Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Recent Road Noise Getting Worse
Apr 21, 2012
Just bought a 2001 santa fe, 2.7 v-6, automatic trans, 2 wheel drive, new tires, 120,000mi. Got a great deal, don't want to negate that by nickle and dimming. 3 weeks ago noticed a howling from drivers front at speed, pitch changes with wheel speed not rpm so i figured wheel bearing. Took both front tires off with vehicle firmly supported and put vehicle in drive and increased rpm. The noise is not at hub but at other end where the shaft attaches to transaxle. I figured there would be an "axle bearing" or some such i could replace but I can find no reference of one, and my book doesn't have break down of the transaxle. Where can i find more information, schematics, etc? I hope I don't have to remove transaxle to have one pressed in.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
My wife and I recently purchased a '01 Santa Fe. We noticed that the gap between the passenger front door panel and dashboard is wider than the gap between the drivers door panel and dashboard. There is road noise that enters from the passenger side door. I believe the door latch is contacting the striker before it is fully closed.
What would be the best way to correct this? Move the striker or the latch? My wife will be spending about three hours a day everyday during the week in this vehicle and the road noise will annoy her until I get it fixed.
View 1 Replies
I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
View 11 Replies
Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
View 3 Replies
A few days ago, I started my wife's Santa Fe (106k miles) to warm it up and it had a rough idle. I gave it a test drive and the engine light came on and off a few times as it sputtered down the road. I retrieved the codes with my scan tool and it showed - P0300, P0304 and P0306. After some researching, I decided to change the coils, plugs and wires (under upper manifold) this coming weekend.
I have seen the web page instructions for doing this on a 2.7L [URL] .... but it has less stuff around the manifold compared to our Santa Fe. These instructions doesn't include coils was well since the plugs in front use just wires.
My question is.. Is there a set of instructions for the 3.5L for removing the manifold?.. From a less intense standpoint, maybe some of the hoses and cables can stay intact just to move the upper manifold or lift it to the side?... Also, Cyl 2, 4, 6 are the three sparks plugs in the front? 2004 Santa Fe 3.5l ....
View 78 Replies
I've got an 02 Santa Fe with the auto-dimming mirror. The tension that keeps the mirror in position has gotten loose, so the vibration from the road causes it to slowly move downward while driving.
Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
View 2 Replies
i have a 2014 Santa Fe 2.0t awd. When I first bought it it was getting 320-340 miles a tank after having it for 6 months now we are down to 250-260. The engine feels sluggish, however no codes, no change in driving habits.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2.2 CRDI Manual - new 2010 model - bought from new approx 16 months ago. Live in UK. Quite a few problems, which is a shame as I love the car. Tonight's question is about the clutch. Became increasingly difficult/impossible to get into 1st when cold, and wasn't clearing so car would slightly jolt forwards. Dealer had it in and replaced ?Slave cylinder. No better. Went in yet again for a week. This time ?replaced Clutch ?wheel (staff not that communicative, or apologetic, and ps had to also replace both front drive shafts too as clicking ++). Now at least the car is easier to get into gear, but pedal rather sponge like and significant "judder" when setting off in 1st at lowish revs, and worse when reverses. Surely this can't be normal - it's a new car after all. Back to the dealer later in the week, but what do I do if I become unhappy with the dealer?
View 4 Replies
It's only at higher speeds ( read highway travel ) that I have an issue with the road noise intruding into the cabin....mostly emanating from the rear, as best I can tell. I can live with it but I prefer not to.
I took my car to a buddy who operates a shop dealing with high-end stereo conversions, etc. Surprisingly, he said he deals with these issues all the time....including vehicles in all price ranges. He uses a product that he claims to be very effective at deadening the transfer of road noises. I had him look over my SF and make recommendations.
The product comes in fairly large sheets that are easily trimmed to conform to the spaces being treated. These sheets appear to be some sort of rubber based material. The product is applied to the inner surfaces of the car's exterior metal. Once applied ( primarily a gluing-on process ) the stuff adheres there, according to him, " for life ".
For application, he has to remove all the interior plastic pieces so he can get to the exposed body metal behind them. In my case, he would also do the rear doors so the interior door panels on those doors will also come off. Once he has access to all the areas he wants to get at, he preps the metal and glues on the product. According to him, getting all the plastic parts and door panels off, and then back on, is a snap.
View 26 Replies
I have been hearing the squeal when turning wheel all the way to either side for a while. Recently I changed all drive belts (incl. steering). Squeal started to get worse and squeal when I turn the while just a bit while stopped or pulling in and out of parking spot. I tightened the steering and alternator belt and did not work. I flushed the power steering pump and added new fluid and still won't stop.
Does it mean need new pump or problem with rack? Or is there a possibility for some other "quick fix"?
View 18 Replies
This is a 2001 Prius - car runs great and the AC is fine. However, driving down the road, when the AC is turned on there is a noticeable scraping/ticking noise - sounds like it coming from under the hood.
With the car parked, and the ignition ON, but without the gas engine running, there is no scraping noise.
View 4 Replies
2001 F250 7.3L 280k miles. Truck is new to me in the last 6 weeks. Was driving out to Glenwood Springs last night and I got a weird rear end vibration between 79 and 81 mph - couldn't say if it's a new vibration as haven't had the truck long enough. It's sort of still there over 81 but less obvious than bang on 80. Whilst the vibration was there I caught a slight dip in the road that caused a grinding noise to accompany the vibration - I'm guessing because something's was getting extra loading on the upside of the dip.
