Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: No Power To ECU Fuses In Fuse Box
Apr 10, 2014
I've got another issue with my 01 Santa Fe, 2 wheel drive, 4 Cyl. I was driving and it cut off on me, tryed to restart it, it cranks but doesn't start.
I pulled over, thought i might be out of gas, added 2 gallons, no good. Checked fuses, had a burnt ecu fuse. Replaced it, doesn't start.
Used a test light and checked all the fuses and the ecu fuses don't light up even though the fuse is in tact. Checked inside the box to see if it would light up touching the pins inside, and it doesn't light up...
I also tried to read the codes, but I keep getting no link as the error message.. Do you think the fuse box is bad, or maybe the ecu is bad, or both?
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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There was one that said, I think, "Windshield" but it was a big gray little box it doesn't look like the rest of the fuses. I tried to pull on it but it wouldn't really budge and I didn't want to keep trying because I don't know what it is.
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Long story short, my car died on me shortly after pulling out of the driveway a few weeks ago. Initially I thought it was my fuel pump because it wasn't priming when I had the key turned to the "ON" position. Here's what I know for sure:
The fuel pump works. It was tested and is not the issue. The relay is good.
The fuse from number 28 is good. There isn't any power at the fuse. The shop has been tracing wires and looking at diagrams and cannot find any breaks in any wires.
The ECU has been swapped for another one. When I turn the key to the "ON" position, the check engine light and EPC light come on, then turn off after about 3 seconds. They do not stay on.
What else could it be? Car in question is an 01 Jetta 1.8T AWD motor code.
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Fuse #25 that controls these features is burnt out. As i replace this fuse, it immediately sparks and blows the new fuse.
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I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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I started getting the 5 sets of 5 beeps which indicates an airbag error. My light doesn't come on when I turn off the passenger airbag switch and the light on the dash doesn't come on when I first cut the key on, so I started checking fuses. The airbag fuse, #22 tested fine. But while checking these things I found out that I have no power to the following fuses;
1. #16 headlights (hi beams), cluster (high beam indicator).
2. #18 instrument illumination (dimmer switch power).
3. #20 Audio, GEM, PCM, Transmission range sensor.
4. #21 DTR sensor, Clutch switch, Starter relay, I/P fuse 20.
5. #26 Right-hand low beam headlight.
6. #27 Foglamp relay and foglamp indicator, Main light switch (upstream).
7. #28 Left-hand low beam headlight.
All of the headlights, etc are working and the only service engine error I get when I use my code scanner is P0401. Why would these items work if I'm not getting power to the fuse block. These fuses are not blown mind you, not getting power to either side of the fuses.
I'm going to replace the bulb in the passenger side airbag switch, but what would keep the warning light on the dash from lighting up when I turn the switch on?
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I have a 2005 Honda CRV. I bought the car in February and soon after, the fuse for the power accessory blew. Since then, the same fuse blows every month or so. I do regularly use the power accessory for my cell phone charger and GPS. I have read online that many people have issues with their Verizon phone charges with this model vehicle, but I don’t have a Verizon phone.
Last week I had my car inspected and the mechanic told me that during a test the battery wasn’t “registering” correctly. They suspected that I had recently replaced the battery, but I told them I didn’t. A few days later the car was off, but I was using my radio. Within 30 minutes the battery died and I needed a jump start. Today I had a hard time starting the car, and then the fuse for the power accessory blew. I took the car to the shop and was told my battery was almost dead. I had it replaced.
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Need location of the fuses for 12V power in dash.
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On a 2001 tacoma, 6 cyl ext cab. I had an issue where multiple fuses would blow continually. That issue stopped, went away on its own. But now the power windows won't work and that fuse is fine, changed it just to be sure anyways. Dealer tells me it needs an ecu and harness (since you can't buy JUST the ecu).
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I have 04 6.0 with 247,000 on it. Just rebuilt all 8 injectors 3 months ago been running great since then. Jump into my truck yesterday morning go to turn the key over and all the lights on the dash came on for a second then they were off same with the fuel pump I only heard it for a second before turning off. The truck won't crank at all. My windows work, radio works and cab lights work. My headlights are out and my cab charm is not making any sound. I've check all my relays and fuses nothing bad there I've also replace my ignition switch and the ignition it self is good. I'm think it's a bad ground some where I just need finding the right one.
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2000 7.3L SD .. The check engine light is on and if you hook it up to the reader it kills the engine and if you replace the lighter fuse it has power and if you hook it up to trailer it blows fuse and no power any...
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5 liter. I have a bad power steering leak and the dealership says I need
pressure hose
return hose
cooler hose
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2001 Santa Fe 2.4l. My stepson said it wouldn't rev over 3K and had very little power. When it idled the exhaust smelled pretty bad. The next day it died completely and would not start. It wouldn't even start with a little starting fluid and wasn't getting spark.
4 Codes:
Catalylitic Code
Cam Sensor Code
Crank Sensor Code
TPS Code.
I figured the Crank was an old stored code as that was replaced a couple months ago. I replaced Cam, TPS and then redid the Crank Sensor. Still no start. But now, it would run a few seconds on a shot of starting fliud. Exhaust still smelled bad and it didn't rev up like an engine does when it starts on the juice. So NOW it was getting spark again.
Here's the other things I checked:
Catalitic Converter: unhooked exhaust- still no start
EGR Valve: It's good
Spark Plugs: Good (has platinum in it though? , but wouldn't spark a regular plug)
Coils: Both good
Ignition Failure Sensor: Bypassed it and no start:
Fuel cutout Switch: Good and pressed a thousand times
Fuel Pump: Replaced and good
Fuel Pump relay: it clicks and even when bypassed still does not start.
Wiring Harness: No breaks or chaffed wires.
All fuses are good.
All applicable relays have been checked on the under hood fuse box
Here's Something Strange:
The Timing belt was replaced last fall with a new tensioner as well. I checked it after all the above stuff and the timing was WAY off, enough that a pistion felt like it was hitting a valve when I hand cranked it. So, I redid the timing belt (someone else did it last time) and now there is no spark once again.
I've reset the computer a few times. But now no spark after redoing the timing belt. While you may think that I may have done something when doing that here's one more CLUE : Remember above, it would do that no spark thing when we were trying to fix it earler that's why I figured the cam and crank sensor codes were legit. Now, it just does it the whole time.
I think the original problem with the exhaust smelling horrible at idle was raw fuel hitting the cats?
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