Often, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 santa fe with the 2.7L v6. I was driving and then it started to sputter and then stalled. I tried to restart, but the the engine would crank but no start. I came back to it about half hour later it started up as if there was no problem, and then after a 10 minute ride it stalled and did the same thing.I got it home and scanned it, came up with a couple misfire codes, a crank sensor code, and improper segment timing code ( I never heard of improper segment timing ). Also after fuel fill ups it never wants to start or stay running. I researched the fill up problem and found the purge canister valve to be bad. I haven't changed the purge valve yet, would that have anything to do with the stalling? If the crank sensor was bad, would it start later if it sat for a while. With my experiences when a crank sensor goes bad, the vehicle wont restart at all.
View 2 RepliesI start the car - a 2001 Ford Focus 4 cyl DOHC. It runs fine for 30 seconds then stops, as if it is no longer getting fuel. I can't start it again for a couple days then the same thing happens over again. FWIW, I parked the car for 8 months before this happened and only started it once in that time. But it ran fine then and before I parked it. What can this be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Santa Fe with the 3.5l, AWD, 5 speed auto, and 65,000 miles. Its a daily drive. Out of the blue it won't start. It cranks, but it won't start. The battery is strong and it has 1/2 tank of gas. I figured my code reader would solve the mystery, but it's doesn't produce any error codes. With no codes I don't even know where to begin.
View 4 Replies96 civic 120K miles, stock, automatic.
In March I was running low on fuel, maybe 1 gallon left in the tank. It took a few cranks and on the last try i gave it a little gas and it started, albeit very rocky for about 1 minute of driving, filled up immediately and 2 freeway miles later, no real issues. I live in LA so very low ambient temperature is not a problem.
April through May, starting was a little rocky, it was inconsistently rocky too, sometimes there was no problem. Usually it's weak, stuttering, sometimes just cranking but I seem to get it to start. I stopped giving the pedal gas because I read that's bad (I own a vintage bike, so it's news to me). I don't drive that far and figured I'd try some Seafoam and some freeway miles would clean out any debris. Worked for that tank a bit for the next tank before the problem came back.
Still getting the rough starts, but now when I give the car gas as I pull out sometimes it doesn't accelerate for 15-30 seconds, maybe 25 yards then it drive like normal. No dying at all but getting worse with starting up.
I've tried turning the key (not turning the engine over) 5 times and cranking on the 6th and it seems to work. I thought maybe it's the fuel pump or fuel filter but read it could be an ignition coil/ spark plug/ spark plug wire issue. Two different ball games.
My MPG is not really droppingI had a new fuel filter put in in February as routine maintenance (thing was on so tight had to bring it to a shop so no rookie mistakes there). Timing belt &water pump replaced 6,000 miles ago
I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesI recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles
My 07 3.3 SF is throwing P0154 and P0300 codes. Autozone said the P0154 is Bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor. But exactly which one? The P0300 is random misfire. Could they be related?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7L engine. Right now it seems to be making a funny grinding noise in the passenger side. It's driving and shifting fine. Wheels seem to be ok. Once it cooled down the noise seemed to go away.
View 4 RepliesI have an 02 2.4 gas SF. After a good while, the car will run rough, lose power and will not take any throttle. As if it is starving for fuel. But it will idle fine and if it does stall, will restart. On a hill, I have to drop into first and keep it at 1000 RPM (yikes!)
If I keep going with very little throttle, it may resolve itself. It is always fine after a complete cool down. I checked for vacuum in the tank by opening the filler while it was misbehaving. I have a new CPS, new coil packs, new filters. I've have enough gas fill ups to eliminate water in the gas.
It has thrown no codes. I went ahead and ordered a MAF sensor and a cam position sensor...just guessing. (it had failed emissions which I resolved by cleaning the MAF.)
I have a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 litre 4wd and am having a crazy problem. It has the automatic heating and air conditioning module (digital). The heater fan comes on as soon as i start the engine and runs in the 2nd highest speed. I can adjust it so it goes one speed higher but never lower than the one it comes on at and cannot shut it off. It operates the same under heat OR A/C modes. The temperatures adjust o.k. but it is always on. Where would i find the a/c control module? Could it be the transistor or resistor and where are they located?
View 2 RepliesToyota read the codes wrong and told me that I need a new hybrid battery. That is incorrect info. Codes P0300 P0301 P0302P0303. The codes mean misfire in cylinders 1 , 2 and 3. I have had injector cleaned in the past new spark plugs. If I drive it it gets warmed up and shuts down. It will restart and run maybe 7 more miles the same. The brake light comes on and I have to restart it.
View 9 RepliesMy 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
View 5 RepliesI would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
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