Driving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
View 4 RepliesMy Volvo with 167,000 miles lost power and almost stalled at approx. 3,000 feet in elevation driving up to the mountains from sea level. Check Engine Light came on and after getting off highway and letting it sit for a bit, it started right up and made it down to sea level without a problem. Volvo Dealer could not locate problem. Codes 3503,3513,3523 were showing up. Same problem 1.5 years ago and at that time they replaced radiator, coils, and spark plugs. They said it was not that again, however, they do not know what it is. Car has been faithfully serviced and I want to keep it. I volunteer for a seal rescue non-profit and need a reliable car!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
View 4 RepliesMy 03 2.7 has suddenly lost around 4 MPG in city driving. Haven't taken it out on the highway to know where that is at. Used to get around 20/21 and now I'm around 16/17. Mileage is at 97k now and has new spark plugs and brakes done recently. I know the brakes are not dragging. All the fluids are fairly new and the car drives the same as before, I can't feel a difference in performance. Just lower gas mileage. I haven't changed out the T-stat yet, but the temp gauge in car reads the same as always. I checked the car with a code checker and there are no pending codes. I know this is the age where the oxygen sensors could start to go bad and have never replaced them.
View 12 Replies2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
View 2 RepliesToday I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
I purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
I have a 01 SF 2.4 4cyl. I just returned from a road trip in which my engine light came on. The codes read for mixture too rich and bad MAF sensor. I took it into the shop and has a new MAF sensor installed, full tune up and oil change. I picked it up yesterday. After just 16 miles the engine light came on again, this time reading mixture too lean. Now, at 35 miles since servicing, while trying to drive home, it would rev up and down, then completely stalled, and now it will start, but not stay running. It made a 4000 mile trip even with a bad MAF and rich codes, but now can't even make it 40 miles.
View 6 Replies2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
View 14 RepliesCheck engine light on, car stalled once. Pulling code p0320 "Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction." Tachometer works intermittently. Where do I start?
View 2 Replies2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
View 2 RepliesI have a Santa fe 2002 crd 2.0 4x4 and recently had a lot of black smoke and a loss of power when driving, it starts fine but when revving it blows black smoke from exhaust and has no power to pull away, been told its possible turbo problem or fuel problem.
View 1 RepliesBought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
My problem is my 2001 Santa Fe petrol 2.7 L its done over 300,000 km one day it sounded like a click when driving, then when I started it cold in the morning it was missing [not running right] and had no power until it warmed up the spark leads are not that old anyway I put new spark plugs in it it seem to run a lot better but seems to be down on power on hills I think coils are ok? the motor not smokey but burn little bit of oil.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe, 2.4L. I think some snow got onto the power window switch panel, then melted and fried something. While driving, the driver side window will go down by itself. What's more, when I turn my headlights on, the window goes down as if the headlight switch is the switch for the window.
How I could fix this? Is there a way to disable the power window altogether? I'd rather do that in the meantime if it's going to require some expensive diagnosis and fix from the mechanic.
I have been experiencing an intermittent problem with the power steering on my 2002 Santa Fe. It seems to happen in the rain or when driving through puddles...the power steering seems to lock up for a short period, usually lasting only seconds. It has only been a nuisance so far, but it could be a major safety issue if it happens at the wrong time.
- 112K miles
- PS Fluid looks full