Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Runs Rough / Lose Power And Will Not Take Any Throttle
Dec 8, 2012
I have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 259,000 miles. It does not get too cold here, however over the past few winters when the temp is below 50 at night the first minute or two of running out of the neighborhood is tough going unless I let it heat up. It has been getting worse over the past few years and now if its even 55 or 60 I need to let it heat up. Glow plugs? Injectors?
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My Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
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I was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
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Well today I have moved on to the next project on my 02 v6 4X4 Santa Fe, which is the rough running. When I got the car, it had CEL with codes for misfire #5 and lean condition codes. I noticed the wires were in need of replacement (one had black tape wrapped around it) so changed the plugs and wires. The 2 hoses, one that goes between the valve covers on the pass side and the hose between the valve cover and throttle body on driver side were both cracked so replaced them along with a few other vacuum lines, just because I had access to them. Cleared the codes and it still runs like crap, but after 112 miles, town and highway driving, there are no CEL codes. When its first started it idles at 1500 and sounds like its missing and has very little power going down the road. When it warms up seems to run a bit better but still nowhere close to what it should. Equal compression on all 6 cylinders and has power to all 6 injectors and tested to be sure there was a pulse to them as well. Coil packs all tested well. the exhaust is in bad shape and don't know if that would have any effect on how its running.
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I have a 2012 6.7 4x4,CC,SB, truck seems to run fine, I've only had the truck for a few months. The other day I laid into it and pulled hard, as I passed 3/4 throttle the truck backed off and didn't pull as hard. I backed off from full throttle back to 3/4 and it picked back up again.
Seems odd, I pulled a 1600 gallon water tank up a hill today and experienced the same thing again. I really don't understand why it would do this. I searched this and found one forum where several people experienced the same thing but no solution, all on stock trucks. I have a Spartan tuner an delete, I run the 80hp tune. Also when I got the truck I changed the oil, fuel filters, and air filter.
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The engine was running rough when it hit 2K RPM only. above and below it is fine. replaced the injectors/O2 sensor and it ran well for a couple of months but it is doing it again. when engine hits 2K rpm it will sputter and run rough. engine light gives me code 171 engine running rich or lean. What else to look at..
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Have a 2001 Civic DX, Manual Transmission, 228K miles. 1.7L SOHC.
Recently changed front motor mount and timing belt on the same day.
I noticed the car running rough and is only rough at certain RPM. Here are the rpm ranges it runs rough, 700rpm which is idle, 2200-2400rpm and 3400rpm approximately. It idles at 700rpm which I believe is the idle rpm on my car, so thinking my timing is not off. One more thing I noticed is if I have AC on and reving down in rpm it sounds like it is about to shutoff (never shuts off) and get a stronger vibration and same thing when I turn the AC on at idle. With ac on my rpm are 720rpm give and take a few. I been driving with above symptom for 300mi+ so far, even got it upto 95mph, don't know if it is an indication of anything. Got new spark plugs installed at 220K miles.
Could it be the motor mount or my harmonic balancer is out of balance. I did have to use 3/4" impact wrench to knock the harmonic balancer bolt loose. It is a little rusty given I got 228K miles on it.
I am just dreading the thought of my timing being off by a tooth, me and my friend checked the timing marks per oem manual, he checked the cam shaft pulley marks and I did the crankshaft. When we installed the timing belt I only turned the engine counter clockwise so I would not cause a problem with timing belt slack. My AC belt may be a little too tight as well.
The motor mount I put in was an aftermarket one that I bought from amazon. But I have put in aftermarket mount before on the same car and never had anything like this. I am planning to loosen the motor mount, shake the engine, tighten them back up and see if it makes a difference. May be the engine is not seated properly.
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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So I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
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Often, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 litre 4wd and am having a crazy problem. It has the automatic heating and air conditioning module (digital). The heater fan comes on as soon as i start the engine and runs in the 2nd highest speed. I can adjust it so it goes one speed higher but never lower than the one it comes on at and cannot shut it off. It operates the same under heat OR A/C modes. The temperatures adjust o.k. but it is always on. Where would i find the a/c control module? Could it be the transistor or resistor and where are they located?
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Just joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
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My daughters 2005 Hyundai Elantra has 77,000 miles om it. Just changed the wires and plugs, new brakes. Now, it runs very rough when stopped at a light and it is in gear. Now, when she has the AC running, and she stops at a stoplight, she has to put it in neutral or the engine will almost but not quite kill.
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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I have a Toyota echo 2001 , manual 4 doors, My question is about when I climb a normal road the engine lose force the I reduced the speed form 4th to 2nd in order to continue my way, It is like the car is towing a truck, It s turns very slow. My question IT IS NORMAL?
The ECU only shows the 0420 Code And I know that It is about the cat because I replaced it for a generic. And the O2 secondary sensor voltage is like a wave.
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
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