Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Radiator Fan Would Not Turn On
May 28, 2016
My daughters radiator fan would not turn on, and I isolated it to this connector that connects the radiator fan to the wiring harness. The problem is that I've tried for a hour trying to unplug the darn thing, but it won't come apart. I've opened the two covers on each side and see the burnt wire, but I've been pinching the little pincher thingy and pulling and it won't come apart. I see Hyundai has a replacement connector (91200-26000-fff) but the dealers are now closed till Tuesday. Need to get it apart & is replacing with another connector from an auto parts store advised?
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I have a 2006 2.7 gls awd santa fe ,the alternator bearing went bad and got stuck took the alternator to a repair shop to get fixed, put it back on the santa fe the alternator worked just fine now i have the radiator fan and ac fan not working, I turn the ac on and none of then work I wait for the car to heat up and nothing happens I check the radiator fan by connecting it directly to the battery and it works fine ,i have swap the horn relay with the radiator relay and it is working fine. I will check net the fuses, then the thermostat and later on the temperature sensor.
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Today I noticed my 2003 santa fe was leaking coolant. I got under it and noticed it was coming from a small red cap under the radiator on the driver side. I figured it was the drain cap. It's kinda hidden so it will be hard to remove and replace so any tips on how to do this.
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
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So a few days ago, I decided to check the anti-freeze for adequacy. It was just replaced with the timing belt / water pump job; but I'm a pilot, and I'm accustomed to checking things for myself. Lo and behold, the hydrometer didn't even register. I thought it was stuck, but then I noticed the oily film, and got scared. And then as I investigated further, I got puzzled.
The car had been driven maybe 500 miles since the timing belt / water pump job, had not overheated, and had not lost any coolant. The level in the radiator was up to the cap. Also, there was no oil at all in the radiator (at least that I could detect), and the concentration tested fine. But there was oil in the reservoir -- but it didn't look like crankcase oil. It was clear -- like water -- and felt a bit thinner than crankcase oil. Also, the outlet at the bottom of the reservoir was clogged.
There also was some sealant in the reservoir (it looked like the BarsLeak tablets), but none that I could detect in the radiator. That in itself doesn't bother me because a lot of people (including me) routinely toss a few tablets in the coolant -- Saturn used to do it from the factory -- but it does suggest at least the possibility of a previous coolant leak that someone treated with BarsLeak.
At the moment, there's no evidence of coolant loss, no water in the exhaust, no water in the oil, and no oil in the radiator. I haven't done a compression test. I did change the plugs, and there were no obvious coolant deposits on them. They were carbon-fouled, but considering that the PCV valve was clogged and the mileage on the plugs, that didn't surprise me.
So what I'm postulating is that the previous owner's son (who was the primary driver of the car) mistakenly poured some sort of engine oil additive, power steering additive, or something else intended for use elsewhere, into the reservoir; and the mechanic who did the timing belt and water pump didn't notice it (which also kind of bothers me).
The fact that the power steering pump had a bit of chatter would tend to reinforce that hypothesis. I've been doing a gradual replacement of the power steering fluid, which seems to have quieted things down. It was black as tar when I started, so I probably should completely replace it. I may do that this coming weekend. In any case, I removed, cleaned, and unclogged the coolant reservoir, replaced it, refilled it, and everything seems fine. It's kind of baffling, though.
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As I fill my radiator it quickly leaks on top where the black plastic area is. Does that require a radiator replacement? 2005 Santa Fe ....
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2002 Santa Fe with 140K. Superbly well maintained.
I notice . Looked all around....then on the radiator toward the top where the metal meets the plastic. I noticed wetness across the entire radiator. Thought it may be coming from the upper hose and spreading across....Replaced the upper hose....Not the problem.
Still has anti freeze seeping across the radiator / plastic area. Does the mean the entire radiator needs replacing? I have searched the forums and seems like no one had replaced a radiator on the Santa.
Is the radiator breaking down. Oh, it's NOT the water pump.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 3.5L engine and 92,000 miles.
For the past week or so, I have noticed a very slight smell of antifreeze/radiator fluid every once in a while. I assumed that it is a radiator hose leak or possibly a leak in the heater core. But, the vehicle does not overheat, there is no steam or fog inside that would indicate a possible heater core leak, and the radiator fluid level seemed full or almost full (although the radiator overflow container was empty). I added a little water to the radiator and filled the overflow container to make sure there was plenty of radiator fluid in the system.
I haven't seen any radiator fluid on the ground around the vehicle at anytime. When I open the hood, I don't see any leaking hoses. I took off the engine cover to see better, and I don't see any leak around the water pump, or dripping from the pump, or dripping from any hoses, etc. But, BELOW the water pump is something made of cast metal that I am guessing is the automatic transmission(?) -- I really don't know what it is. And, sitting in some valleys or crevices in that part are small pools of green fluid that clearly looks and smells like radiator fluid with antifreeze.
I ran the vehicle for a long time while watching to see if I could create or see the leak or anything dripping etc. But I don't see anything other than
those pools of green liquid just sitting there. I tried moving or wiggling the hoses, and nothing changed. I also tried keeping it running with the heat on high, then later with the AC on high -- still no change. Then I tried using paper towels and sopping up what I could that was in these valleys/crevices, then I drove it again (but only for about 4 miles so far) and I don't see any new fluid in the crevices or anywhere else.
