I've got an 02 Santa Fe with the auto-dimming mirror. The tension that keeps the mirror in position has gotten loose, so the vibration from the road causes it to slowly move downward while driving.
Is there a way to tighten this up? Do I need to remove the mirror from the windshield to do this? (because, I can't even seem to figure out how to do that!)
I noticed when I got my CPO 2013 GS350 that the rear view mirror has some "give" - it feels a little loosely attached to the windshield and there is some play before the adjustment actually starts to engage. It also rattles sometimes with road vibration as a result. Is this the usual for GS350 or has mine come loose?
I noticed when I got an ES loaner vehicle that the mirror was firmly attached to the windshield.
While driving at between 20-45 MPH in warm weather only IDEAL SPEED IS 38-42 .. At times the car jerks forward and downward like, even slowing down at red light: Seems like the whole problem is coming from transmission! (Sensors)? The car is cursed. Example:
1- The symptom seems like your driving in drive position then all of sudden it shifts to low gear
2- When driving normal then it seems like the car shifts to neutral and the RPMs shoot up to 3-4
3- Sometimes when stopped the steering wheel shakes bad.
The car runs normal in winter time? Doesn't do it everyday.
My old flip style rear view mirror was getting a little bad looking on the bottom of the mirror, so I decided to go pick up an OEM auto-dimming one. I did not care for homelink as I have no need for it, nor do I need temp since thats on the car already, so I wasn't interested in a non oem mirror. Plus I like simplicity, so plug and play is always nice. I paid $70 for the mirror, you can expect to pay around that as well.
Anyways, from my understanding, our Camrys should come prewired for the auto-dimming mirror, or at least the sunroof equipped models should come prewired. The plug sits in the overhead console near the drivers side sunvisor taped down. It's just a little white plug with a black sheath around the wiring.
Tools Needed:
-Your hands
-A smallish hex key (I don't know the exact size) or a smallish torx screwdriver
From start to finish, this shouldn't take you longer than 10 minutes to do. Let me emphasize first that you should make sure you're prewired for the auto-dimming mirror before you go out and buy one unless you prefer to hardwire things, or return things.
Step 1: Check if you're prewired for the mirror. Start by pulling down the overhead console. Push on the sunglasses holder to drop it down, grab on with both hands, and pull down. Don't worry, you shouldn't break anything, but don't pull down insanely hard otherwise you may pull some wires out of the harness attached to it. Now check near the drivers side sunvisor and see if theres a plug taped down, if there is, fantastic!
Step 2: (if you're not prewired for the mirror, you can stop here).Push that plug through the hole near the windshield to get that out of the way. You can now put the overhead console back on.
Step 3: Behind your stock rearview mirror, theres a little screw holding it on. You'll need either a hex key, or a torx screwdriver to remove it (although you can probably use a flathead to get it out if you want). DONT LOSE THAT SCREW. Once you unscrew it, pull up on the mirror to get it to slide out of the little metal mount its sitting on.
Step 4: Now that the old mirror is out, get the new mirror. Get the plug you pushed out of the overhead console and plug it into the mirror. Now, slide the mirror back onto that metal mount and then screw it in.
Step 5: Turn your key on, or to acc, and the mirror should now turn on. Easiest way to tell is if the compass comes up.
Step 5.5: Admire your hard work and your fancy new mirror!
A few days ago I felt a feeling of bumping on a flat road when I turn slowly. I was wondering if it might be a transmission shift shock due to an insufficient warming at the cold temperature. It seemed such bumping didn't happen after enough warming more than 5 minutes.
The outside temp was just above 0 degree on yesterday morning, I started SF without warm-up and drove about 15 minutes. Then I was making 3 point turn on a residential road covered with a little bit of ice on its edge when I felt one of rear wheel was slipped a bit on the ice and rear wheel got locked or seized and skipped. Upon the complete turn I was able to drive the SF home slowly cautiously, however every time I made a slow sharp turn left or right there had been skipping leaving tire marks on the driveway.
I thought 4wd lock was initially activated at that time and it had not been deactivated since. I tried to push and release 4wd lock button several time with no success, and I felt the SF moving very heavier than usual. I was trying to park the vehicle backward with a sharp turn too, it was much harder to turn back than forward feeling like rear wheels were stuck somewhere, suddenly there was a loud banging or thumping sound from bottom behind. Right after the banging the SF was moving as normal.
Today I tested SF by driving above 60km/hr as well as sharp turning for 30 minutes, everything looked normal. A couple of hours later I decided to test 4wd lock button again. While I driving SF at about 10km/hr I pushed 4wd lock button and released it 15 seconds later. I did it a couple of times because I was not sure if 4wd lock was activated and deactivated. And I was making 3 point turn again, then the same rear wheel seizure and skidding happened. I stopped the SF and I pushed and released 4wd button a couple of times with no success.
Finally I tried to turn back as I did before, and there was a banging sound, I thought the sound was weaker than yesterday, since then everything went back to normal. There is no grinding or clunking noise from the area where the differential unit is located. I was wondering if mine has faulty electronic clutch itself or any other components. The warranty was over 5 months ago, mileage is only 49,000km.
