Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Pops And Sputters After Washing Engine - Misfiring
Mar 9, 2014
In my 2003 3.5 awd I successfully got my used transmission in and running great. I made the mistake of washing the engine. Now, it runs like Cr@p. It pops and sputters. At one point the CEL came on with 7 codes mostly misfires. It ran ok prior to the bath but I am getting ready to do the timing belt and wp and plug wires. In the meantime, whats the most likely cause of misfires after a hosing down on these engines? I'm leaning towards plug wires or coils...
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My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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The shifter will not usually stay in 5th gear for very long. The clutch and flywheel were replaced a few weeks ago just before i purchased the car but this problem has only cropped up in the last week. Could it be shifter linkage adjustment?
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I have a 97 chevy silverado with a 305 v8. She wont start!! The truck sat for a year then i got it the other day. We replaced the sparkplugs and put new gas in the truck. The truck has spark, but it wont run. It pops and sputters when you put starting fluid in the intake but wont run. The old plugs some were wet and some weren't. All were black. I checked the fuel system, the pump runs as it should, and I checked the access valve and it has tons of fuel pressure. But wont run. There are no codes. Is it the distributor? Or is it the fuel pressure regulator?
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In the last year and a half I have developed a problem with my truck missing under a very specific condition. It only happens when the humidity is 100%, either right before, during, or after rain. When it's at 100% humidity outside, the first time I start the car for the day it starts missing. This continues until the truck comes up to full temperature, usually a about three or four miles, then it clears up. By the way, snow doesn't cause this unless its mixed with rain.
My mechanics are at a loss, say there is no info on the diagnostics. Since this started, I have had an inclusive tune up, they replace all plugs and wires, I've had all belts and the pulley replaced, and I've changed the intake air filter twice.
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My car is misfiring, codes p0171 and p0300 come up on the code reader. It idles rough and has very little power. I have checked my exhaust , it is not plugged. When I unplug coil #2 while idling there is no change as to the engine performance so I switched the coils around with no difference when coil is unplugged on cylinder #2. I have changed the plugs, there is power to the coil, all plugs are firing and when removed plugs 2 and 3 are wet with fuel indicating I am getting fuel and fire. I have replaced the cam sensor with no change.
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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i have a 2008 santa fe with a 2.7 61,000 miles 2nd owner ,out of warranty. It started missing and the check engine light came on. I took it to a local parts store who put an analyzer on it an it showed the #3 spark plug was misfiring. I am hoping its the plug. I do my own work but havn`t been able to find a correct sequence to replace the plugs.
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To start off with I am not car smart! I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L V6. Last year about this time (December) I had problems with the vehicle upon start up would be miss firing and the check engine light would come on. I would turn the vehicle off and restart and it would be fine and not happen again sometimes for a week and sometimes for months. I hooked it up to the computer and found that it was missing on the #6 cylinder. I had the coil pack replaced and that seemed to fix the problem (replaced spring 2011). About a week ago it started doing the same thing (December 1). Upon initial start up when the car is cold and the outside air is very cold it started missing again and having a rough idle. Would turn of the car and restart and would run fine but check engine light would come on.
Hooked it up to the computer once again and it read random misfire. This has happened twice now in two weeks with the same reading each time. Always when it is cold (engine and outside temp) and seems to reset itself when turned off.
I spoke with a mechanic who recently had this same issue with a different vehicle and after trying many things replaced the engine coolant temp sensor and that did the trick. He said it was a cheap start therefore i bought the part and now am looking to replace it. The only problem being i am car dumb and cant find it. I have done many searches and the diagrams i have found don't do me any justice. The past posts on here have given pictures of older models that dont match what i am looking at. It probably is right in front of my face. Any picture of a 2008 that will show the correct area I should be looking at? The vehicle only has about 57,000 miles on it.
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2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
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The title says it all. I have no CEL.
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I usually washed my previous car's engine compartments with a hand nozzle at a coin-op car wash. I would do it a couple times a year so dust and grease never built up to the point of ever needing deep degreasing.
I looked at the engine compartment of the GENIII Prius and see that there seem to be a lot of exposed orange (high voltage?) wires that would be better off covered with some kind of plastic engine cover near the driver's side. It looks naked and some of the orange wires look like they have bare wires exposed on the outside of the tubing where it connects with clamps nearer to the front of the car. I thought my car must be missing the engine cover, but I found pics online that are the same.
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I just washed my engine with degreaser and made the engine look like new and I went to start my car and it sounds like there's water in the engine it giggles and when you press the pedal you get little response I tried to drive and had to rip on the rpm to get it to move what could this possibly be?
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Thinking of washing the engine bay of my 2012 3.6 Passat for the first time.
Usually, I cover the brake fluid reservoir, the power steering reserv., the alternator and the dip sticks before I spray Gunk Gone (or something similar), leave for sereral minutes and then hose the engine down.
This will be the first time I am doing the Passat. What do you folks do as a precautionary prep to wash the engine? Is there something called the clutch peep hole that I need to make sure is properly plugged?
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I have been working on a 2001 VW Passat 2.8 for a while now. I replaced the engine for a customer. Now its misfiring bad.
I did a compression check, everything there is good
Leak down test - everything good
Replaced plugs
Replaced coil pack with known good one
Replaced spark plug wires with good ones
Its missing on 1, 5, 6, some times 4, sometimes 3
I have check all my vacuum lines, no leaks. Sprayed throttle body cleaner every place I can think of, and no change in idle.
I did replace the timing belt, but that is all good. Start's right up. Just shakes bad.
I did check for spark at the plug wires and its getting really good spark.
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Up until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT hatchback that I love with a 5 speed transmission. Lately every time I'm in 2nd gear, the transmission will pop out of 2nd into neutral. This only happens in 2nd gear. I heard it could be the shift collar (i.e. teeth?) that aren't grabbing in that gear.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 5 Speed manual and as recently as last Friday it seems to have developed a problem with third gear. Occasionally the gearshift will actually pop out of third gear back into neutral. It has happened randomly, but also it has happened at least once when I hit a rather large bump, it seemed to have literally knocked it loose from third gear. On one occasion I tested to see if I could pull it out of third gear without stepping on the clutch, and it worked once, but I have tried it again and it doesn't always let me.
To counter this problem I have been just pushing on the stick all the while in third gear to prevent it from popping out and that seems to work, but I'd like to find a real fix for it, and as usual, if possible, a cheap one.
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2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
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