Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: No Power On Hills Sometime Won't Rev Past 3500
Apr 24, 2014
I have this problem with my 2001 Santa fe 2.7 Lt auto done 326,000 km no power on hills sometime want rev past 3500 revs and sometimes will rev past this, it seem to get worse when fitted new fuel filter in the tank? have put new filters and O rings in injections, have just fitted new coils and the cat has no restriction. Starts first time but did have trouble the auto would not start in park until pulled top cover and got it out of park and started it in neutral changed the trans fluid and seems to move through the selection better. Could it be the fuel pump??
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I've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
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I own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
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So, I recently got my car serviced with balance shaft belt, 2 idlers, crank sensor, timing belt, spark plugs, ignition wires, and ignition coils. And now when i drive my car and accelerate it to about 3400 to 3500 rpm i get this rattling noise from my engine then when the rpm surpass that range i dont get any noise anymore. I really don't want to take it back to the shop and have to be charge for a diagnose but I am thinking it could be serpentine belt or loose of the down pipe.
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Codes currently on ecm: P0134, P2125, P1174, P0735 My 2003 Santa Fe 2wd 3.5l with 160,000 miles was driving fine, then all the sudden whenever I reach about 3500 rpms there's a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from near or in the automatic transmission. As for the codes: P0134- I just replaced the o2 sensor with an oem part from autozone, so not sure why that's popping up. The connections look fine. P2125 and P1174- I'm trying to figure out whether the accelerator position sensor or throttle position sensor needs to be replaced. I have a multimeter but don't know if that will be able to tell me which one is out. The P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio and grinding noise at 3500 rpms is what I am mostly worried about though. Could a transmission flush work with that?
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My 04 EDGE 3.0 when sitting in Park will not rev up past 3500 RPM. The check engine light has been on for awhile showing P0316 and I believe P0302. My mechanic said number 2 is misfiring; the coil packs/wires/injectors are all good. He said eventually if I want to keep it a new engine would be needed, but as long as it's not burning oil it should be okay to drive for awhile. Why it won't rev up? I wouldn't think one cylinder misfiring would cause that.
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So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
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I made an earlier thread about minor low speed crash and airbag deployment that has sense been fixed.
The engine 2.0 (AZG) will rev to 3000 (3200 sometimes) RPM and stop. This is only if you give it about 20% / 25% throttle. If you give it full throttle it spits and sputters. When I had the airbags installed. The codes were read it and also came up for cam sensor and o2 changed that and now the codes are gone. No CEL and it is exact same issues still. I can't tell if ECU is doing it but it feels like it's not getting enough gas or air since full pedal makes it stall.
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I took my 09 6 cyl. AWD Santa Fe Ltd. into the dealership this morning because of a whoop whoop whoop noise when accelerating normally or maintaining speed on a grade. A bit like a helicopter sound. The frequency of the noise increases with speed and seems to come from the front driver's side. I thought it might be a wheel bearing.
$2000+ later I have new tires, a 4 wheel alignment, new rotors and pads fore and aft, a new tie rod end and a car that goes whoop whoop whoop when I accelerate or climb a hill.
The car has 125,000 km. (78,000 mi.) on it and has been very well maintained. Detonation maybe?
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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I have a 2001 1.8t. Was stock except for exhaust and Cai. This weekend I installed a Audi K04 turbo, Audi exhaust manifold, 3" down pipe to 3" exhaust, 3" maf, front mount intercooler, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator, high pressure fuel pump, 386cc injectors, r8 coil packs, ngk plugs. The car start but sounds like it's going to turn off and can't get it out of first gear. As soon as I put some gas it seems like it chokes and can't go past 10 MPh. I don't have it chipped could that be the reason or should I look at something else that could be causing the problem. I'm wanting to go Unitronic stage 2+ but don't wanna do that and still have the same problem.
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It feels like I have zero back pressure until I hit about 3500rpm. The car kind of struggles and chugs a bit until it hits the power band and then it takes off like everything is normal...
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It first started with a huge lose in power (can't rev over 3,500 rpm or get over ~55 mph) and a pig on gas! P0125 showed up so after looking for a while I figured I would change the sending unit
- Single wire (3F1Z-12A648-A), coolant temp sensor (ECT I believe) to PCM
- Two wires (F7DZ-10884-AA) and then the thermostat.
- Throughout this time the heater worked perfectly fine. The temperature gauge would get up to C but never very far from it. I would never get to the middle.