I have a 2012 Prius with Advanced Technology Package. I'd like to always have Lane Keep Assist on. Is there some sort of hidden setting so this comes on by default rather than having to set it every time I start the car?
Also, I don't like the dim feature of the rearview mirror. It comes on by default. Is there a way that it can be set so it is off by default? It is hard enough to see out the rearview sometimes, and the dimmer makes it more difficult for me at night. I don't like having to hit the switch every time I start the car at night.
Do the passenger rearview mirror tilts down when you put the car in reverse?
View 7 RepliesMy truck has done this since I got it and it's pretty damn annoying. While at idle the rear view mirror vibrates slightly and drives me nuts. If you give it any gas at all it stops. Like I said its super slight but it's enough to notice for sure and makes stuff look blurry if your looking through it.
View 5 RepliesI just used it for the first time and I noticed it barely turns downward as far as it did in my 2004. Is this correct, or does it need some adjustment? It works just not nearly as well.
View 9 RepliesNew post for a better problem. It was a hot day today in vegas, but my santa fe was running at normal temp (I double checked with my analyzer), running great. When I got home I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, all the electrics went out (lights, gauges, etc.) yet the car was still running. It took about 5 seconds or so for it to wind down and stop.
2001 Santa Fe, 2.7ltr, 120,000 mi., 2 wheel drive, great shape, no codes.
The other day I was driving my Santa Fe. I noticed the RPMs went up and then the car started slowing down, so I pulled over. Since then the car won't drive. Engine starts up but the car won't move at all. When I push the gas pedal I hear the engine revving, but no movement in drive or reverse. No check engine light, and I checked the transmission fluid, looks and smells good. I checked and it has no transmission pressure. I verified by removing the transmission cooler lines and shifted the truck in all gears. Nada. Could it be the filter, a sensor or the torque converter? Or am I looking at having to replace the whole transmission?
View 21 RepliesI have a 2002 Santa Fe V6. I'm getting the codes p1529, p0755, p0760, & p0765.
The car can start up & go, only for a short time. Engine will keep running, car won't move.
Kill the engine for 3 to 5 minutes, can start it up & go once again. Going 40mph increases the odds of the car not moving quicker.
Reading lights are not working, not sure why and would like to know why.
Also the high beam light is not coming on.
Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe and it's been running fine except I just replaced my oil pan from damage from ice and just did front brake pads 2 days ago.( oil went onto the pads and caused a weird grinding sound) ...
After the brake pads were done it drove fine. I came home and the next morning I go to reverse and the truck will not move at all. I can go to any gear but it just will not move. I thought it could be the brakes were frozen because the front right was smoking after the pads were installed and had the guy who did them check it out. he figured it was a caliper on the driver's side and replaced it, but it will still not move. I am praying this is not a trans problem.
My friend bumped my mirror with his head and it's now hanging loose (pictures: Busted Rear View Mirror - Imgur ). It was very cold when this happened, which I assume is why it happened so easily. I have tried a 3M adhesive (in a warmer environment), but the mirror was too heavy and didn't even come close to setting it in place.
So I'm wondering if there is a trick I'm missing. Does the mirror detach somewhere? Is there a specific kind of glue/epoxy I should be using?
Rear-view mirror got knocked loose. How can I fix it? [with pics] : Cartalk
I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
View 3 RepliesI just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 RepliesJust bought a 2001 santa fe, 2.7 v-6, automatic trans, 2 wheel drive, new tires, 120,000mi. Got a great deal, don't want to negate that by nickle and dimming. 3 weeks ago noticed a howling from drivers front at speed, pitch changes with wheel speed not rpm so i figured wheel bearing. Took both front tires off with vehicle firmly supported and put vehicle in drive and increased rpm. The noise is not at hub but at other end where the shaft attaches to transaxle. I figured there would be an "axle bearing" or some such i could replace but I can find no reference of one, and my book doesn't have break down of the transaxle. Where can i find more information, schematics, etc? I hope I don't have to remove transaxle to have one pressed in.
View 2 RepliesI have a right front lower ball joint very loose and wonder if that ball joint press fits into the lower "A frame". And how is it removed ? What size fork tool needed?
View 8 Replies2001 F250 7.3L 280k miles. Truck is new to me in the last 6 weeks. Was driving out to Glenwood Springs last night and I got a weird rear end vibration between 79 and 81 mph - couldn't say if it's a new vibration as haven't had the truck long enough. It's sort of still there over 81 but less obvious than bang on 80. Whilst the vibration was there I caught a slight dip in the road that caused a grinding noise to accompany the vibration - I'm guessing because something's was getting extra loading on the upside of the dip.
I'm away from home until Monday so my options are a bit limited, however while crawling around in the dark last night pushing and shoving stuff to see if anything was loose I noticed a couple of things:
Minor leak from pinion seal - but it has flung some spots of oil. Drive shaft 'center bearing'(? U shaped attachment on drive shaft to chassis with rubber bearing?) has play I can push the drive shaft at least a 1/4" with my hand and it seems a little sloppy but I'm no mechanic.
I'm going to check transmission fluid level today and top up if required and check the magnets, such that I can limp home as necessary avoiding 80 and get the diff checked and pinion seal replaced. Does the drive shaft bearing need changing or should it have that much play? I'm assuming it's LSD on the rear?