My 2003 Santa Fe 3.5 is in limp mode, you can't change the gears and showing signs of faulty tps sensor, but my mechanic is telling me to change whole electronic throttle system , May be its only the sensor.
View 1 RepliesMy mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.
Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?
In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.
Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...
My first Prius, an 05 has 249K and performs pretty much flawlessly. My second, an 04 which I purchased in May, has 75K. While driving the 04 yesterday, all the lights came on the dash and really scared me. I immediately pulled off the road and checked belt, fluids and anything else I could. I then called the dealer and they thought since the car was running normal, to bring it in. For a hundred dollars I was told the HV battery, though working and not a problem, would have to be replaced due to a faulty "battery temp sensor" and that this part is not repairable....I need a new battery! Code POA9B ... Tomorrow I am taking the rear panel out and check the HV battery fan, etc. Can I drive the car with these lights on? Everything seems to work but the CC.
View 9 Replies2012 Hyundai Accent. I am getting a po326 code. Wondering if it may be a faulty knock sensor. And po463 fuel level sensor code when I fill up with gas.
View 2 RepliesWhat is the possible, or most likely, cause of a Knock Sensor No 1 Circuit Malfunction reading??
View 1 RepliesI have an 2004 Santa Fe and im having some Mass Air Flow Sensor problems but I dont know what's wrong. My engine light came on for the second time after awhile. And I got it checked for the code and of course it was my sensor again. The first time I just giggled it around and the light went off. I did the same thing today with giggling it again went off. So I feel like it might be a loose connection but I really hope it isn't failing because im pretty sure that's uber expensive to fix.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 crdi diesel santa fe that i have a strange problem with it starts up first time no problem in the mornings and can drive all day long. However if i switch it off and leave it sit for about a half hour no way will it start again until it cools off. It will start though with a push start instantly!
I got only one fault code P0340 cam shaft sensor fault, i replaces sensor and made no difference. Is this a common fault???
My hyundai 2004 sta fe awd 3.5 LX engine light came on while cruising dwn the freeway. At the same same time i heard a loud thud and speed went down from 65 to 40mph and a high idle. I drove it home and hook up the obd2 scanner and got P0720 suggesting bad output sensor. So I decided to buy new sensor from the dealership, put it in and thought it will fix the problem. After few days the engine light came on (P0720)again with the same clunk noise and speed down from 65 to to 40 mph at high rpm. Took it home, did some experiment by putting back the old sensor. I Connected the harness back, but this time I wrap the female connector with the electrical rubber tape and electrical vinyl tape. Problem fixed. No more engine light,transmission shift smoothly. I think the connector (harness side) to the output sensor was crack that's why its not making good solid connection. The rubber tape technique held the female connector pins tightly together. New part didn't do anything but it was a learning experience.
View 1 RepliesI have a code reader got P1193 - MAF sensor low voltage
Is it shot or just need cleaning? Or is it something totally different
2005 Santa fe 3.5l
My check engine light is on. I got the code pulled at Advance Auto Parts. It is P0107 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input. I wanted to test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad. I couldn't find anything online that was Santa Fe or even Hyundai specific as far as testing procedures go. I know you can test the power wire, the ground wire, and the signal wire, from what I could tell from other places I've looked. I got 5ish volts from the power wire and 12ish volts on the ground wire, which is what I understand they should be. I don't have a vacuum pump at the moment, but testing the signal wire with no vacuum I got about 0.02 volts. From what I've read online, it should be around 5 volts, but I wasn't sure if all MAP sensors work the same way. Whether I'm doing this correctly and whether they think the sensor is bad?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 VW Jetta with 92K miles and just a couple of days ago my check engine late came on and when i took to an auto store to check the code, it came as P0332, Knock sensor 2 in bank 2 is faulty. Three things have happened all around the same time and I am not sure if they are related and are just coincidence.1.Check engine light came on.2. I have noticed after that, my car RPM has dropped, idles at about 600-700RPM and when trying to accelerate, it tops at 3000 RPM and feels like the motor cuts off at that point and I have to step off the gas and the car runs ok again, but cant go over 3000.
Had trouble getting on the interstate due to this and thought the car was going to stall, but it didn't. just had to back off the gas and let it run, It did go up to the speed that I wanted, but seems like it wont go past the 3000 RPM point.3. My fuel gauge, drops to empty when it reaches the half way mark on the meter. It stays at the correct level when I start and keep the car in idle, but when I start moving, it drops to empty. When I fill up the tank, it goes all the way to F, and after the car goes the usually of about 190-210 miles, when It reaches the half full level, the meter drops to zero, so have been using my trip odometer to drive after that.
So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
My Santa Fe indicated P0715 for input speed sensor problem. I purchased both sensors and based on forum input I removed the air box and battery to access senors. Output speed sensor is easy to see and access. I am having a problem locating the input sensor. I see wires going to a sensor under both the main wiring harness and shift cable. Is that the location of the input sensor? If so how do you move the wiring harness and shift cable to allow access? If not, where is the input speed sensor located? The Santa Fe is 2001 V6 2.7L.
View 8 RepliesGetting code P2125. Read on here to get some electric contact cleaner and see if that works by cleaning the connections.
If I do end up changing out the Throttle Position Sensor, what voltage value do I look for when installing the new one ?
I know the code is fuel level sensor, but i can't find the parts online. nothing comes up with the part name fuel level sensor. What is the part number for this or the number for kit because i believe there are 2 sensors?
View 1 Replies02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
I had this sad puppy noise coming from my brakes so I have now replaced my brake booster. When doing so I took my old brake master cylinder and put it on my new brake booster. When trying to bench bleed it it only came fluid from the P marked circuit. It came no fluid from "S". I guess it stands for primary and secondary.
I thought it was because I couldn't press the piston hard enough so I installed it in the car so I could use the brake pedal to get more power. But still no fluid from "S". Is the brake master cylinder faulty? The rear discs are unevenly worn.
I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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