what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
View 7 Replies2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
My 2001 Santa Fe is having some major issues with rough idling, and there is a fairly significant oil leak. The check engine light is not on. In the past year it has had a new fuel pump, fuel filter, valve gasket covers, spark plugs, spark plug cables, and transmission.
View 2 RepliesLong time 2004 Santa Fe owner here (LX 3.5 liter):
I have an issue where after a cold start the engines idles a little higher than I'm normally used to. I think it idles at sub-1000 RPM, but now it's more like 1200-1500 RPM. Adding to this it seems to vibrate/throb every 2-3 seconds. It's very slight and unless you've been driving the car for a while you'd probably wouldn't notice the change. I'm used to a steady idling, so this pulsating sensation is new to me. Once I kick it into drive the car is perfectly fine, idles at 500-600 RPM at stop lights, etc., and starting it up after running errands after a few hours in the store yields no problems either. It only happens after a really cold start, say 8 hours or so.
I took it to the shop, all they could find was a slightly under-voltaged battery which they replaced, but the issue still occurs. The only thing I remember doing different around the time frame of when this started happening was add STP Multi-Purpose treatment into the gas tank. I can't imagine a fuel additive having such a dramatic impact though, but who knows.
At idle, (600 RPMs, might need to bring it up?) the motor is Real rough, but doesn't stall out, just very "wobbly" Once the car is brought up to the 900-1000 RPM range everything flattens out, and at driving speeds it drives great! Pulled up to 90 mph on the high way, and passed a few cars on some back roads and everything ran great, until I hit idle.
It threw a code for the Cam Position Sensor after I tried to restart the car, and the person who work on this car before me had zip tied the connector into the sensor because he had broken it. Low and behold, you cant buy just the replacement part of the harness.
I tried to get the wires all plugged back in, and the CEL went away, but the idle was still pretty rough. Also, at idle, the oil light flickers just a bit.
2003 Sante Fe is suddenly having a problem at stop lights or anytime the car is stopped with brakes. It feels as if the car is going to stall - or back fire. Very evident since it pulls on the brake pedal - just had back brakes replaced.
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L manual transmission with 200,000km on it has this hard to explain noise when in gear and coasting. This is when my foot it off the gas and say I'm going down a slight incline. There is a pulsating humming noise, worse in the lower gears that coincides with the engine holding the car back. This only seems to happen during coasting and not when down gearing to slow down. And even when coasting if I press even ever so slightly on the gas so the engine is not holding the vehicle back, it goes away.
The clutch has never been replaced and I'm somewhat assuming it may be the clutch becoming worn.
I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
View 11 RepliesA few days ago, I started my wife's Santa Fe (106k miles) to warm it up and it had a rough idle. I gave it a test drive and the engine light came on and off a few times as it sputtered down the road. I retrieved the codes with my scan tool and it showed - P0300, P0304 and P0306. After some researching, I decided to change the coils, plugs and wires (under upper manifold) this coming weekend.
I have seen the web page instructions for doing this on a 2.7L [URL] .... but it has less stuff around the manifold compared to our Santa Fe. These instructions doesn't include coils was well since the plugs in front use just wires.
My question is.. Is there a set of instructions for the 3.5L for removing the manifold?.. From a less intense standpoint, maybe some of the hoses and cables can stay intact just to move the upper manifold or lift it to the side?... Also, Cyl 2, 4, 6 are the three sparks plugs in the front? 2004 Santa Fe 3.5l ....
My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
View 10 RepliesI'm having this cold start issue with my 2001 SF, but it doesn't seem to be fuel related like as the car starts fine but after about literally 1-2seconds the RPMs drop below 1k and the car will stall if I don't put my foot on the accelerator and keep it around 1000-2000 RPMs. But if I happen to make the revs go too high and let them drop again it seems like it wants to stall even easier. After about 30 seconds it smoothens out and drives almost perfectly except for a slight lack of power than normal going uphill (A.T drops to 2nd gear, sometimes 1st depending on the incline). We have had the coolant temp sensor and the fuel pressure sensor replaced. Could it be the MAF? We did clean it one time but it didn't seem to work much at all. Recently out of curiosity, I disconnected the MAF sensor and started the car it being started for a few days. No issue with idling whatsoever!.. ??
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 santa fe I just replaced the cat. in it because it was running so poorly. Now that I've replaced the cat it seems to be worse. The car idles real rough, and cant get it to go over 2000 rpms. No engine light. Had the codes checked and all came out fine. I pulled out the plugs and replaced with new. The car in park ran great until I put it in gear then went back to the same no power, rough idle and cant get more than 2000rpm with out a stall. Stalls but dose not die. Disconnected the pre o2 sensor no change.
View 2 RepliesI have 130K miles on my Santa Fe. I just replaced the timing belt without the water pump being replaced. Picked it up from the mechanic and the check engine light was on and it was idling very rough. Left it there for him to recheck. He said maybe he didn't plug in the Cam Sensor all the way or at all. Next day he called me and said that the cam sensor was bad and he replaced it for free. Picked up the vehicle and the idle was a little rough but got worse on the ride home.
View 1 RepliesWe are at 120K miles. The vehicle runs fine most of the time, but every once in 10-15 starts, it will rough idle or stall after a short warm up time when my wife stops at an intersection. Once she restarts it, it runs fine.
I have changed the spark plugs and wires, the fuel pump, the crankshaft position sensor (was fried) and after consulting this forum, I checked the fuel pressure regulator and the diaphragm is not leaking.
I was able to recreate the rough idle and the CEL on the dash, but my two OBDII readers said there were no codes And the bluetooth reader I am using is indicating that the following tests are not completing: Fuel System, Catalyst, Evaporative System and Oxygen Senors.
The dash CEL resets itself upon restart and does not light until the symptoms return.
After reading the Haynes Repair Manual, I am wondering about the Evaporative Emissions Control (EVAP) system? But I don't want to lead the troubleshooting.
We bought the vehicle at 60K miles and it has been mostly reliable.
Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 SF/2.4 I4. When the car warms up, the ignition coil sparks between the rubber boot and the coil itself, drawing the spark from the plug and resulting in a misfire. This is especially apparent when the A/C is running and the car is idle-ing, resulting in the A/C turning off and a rough jumping idle. Once the car is running this is not noticeable and the A/C turns on.
I have changed the spark plugs to new autolite plugs, and the situation disappeared for a day, but now it is back. I ordered OEM NGK Laser Iridium plugs, I hope they will fix the situation. Why would the A/C matter? Next on the list will be the ignition coil and wire change, but I hope to avoid that.
When I turn on the defrost in my 02 santa fe, the engine smokes. when i'm parked and turn on the defrost, the car stalls out.
What I think is the timing belt seems to be making a funny noise, and my wife thinks she saw the smoke coming from there. it looks to be in good shape, though.
Well all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.