I'm away from home until Monday so my options are a bit limited, however while crawling around in the dark last night pushing and shoving stuff to see if anything was loose I noticed a couple of things:
Minor leak from pinion seal - but it has flung some spots of oil. Drive shaft 'center bearing'(? U shaped attachment on drive shaft to chassis with rubber bearing?) has play I can push the drive shaft at least a 1/4" with my hand and it seems a little sloppy but I'm no mechanic.
I'm going to check transmission fluid level today and top up if required and check the magnets, such that I can limp home as necessary avoiding 80 and get the diff checked and pinion seal replaced. Does the drive shaft bearing need changing or should it have that much play? I'm assuming it's LSD on the rear?
View 14 Replies
My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
View 12 Replies
For the last couple of weeks I've been hearing a weird noise towards the rear end of my car when I accelerate, seems like it's worse when I'm going uphill, sounds like a box of shoes moving freely in the trunk of the car. At first I thought it was something in my the trunk but I have nothing loose, the spare wheel and all attachment are pretty well secure. The only thing that I can think of is that the dealership installed the F Sport exhaust to it, but not sure if that should be making that type of sound. Sound is pretty low but it still manages to upset me, specially since my car has less than 3k miles on it.
View 2 Replies
Had the cams installed about a month ago, and haven't had a CEL on in the car since I got it.. has been 100% trouble free.
Drove about 30 mins somewhere tonight with nothing out of the ordinary, and after leaving my friends house about 3 mins down the road the CEL came on.. Car wasn't idling rough, didn't misfire, didn't sound rough at all.. I pulled over and re tightened the gas cap just incase that was the reason (hadn't driven the car in about 3 days) and drove off, made it home with nothing changed. on the way I did a few pulls in all gears, and the car had all its power, no weird sounds from the engine or exhaust.
Got home and scanned, and this is what I got :
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 022 906 032 EG
Component: United R32 G 6404
Coding: 0000132
Shop#: WSC 31414
1 Fault Found
16398 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0014 - 008 - Implausable signal
Readiness:0000 0000
So.. not sure if its anything serious or not, or where to start..
View 13 Replies
I have been trying to chase down a whirling noise that follows vehicle speed since I bought the truck in my sig in Oct. The noise happens whether or not the hubs are free or locked so I don't think it is the front needle bearings. I just changed the transfer case fluid over to Mobile 1 Syn. and there was no change in the noise. I also changed the front pads, rotors, slide pins and calipers a few weeks ago and that didn't have an effect on the noise either. Today I took the truck for a ride and I'm not sure but it seems almost like the noise is a bit louder! And I noticed that if I hit the brakes firmly, harder than a normal stop the noise gets significantly quieter and if I release them again the noise goes right back to normal. This has got me stumped...
Along with this noise, I have a vibration on the freeway that gets worse around 55 and lets off around 61. Its worse at some speeds and better at others. Thinking the two were related I pulled the rear drive shaft and checked the u-joints and the carrier bearing for play. The carrier bearing doesn't have any real play but there is quite a bit of slop, ability to turn back and forth, where the driveshaft comes out of the transfer case. All but one of the u-joint cups were fine. The bad one isn't even too bad just the rubber seal around it is a little off, there is still grease in it and the needle bearings seem fine.
View 14 Replies
So, I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix with about 104K miles on it, regular oil service and general maintenance. A few weeks back, my check engine light came on, took it in for diagnosis. The code was for the TCC, indicating a recent failure to shift properly. I've noticed no unusual behavior before or since the light came on, but I'm told that this is an indication of a failing transmission. My local transmission repair shop took it for a drive and said that this was probably the case as well. Estimates for a rebuild run in the 2200-2400 range. That said, I've also seen that it could be that I just need new transmission fluid. I had the fluid replaced, again, no noticeable shifting problems or unusual car behavior.
I'm wondering if
a) I should just drive and maintain the car as usual and if the light returns, then consider a rebuild or
b) begin to make preparations to get rid of the vehicle.
Bluebook estimates this in the 3-3500 range, so I'd assume it's sale value would be quite a bit less (perhaps less than the cost of a rebuild) for obvious reasons.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2005 V8 and in getting my latest service, a bunch of recalls were completed on the vehicle which seemed to screw up the locking/unlocking of the doors. In the past, the doors unlocked without having to hit any of the buttons on the key fob, but now, I get a 'chirp' from the car when I lock it, and have to click the unlock button once for the front doors and twice for the back doors. Is there anyway to revert back to the old way where just having the key close to the door unlocked it?
View 3 Replies
What could it be? Replace front brakes. Then they said it was front axels, replaced them. Making same noise... grinding and feels like you are hitting brakes when you are not. Sounds like metal on metal. What else can it be? 01 sante fe 180,000 miles v6 awd. It was doing it in reverse but after all of this now just in drive at slow speeds.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2004 3.5 V6 that is making a rattling noise when the car is in idle and/or about 1rpm. Sometimes, for awhile now , it kind of screams when I first start it...but not all the time. I know this is a loaded question but what do you think it might be? The screaming noises don't happen all the time, like I said, and very rarely happen together but the rattling is happening a lot!
View 1 Replies
So, I recently got my car serviced with balance shaft belt, 2 idlers, crank sensor, timing belt, spark plugs, ignition wires, and ignition coils. And now when i drive my car and accelerate it to about 3400 to 3500 rpm i get this rattling noise from my engine then when the rpm surpass that range i dont get any noise anymore. I really don't want to take it back to the shop and have to be charge for a diagnose but I am thinking it could be serpentine belt or loose of the down pipe.
View 6 Replies
