in 1st and 2nd gear when I shift out of 2nd the noise gets less and less until its gone and then does not come back until the car sits for a little while and cools down. Its running rough and does not have any power when accelerating. I had the timing belt changed a few weeks ago and it started running funny shortly after. I don't think the guy that did the timing belt knew what he was doing because I had to have someone go behind him and tighten the pulley.
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Getting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
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