In doing so I drained the coolant took off the intake hose (cleaned the butterfly valve in the process) then got clean access to the sensors and the two 10mm screws for the thermostat. I got it all off and apart just fine minus the one stubborn plug on the sending unit (single wire). Putting the sensors back in took more effort then taking them out it could have been the anti-seize or thread sealant that came on it. Anyways, I also noticed that BOTH the new sensors I picked up from the dealership looked identical. Both of them looked similar to this:
Granted the tops were different colors but the ends (metal) were the same or at least I couldn't tell the difference. The ones I took out of the block were definitely different. The sender (single wire) looked like the one above but the sensor looked like this with the pointed tip (I can upload pictures too):
I put the coolant temp sensor in first (two wires) and the plug went on fine. Put the sender (single wire) in and I couldn't get the cap on... it was too tight. I looked at the old one and it seemed like one of the ribs to guide the plug on was off by the thickness of the rib... I tried again and thought maybe it was me and eventually cracked the cap.
Now the coolant gauge doesn't work at all doesn't even move. I then got it scanned and saw P0117 come up... Is this for the sender (1 wire) or the sensor (2 wires). Also I read that once P0017 comes up it could be difficult to start the truck... I thought it was because there was gunk left over from me cleaning the butterfly valve but that may be it instead.
My questions are... Did I mix the sensors up? I really don't think so I double checked before I put them in that only one was open at a time. Was I given the wrong sensor for the coolant temp as it looked different at the tip? I have no clue? Looking at threads for P0117 it seems to be the sensor. I will be going back to Ford tomorrow am to take the old ones in to check. Why wouldn't the plug fit on the sender (single wire)?... I have no clue.
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The wife's Jetta wagon has been giving us some issue. It is a 2001 2.0 AZG engine auto trans wagon. 195,000 highway miles and well serviced and taken care of.
Here is the symptom : Engine will NOT rev over 3200. It will hit 3200 and stop dead. This is the case either in gear and driving or just sitting in Neutral. The engine seems to take a bit longer to start but does every time. The car seems to run great other then the 3200 rpm ceiling.
Wife has been driving it around like this for a while and I have let the codes accumulate. Here is the codes it gave me.
16727-cam position sensor- I just replaced the CPS with no improvement, issue is still there and code still pops up. I was told this code comes on when the car does not fire on the first rotation anyhow so it could be something else.
16804-cat o2 bank 1
16990-ICM issue
Cleared the codes and restarted the car. 16727 comes on immediately but other codes take a while to come on again.
I am leaning towards maybe an electrical issue? Bad ground, alternator output or something. Any tips on places of ground, connectors etc to clean and check? Also one or two guys keep mentioning coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor...but wouldn't those toss a code too?
I also pondered a plugged cat but I dunno, have had that before and you can usually tell right away...the car runs great until it hits 3200 and it is like a governor kicks in and she stops dead at 3200.
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Okay I have a 2001 Vw Jetta 1.8t Wolfsberg.
I have done a few mods:
- Oil catch can
- Boost gauge
- New turbo (5000 miles old)
- Brake booster mod
- PCV system fixed and some hose deletes (that make the intake manifold have one line off of it rather than two)
- Timing belt/ pulleys
- Accessory belt / pulley
- A few other things but nothing to cause this
The car will do this randomly. And I mean once every two weeks of that. I will go to accelerate and the boost gauge says the "boost" is at zero and no matter how much I give it gas, it won't go past zero and stutters. But it stops almost as fast as it starts. I don't get it...
My catch can has 3/4" line to about 1/2" or so, that meets the oil catch can. (Ebay with the blue hose.) I have new plugs, all new (dealership recommended) lubes, all kinds of new small odds and ends. But it's never done this before. (3rd time now in a month..)
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My 2.4L 03 XLE with 220k on it is losing power. Running fine other than not accelerating or going up hills as well as it was last week. I have P420 cat code for the past 40K. It also has the typical smoky start from leaking valve seals and uses about a quart every 1k miles.
Ran a can of 44k through it and I'm about to pull the plugs and see what shape they are in, but I'm wondering if this loss of power might be the cat. I've been searching and it seems a plugged cat is a common cause for power loss. Seems likely since I use so much oil.
Seen the DIY replacement and leaky seals Rockauto suggested replacement Eastern ECOIII as well as the Walker.
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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I own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.
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So I got a new tranny about a month ago. Everything works flawlessly. Until today.... Going up hills even small ones feels like I'm towing a house. No torque felling. In 3rd and 4th gear (automatic) it gains boost really fast and peaks at 28 lbs. and coasting downhill it slows itself down. I can go from 60 to 40 without braking in a half mile stretch. I fist noticed something was different when I started to drive home tonight; it makes a sort of whining or howling noise. I can't quite pinpoint where it's coming from. I'm tired of this truck but love it at the same time.
2003 125k miles New tranny New injectors New oil cooler and egr cooler Possible bad HPOP
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2006 van. It is a work van use it every day and travel the same road every day. Pull the same hill every day use to hit the bottom at 70 and crest it at 60, now I'm down to 45 mph.
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