My rear brakes keep wearing out extremely prematurely (2,000-7,000 mile intervals) and have been for 60,000+ miles. (No joke my mechanic has warrantied the rotors and pads over and over literally like 10 times) its the insides pads of the back that wear down while the outsides and front are fine...is the proportioning valve causing this problem or is it something else? We've changed the calipers and brake hosed
View 17 RepliesThe rubber bushing (is it a bushing) at the top of the right rear shock on my 2002 Santa Fe is wearing away. Can I replace just that? Or do I have to do the whole shock? The shock itself seems fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat with 47,000 miles on it. The dealer tells me I need new rear brakes now, but the front brakes have 50% life left in them. When I asked why the rear brakes are wearing out so much faster, he said VW rear brakes always seem to wear out twice as fast. Is this true?
View 3 RepliesAt about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
View 10 RepliesJust replaced pads, rotors, caliper hardware, e-brake shoes and hardware and rear wheel bearing assembly on 2006 Santa Fe. Still get a high pitch sound after the car warms up in 5-10 miles. Sound is intermittent and gets somewhat louder as you drive.
View 2 RepliesI have a 02 Prius and the driver's side brakes are wearing twice as fast as the passengers side. Some times if I have to stop quickly the brakes pads continue to apply pressure on the rotor when the brakes are released. After a little drive they seem to go back to normal. Is this a sign of a bad caliper or master cyl.? I know before I purchased the car the front brakes and rotors were done, but they used after market parts
View 5 RepliesTook my Prius to the local dealer for 50,000 mile service and got a call that both of my front brake pads were worn below the limit and needed replacing. This surprised me as I have read here and elsewhere that some go 100,00+ miles before needed replacement. So I had them replaced and when I went to pick it up, asked them how much was left on the front brakes the last time I was in, which was for my 45,000 service. After looking it up, guy told me they measured 8mm in February, meaning I went from 8mm down to needing to be replaced in the span of like 9 months after driving 5,000 miles. Even the guy at the dealership seemed surprised when we looked it up. Could there be some underlying issue causing abnormally fast break wear? I vaguely remember getting the brakes adjusted related to some TSB in the spring.
View 19 RepliesI bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
View 3 RepliesMy car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
I'm trying to figure out why I am having problems with my read tires wearing fast. I knew my car was out of alignment and took it to a shop and they told me I have -1.05 negative toe and bad camber.
Can some shims fix my issue or would I be better with a whole new rear beam. As far as I know the car has never been lowered, but how would I be able to tell?
What's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
View 11 RepliesAbout a week ago I had my car on a hoist getting new exhaust tips installed. At that time I noticed the rear tires are wearing prematurely on the inner edges. So are the fronts but not nearly as bad as the rears. I asked around and was told that this is normal for the factory Pirellis because of the negative camber built in to our cars. This being the reason the car corners so well. I understand the physics of this and I really like the way the car corners. My question is this---Can the negative camber be taken out of the car thusly reducing wear on the inner edges of the tires?? And how much will this be noticed while driving the car normally, and during spirited driving?? I have noticed that some fellows will purposely mod their cars with increased negative camber on the rear wheels, I'm assuming this is to achieve a certain "look".
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.7 v6. About 2 months ago I started the car and it was kind of a rough start. It usually starts right up. I was driving in the rain and when I would press the brakes the car would shudder like it wanted to turn off but the head lights and dash lights did not flicker. I had it towed to my mechanic. He found a broken vacum hose and replaced it. The car seemed fine.
Today it started up kinda rough and then would shudder and not accelerate no matter how hard I pressed on the gas pedal. It was also idling roughly.
I bought the car from a friend who was the first and only owner. She has ALL of the service records and took good care of it. It has about 120k miles on it. The spark plugs and battery are only about a year old. It has a half tank of gas. I checked all fluids, pulled a few plugs and they look fine too. Air filter is clean too.
I asked the previous owner if she had ever changed the fuel filter and she said she didn't think so. I reviewed the service records (assuming I have them all) and it doesn't look like it was ever done. I have run seafoam through it 3 times since I bought it last August. I change the oil regularly and rarely let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2005 2.7L 4WD ABS.
The problem is that the Brakes pedal is so soft, that it goes to the floor, and doesn't brake at all in first pedaling. I am able to apply brakes after pumping the pedal thrice in continuation and then when it builds up some pressure, then it brakes and I'm able to stop the car. Once, I take the foot out of the pedal, it goes bad again. Once, again if I have to apply brakes, I have to do 3-4 times pedaling.
The brakes are stopping the car fine when they get applied in 3rd or 4th pedaling and when pressure is built up. Its the pressure not getting built up or maintained in the first go.
What has been done by the mechanics to solve this:
1. Master Cylinder has been replaced with a new one. (This has been done twice)
2. Brake Pads have been changed.
3. Brake fluid has been replaced and is upto the brim in cylinder reservoir.
When i press the brake pedal the brakes seem to start working ,but they dont apply enough pressure to actually stop the car from speed , it's just happened car was fine yesterday , also i've noticed when i start the car , and press pedal with my hand there is a air leak noise behind the pedal , and a faint low pitched tone noise as well , its as if the servo isnt working fully.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe, I have been having issues with the power. I tap the brakes and the lights go dim and come back on. Then when the truck is turned off then back on I have nothing like the truck is dead. I replaced the battery and still same issue. I then replaced the alternator and I thought it was good. Just today I decided the use the keyless remote to lock the truck and it locked but not horn sound. I tried to unlock the truck with the remote and nothing. I opened the door and no lights. Turn the key and nothing. The battery still has power to hit. What it could be?
View 6 Replies2002 Santa Fe has Shimmy when applying brakes. Had tire balanced and rotated-no change. New brakes with life time pads one year ago. Rotors were turned. Should I replace the rotors and pads or just rotors? Am I on the right track for repairs?
View 2 Replies2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
I was going to replace rotors and pads. found the calipers seized. took them apart, cleaned and regreased. Pads were fine. Problem is that both front brakes don't grip rotor. Back brakes work fine...
View 2 Replies2003 Sante Fe is suddenly having a problem at stop lights or anytime the car is stopped with brakes. It feels as if the car is going to stall - or back fire. Very evident since it pulls on the brake pedal - just had back brakes replaced.
View 1 RepliesOn my 2009 Matrix XR (2.4L), my right rear brake pad is wearing unevenly. I'm up to 87000 km (54000 miles). My first pad change was one year ago. I kept the pads and only noticed this time that the wear was at an angle on the outer pad, both times.
The inner pad is ok.
Multiple pictures below:
The other pictures: