We have a 2006 Santa Fe Hyunda with 100,000 miles that when we hit 80 mph on the highway the rpms drop to zero and stay there. We just had the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Why this is happening?"
View 3 RepliesI have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
Bought a 2006 2.4L Sante Fe a few months ago. Had a couple incidents of it jerking after descending the same hill in our neighbourhood. Have a 6 month warranty so brought it to mechanic. All their "scans" were showing everything working so they guessed at replacing the fuel pump and filter. A week later did the same thing but this time it stalled out and I had to jump start to get it back to garage. My wife scanned the internet and noticed other similar complaints. The crankshaft position sensor seemed to come up as being replaced in these incidences, and apparently the "scan" will not show it as failed if it is still somewhat operable. Based on that, we told the garage to replace it as they literally could not figure out what was wrong with the car, having driven it over several days for it to repeat the jerking and stalling we had experienced. It has only been a few days so here's hoping that was the answer.......
View 1 RepliesI jump started my santafe becouse the battery was weak. After it started the check engine light on the dashboard came on and it stays on. What could the problem be.
View 1 RepliesI own 2005 Santa Fe. Vehicle is a 3.5l V6. 90,000 miles. Transmission flushed few months ago. Few weeks ago I notice that transmission jump hard and bucked on cold start then smooth out once the engine warm up. Is it normal? if not what could be a problem.
View 3 RepliesThe other day I was driving my Santa Fe. I noticed the RPMs went up and then the car started slowing down, so I pulled over. Since then the car won't drive. Engine starts up but the car won't move at all. When I push the gas pedal I hear the engine revving, but no movement in drive or reverse. No check engine light, and I checked the transmission fluid, looks and smells good. I checked and it has no transmission pressure. I verified by removing the transmission cooler lines and shifted the truck in all gears. Nada. Could it be the filter, a sensor or the torque converter? Or am I looking at having to replace the whole transmission?
View 21 RepliesThis all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe LX with 214,000 miles on it. In general, I am having two problems which are most likely related. I would like to get opinions on what is causing the problems, how to fix the problems, and what the cost might be for the fix. This is an older car and I don't want to bring it to a mechanic to just do searching.
1. RPMs fluctuate quickly at slower speeds in town stop and go traffic and while parking in Drive or Reverse. Fluctuation can be between 1000 to 2000 and 3000 RPMs back and forth.
2. Car stalls while sitting at stops when in Drive. When car stalls, RPMs have suddenly decreased to 0 (zero).
3. RPMs fluctuating and car stalling typically occur after I have made my first stop and have turned off the car.
There is also a Check Engine Light Code: P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. I changed the vehicle speed sensor a few months ago.
Here are the details of what has been happening, when it happens, and what I have tried.
- When RPMs fluctuate, the car slowly accelerates and slows down and I can hear revving high and low. This happens when the RPMS fluctuate just a few RPMs around 1000 and when the RPMs are fluctuating up to higher RPMs.
- After the car has been driven for about 45 minutes and car is at slower speeds, RPMs will fall to zero while at stop and in Drive, and the RPM fluctuation will begin.
- RPMs jump to 2000 or 3000 and stay there but do not fluctuate when car is put in Park and Neutral.
- When car is in Park and at 2000 or 3000 RPMs, car takes a few extra seconds to turn off.
- Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal and will accelerate up to 40 mph.
- Car will sometimes lurch at slower speeds of 15, 25, and 35 mph when RPMs are fluctuating or when the gas pedal is pressed.
- When RPMs are fluctuating and at 1000 or higher and I am pressing the brake to slow down, the car fights in Drive and in Reverse.
- RPM fluctuation does not occur at interstate speeds.
- A couple days ago, when I was at interstate speeds of 60 to 75 mph and pressed the gas pedal, the car would stutter and jerk.
- RPM fluctuation and stalling primarily do not occur when the car is started at the beginning of the day or when the car has been off for several hours.
- Twice In the last week the RPM fluctuation and stalling occurred even after car was not started for several hours and after only about 5 to 10 minutes of driving in town stop and go traffic.
- Sometimes car stalls when I'm at a stop and slightly press the gas pedal to start driving.
- There are times in town traffic when the car is operating normally and is at 750 RPMs at stop, then the RPMs suddenly decreased from 750 to 0 (zero) and the car stalls.
- From Neutral, sometimes when I simultaneously put the car in Drive and press the gas pedal either by feathering or forcefully pressing pedal 3/4 to the floor, the car would have a delayed reaction to accelerate but would not shut off.
- After car has stalled, if I try to start it right away, the car cranks but does not start for about 5 minutes.
- The time between stalling and being able to get the car to turn back on has increased over time from starting up at first crank to not starting for 5 minutes.
- If I let the car sit for 3 to 5 minutes after it has stalled, the car starts up but takes a couple seconds to start while pumping the gas pedal.
- Issues have been happening since November but are getting more frequent.
- Stalling is happening more frequently and within minutes of each other.
I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
Codes currently on ecm: P0134, P2125, P1174, P0735 My 2003 Santa Fe 2wd 3.5l with 160,000 miles was driving fine, then all the sudden whenever I reach about 3500 rpms there's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from near or in the automatic transmission. As for the codes: P0134- I just replaced the o2 sensor with an oem part from autozone, so not sure why that's popping up. The connections look fine. P2125 and P1174- I'm trying to figure out whether the accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor needs to be replaced. I have a multimeter but don't know if that will be able to tell me which one is out. The P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio and grinding noise at 3500 rpms is what I am mostly worried about though. Could a transmission flush work with that?
View 2 Replies2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
I have a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Camry with around 108,000 miles. The other day, with the heating on, I felt it little lurch as well as a small jump in rpms at times while rolling on idle. This seemed to occur right after a hissing sound stopped after it sounded, pretty quietly, from the rear of the car for a couple seconds. To me it seems like the kind of a lurch I sometimes get when turning off the AC, which makes sense because the AC turning off reduces strain on the engine.
It's definitely not some really bad problem and no lights are on, but something I'm a little worried about nonetheless.
2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
My mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Santa Fe that for the last week or so has been slipping/jerking at about 2500rpms (2nd and 3rd gear). This only happens after the car has been warmed up and running for 20 minutes or so. I have put it into manual and it does not do this, only when in auto.
View 2 RepliesMy wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
View 6 Replies2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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