Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Repeated Air Conditioning Refrigerant Leaked Out
Jun 28, 2016
2004 Santa Fe, 130k, auto, 2.4L engine, FWD
Bought this car during the winter and didn't need to use the air conditioning until recently, which as you could guess blows warm. Filled up with R134a and all was good for a few days, nice and cold.
Then after about 5 days it was blowing warm again. About half of the refrigerant had leaked out. Looked like the schrader valve/valve core was leaking on the low side so pulled it out and put in a new one. Filled up with new refrigerant, same thing... lasted a few days and now warm air again.
Is there a common spot for leaks on this model? I know I need to get a can of r134 with dye in it to try and find the leak, but I heard it can be the evap core which you can't see openly. Do the hoses normally leak? should I replace all the O-rings, etc?
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I have an issue with my 2004 GLS 3.5 L w/ 68000 miles. After the SUV warms up for a few minutes I can hear a whine or rattle on the passenger side. I noticed a little power steering fluid leaked out the top of the reservoir (a few little bubbles in the oil). Then reading on the HMA website it says the filter in the reservoir can get clogged and restrict the flow. I took the reservoir off and flushed it out then replaced with new oil.
Unfortunately this did not fix the issue the noise is still there. It's most prevalent when you turn but the noise also picks up a little when you hit the gas. I have checked for hose leaks but cannot find one. My next step is to have the steering pump changed out. While the mechanics in there I am going to have him check the hoses/pulleys really close and look around for another leaks anywhere. Noise is annoying but the steering works fine.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
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