Here are 5 photos that I took with the engine cover off while the green fluid was still there. The photos go from a wider angle overall view down to a view of the green puddles from a slight angle and then down to a top view of the green puddles.
[URL] ....
Where you may see dark areas on the water hoses near the water pump, they are just shadows created by the flash or the sun or whatever. The hoses themselves are all one color and are not wet etc.
My questions:
Am I correct that where the small green puddles are is the automatic transmission?
Is it possible that there is some connection between that (the automatic transmission(?)) and the radiator cooling system?
Is it possible that the cooling system somehow also cools the automatic transmission (or whatever that is)?
If so, could the leak be right there -- maybe where that bolt or the other wire/connection piece is -- and the radiator fluid is coming UP from there? What this may be or where the leak is coming from?
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I was teaching my kid how to drive in a parking lot and noticed white smoke coming from the front when parked. There seems to be a leak on the top side of the radiator, where the plastic top connects to the aluminum body. I also noticed that radiator fan does not come up at all. Outside temp was around 40F but I would think it should have come on when driving at 5-15 mph in a parking lot for 1+ hours. Temp gauge is on the left side of the middle indicator so technically the engine is not overheated, unless the temp probe is bad. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? I have a 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L GLS FWD.
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We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
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My 2004 Santa Fe seems to be leaking oil only when I turn on the vehicle. I don't see any oil under the vehicle, however, I see white smoke coming out mostly from under the vehicle on the passenger side and I can smell the oil inside the cabin. I haven't experienced any power loss. How to better diagnose the problem?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe with manual (knob) A/C control panel. the problem i am having is that when i turn the A/C on the A/C light on the control panel comes on and it works fine but in the last few months i have noticed that the A/C light will turn off intermittently. This almost seems like the A/C button has a bad contact because i just touch it and the light comes on and I feel cold air again.
1. I have not taken the panel our but is this serviceability or do I need to replace the whole control unit?
2. Also is this a dealer or junk yard part only or are the there third party manufacturers for it?
3. Since i have the manual control and if i have to replace the unit can i order the digital (push button) control and just easily connect it or is it more involved that that. like i might have to replace other components for the digital control to work or modify the opening or what not.
I do not believe this is the compressor because it seems more related to the the A/C button itself. I checked refrigerant and everything seems ok.
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So We just got this car from a used dealer 10 days ago!!! Already has multiple issues even though it only has 115K miles on it!
1. Brake lights will not turn off! All 3 rear lights stay fully on even with no power unless I disconnect the battery or remove the fuse. Made sure all the doors are closed and the trunk is too. Only way to keep it from killing the battery has been to take the fuse out when I park, then putting it back in when I leave, but wife usually drives it so it needs to be fixed ASAP.
2. AC blew a fuse after 3 days!! They claimed to have replaced the compressor, but I cant understand how a fuse blows on the AC. Is this normal or just a fluke?
3a. There is an on off switch next to the drivers right leg along the center panel to the left of the radio. It's a simple on off switch, but I dont see it anywhere in the manual. Is this a switch to turn on the 4WD?? I can't figure out what it is for.
3b. only the 2 right side window switches also dont work. They work with the drivers main panel. I assume its the switches in the doors that are bad and I need to replace them? Hope that will not be too much drama to find and do.
4. It has a preinstalled video dvd system. It only turns on when the engine is on, or key is in on position, but when I restart the car it has to reboot and reload! Any way to rewire it or jump the fuse / relay so it's always on standby and getting power so it doesn't do this? Which fuse is for this unit??
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2003 2.7 ... Started and was running and the brake light and battery flickered and AR died. Now key does nothing. Tried new battery and nothing. If you put key in it chimes and does nothing else. Things that don't need a key work like hazards and horn and parking lights come on but turning the key has no effect. It's seems to not have power in the on or start position of the key. What does this point to? Ignition switch? Short somewhere?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe with around 140,000 miles on it. I've had my share of problems with it, but the last couple of years have been fine until this morning. I tried to start it and appeared to have full battery power, but it would not turn over. Instead of a clicking sound, it was more of a whining sound it made while it tried to start. I took the battery into AutoZone and they told me it was dead, so I bought a new one and replaced it after cleaning the connector cables. The same thing is still happening with the new battery. I've attempted to jump it as well.
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Ok so my santa fe is doing some weird things. No dashboard lights work the car wont turn over, it has new battery new starter new ignition and no fuses are blown. Basically it seems electronically dead.
My mother in law was driving it and it just killed, my brother in law changed the starter and battery first then the ignition switch.
I have been working on cars for 15 years and i've never come across this problem.
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L
When the headlights are on the left turn signal stays on(but does not blink). The right turn signal functions ok. With the headlights off both signals function normally. The headlights work correctly.
This issue happened once a year ago but just started reoccurring two days ago.
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How can i turn off check engine light (hyundai santa fe 2003 3.5) by fuse ? I do not have any code scanner.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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Recently I changed the spark plug and I made a mistake crossing the spark plug wires. here I noticed that the check engine warning don't turn on.
Also I had other problem with idle air valve and also the check engine warning don't turn on.
The light is working fine because when I acct the key it is turning on. The problem is detecting a fail it don't turning on.
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