Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: P0335 And P1372 - Engine Goes Into Limp Mode And Very Hard To Start
Dec 28, 2014
I have an issue with my 2004 2.7 Santa Fe. I keep getting fault codes P0335 and P1372, the engine then goes into limp mode and is very hard to start.
So far I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor, the MAF sensor, the spark plugs, new ignition coils and leads.
I have traced the wiring and found no shorts, the only thing which does not match the service manual is that I get 5v on the CKPS sensor wire when the ignition is on, it said it should be 0V.
The car can sometimes run for 50+miles with no issues - then stalls with codes P0335 and P1372. I have a feeling its worse when the aircon is on but cant be 100% certain/
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I have been having a problem where the Santa Fe will drive great for a week, sometimes only a day and the engine light will come on and the car will go into limp mode. It will drop you from 65MPH to 10 MPH, if you put it in park the RPM's will race and stomping on the pedal will not affect the RPM's. After you turn it off for a couple of minutes it will drive ok again. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor, cleaned all connections and checked wires in them. I have also cleaned the Throttle Body. The Dealer wants to replace the Throttle Body.
Had Engine Codes:
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Signal Circuit High Imput
P1110 - Throttle Actuator Control System Malfuntion
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Signal Circuit Low Imput
P1175 - Electric Throttle Valve Control System (ETS) Valve #
P1196 - Throttle Actuator Control System Limp Home-Stuck
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My wife has a 2006 santa fe 3.5l limited over the winter it started acting up went into limp mode and would only go 20mph so I went and picked up a TP sensor well it went out of limp mode so I never changed the sensor well last month it started doing it again so I changed it out didn't work!!! comes up with 2 codes sometimes p2110 and p2118 but normally its p2110 2 times.
If I hit the break it kinda bogs down and pulsates.i took it to my mechanic since I couldn't figure it out and with advice from a hyundai mech. He changed APS didn't fix it so we changed throttle body with used of course didn't work I checked wires and didn't fined any open circuits what are the chances that i got a bad APS or TPS...
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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About a week ago my 2002 santa fe suddenly lacked performance and the check engine light came on . At the same time I noticed the speedometer stopped registering. I later discovered the poor performance was due to the fact that the vehicle was in 3rd gear "limp" mode. The code generated is 1602 "failure to communicate between the ecu and transmission control module". At this point I hoping its just a faulty speed sensor that's causing the problem and not the transmission control module.
Does it indeed sound like a bad speed sensor or does it sound like a faulty TCM or could it be a break in the wires between the ECU and TCM? Also, is it safe to drive the vehicle in limp mode until i replace the part later this week?
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I have a 2005 2.7L Santa Fe that was shifting poorly and getting stuck in limp mode intermittently. I read up on it and found that it was probably an issue with the input/output speed sensors. The codes confirmed my suspicions and I replaced both the input and output sensors. The codes cleared and the tranny shifted like a dream. Unfortunately after 2 days and 100+ miles the car suddenly started down shifting randomly on my way home from work. The CEL came back on and the car went into limp mode. Could the sensor have gone bad again? Or could it be the wiring harness that plugs into one of the sensors? I don't understand why the car would be fine for a few days and then all of a sudden be acting the same way.
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My 2007 Santa Fe was acting up at one time, then stopped doing it, and recently started again. My wife is the primary driver so I'm not always in the vehicle when it happens. When the vehicle is started cold, it will run a short distance then the MIL comes on and it goes to a 5 mph limp mode. After pulling over and shutting the vehicle completely down for a couple of minutes, it will run normally with the MIL still on. However, by the time I get back home to pull the codes, the MIL goes off. I don't remember the exact codes, but when it acted up last time I believe the codes had something to do with the TPS, Pedal Pos Sensor, and one other I can't remember.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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Every time i stop for gas..my 01 santa fe is hard to start..it would take 4 to 5 start before she goes, then i have to keep the rpm up, bring her to idle..after that shes ok, till the next fill up.. the only way around this is to keep her running while gassing up..while filling up she run rough idle, some time engine shuts off..then its hard to start..
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Driving on the motorway yesterday, all fine until i lost power..engine light came on, but I was able to continue driving for about 6 miles (trying to get to services) but eventually it would go no further, pulled over and found that the intercooler pipe had come off, replaced it but still no joy.
Recovery van attended and plugged in diagnostic and found a dpf fault and gas pressure valve fault, he cleared the light but i think the faults still remained.. so i had to be recovered home.
The engine will start but it does not quiet sound right, no response from the throttle and if i put it into drive the engine stops.. Its a 2007 2.2
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I have a Korean spec 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2L R-eVGT 6AT 4WD. Around a year ago it started to go into limp mode i had it checked and the error code was p0488 (EGR) Throttle Control Circuit A Range / Performance.
It has gradually become more frequent to the extent it goes into limp mode within a a minute or so . so far the dealer has changed the EGR valve, TCM , the whole turbo assembly and it is no different. They have also stripped and cleaned the intake manifold and egr cooler.
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I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
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I have a 2006 Charger R/T. My car used to not start (even thought the battery, starter, and alternator was good). I had it fixed, and the problem seemed to be electrical. However after that, it would always start, but would go into "limp mode". I let it sit for two days, and the limp mode disappeared. However, it will only start on occasion. It won't start after about 30 mins after use. It won't start for a few hours. All electrics work fine, it just won't even attempt to crank. Try to start it later, it will work fine. Even though the check engine light was NOT on, I was able to pull three codes out of it: U0100, U0103, P0700. I did have to replace the notorious "pink thingy", but everything (should be) connected fine.
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS 5spd with about 175k. Recently it started driving very sluggish. Under any more than minimal throttle during acceleration or load/resistance (i.e. climbing a hill), it bogs down and will decelerate. No check engine light, no codes, etc. I have replaced the TPS, catalytic converter, Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, and fuel pressure regulator. Without any codes, I am at a dead end. I also unplugged the MAP and threw the code for it so I know it is functioning.
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Passat 2008/09 TSI engine 16k miles. APR stage 2+
I was driving normally and suddenly EPC light comes on, and the engine goes to limp mode. I turn the engine off and then turn on again. Everything runs fine. Vag shows N276 intermittent fail. I had already this fail, but always when starting engine, and the engine used to run OK. Is this a "sign" that is time to replace the HPFP? Or can I take the chance and keep running?
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We are having an intermittent issue with car starting up and immediately throwing a CEL, red triangle and going into limp mode. Shutting off the car and restarting it sometimes resolves the issue. I'd love to be able to pull the logs from the car to see what is causing this issue.
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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Have a used sante fe with 190,000 miles that's having to crank a couple times to start change coils, plugs, wires and rear 3 injecters. still hard starting check the fpr and is good about to test fuel pressure but didnt see a valve to test fuel.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L with 170,xxx miles.... My check engine light came on and is showing the codes P0562, P1776, P0871, P0441, P0700, and P0440. While driving, the car jerks and then i only have 2nd gear. If i shut the car off and turn it back on everything runs normal again for a little while. i had my battery and alternator checked and both tested good. What could be causing these codes and why only 2nd gear (Limp Mode)?
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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