Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Lack Of Acceleration On The Highway
Apr 23, 2012
2002 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD automatic
She was on the highway this afternoon and was accelerating to merge in with traffic. Apparently the car just reved up without actually accelerating. She said it felt like she was in neutral. I've driven the car a few times over the last week and it has been running perfectly - No hesitation anywhere at any speed. There are no CELs (yet). It is probably worth mentioning that it has been raining HEAVILY here for the last 24-hours and I would not be the least bit surprised if she hit a few puddles on the way. I can just about guarantee the CPS has never been changed and am suspecting it may be a short in causing her problem.
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My '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
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Well today I have moved on to the next project on my 02 v6 4X4 Santa Fe, which is the rough running. When I got the car, it had CEL with codes for misfire #5 and lean condition codes. I noticed the wires were in need of replacement (one had black tape wrapped around it) so changed the plugs and wires. The 2 hoses, one that goes between the valve covers on the pass side and the hose between the valve cover and throttle body on driver side were both cracked so replaced them along with a few other vacuum lines, just because I had access to them. Cleared the codes and it still runs like crap, but after 112 miles, town and highway driving, there are no CEL codes. When its first started it idles at 1500 and sounds like its missing and has very little power going down the road. When it warms up seems to run a bit better but still nowhere close to what it should. Equal compression on all 6 cylinders and has power to all 6 injectors and tested to be sure there was a pulse to them as well. Coil packs all tested well. the exhaust is in bad shape and don't know if that would have any effect on how its running.
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Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
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Need to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
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My new XE Vue 4cyl 164hp engine seems to struggle in highway situations. The 4 speed engine seem late in shifting from 4th gear to 3rd when asking for more speed as in a passing situation.
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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We have an '03 Santa Fe (2.4L). We are the original owners.
About 18 months ago, one of our Ignition Coils cracked and caused a misfire when then engine was under load. I replaced the coil, wires, and plugs myself at that time.
Since that time, we have experienced intermittent engine jerking while at highway speeds. There does not seem to be any pattern, and it does not happen every time we drive it.
I took it to the dealer who diagnosed a valve cover leak. They replaced the gasket, one ignition coil, wires and plugs. The problem still happened intermittently after that. I brought it back to the dealer, who diagnosed a valve guide/seat leak. Oil is getting into the cylinder and fouling the plug they say.
I could not afford the fix (and was very dissatisfied by the service I received) so the dealer recommended to change the plugs every 3 - 5K miles to get me through. I was told this on 03/31/09 (125695 miles). I replaced the plugs, wires, and BOTH coils again at that time.
Last week @ 130K miles the engine jerked again. I replaced all four plugs again Sunday morning, but the ones that I pulled were NOT look oil fouled. I showed them to a mechanic friend and the guy at the auto parts store. Both agreed that the spark plugs looked almost new. Sunday evening, while driving on the freeway, the car jerked again!
Since this happened again SO soon after changing the plugs, I really have a hard time believing the valve guide diagnosis. Some possibilities I have seen/heard:
- Crank position sensor or camshaft sensor (This was replaced at 78K miles along with the all of the belts)
- Clogged fuel filter
- Bad O2 sensor
- Vacuum leak from the hose that is between the throttle body and the engine casing
- The dealer's valve seat suggestion
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My daughter was driving our 3.5L Santa Fe on the highway when it decelerated. Stepping on gas and no acceleration. She said she got a CEL and oil light. She was able to pull over to the side of highway and turned ignition off and on and she was able to drive off the highway and called me. She was about 120 miles from home. She said the cel light and check oil light were now off and I had here check the oil and it was at full.
I had her drive in the right hand lane without going over 60 and she made it home no problem. I took it out for a drive and no issues. Do you think this is a crankshaft position sensor problem?
mileage is 170k - timing belt was replaced at 130k.
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I bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L AWD about 5-6 months ago. It has close to 120,000 miles and has a terrible vibration at highway speeds. It starts around 55-60mph and gets increasingly worse as speed increases. The steering wheel originally vibrated quite violently, but after changing the "front axles" it resolved only the vibration in the steering wheel
I took it to a local shop we trust, they changed the "front axles", all spark plugs, ignition coils, timing belt, transmission fluid change, and a o2 sensor.
I changed out a serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley (due to a squeak), another o2 sensor, and tried to change the transfer case + rear differentials fluid. I couldn't change them because the fill plug was very stuck... we used a propane torch and a large socket wrench.
Anyways, after the front axles were replaced, the steering wheel got significantly better, there is however some vibration through it. After they were replaced it did not fix the vibration shaking the whole car. I've noticed that when you let your foot off the accelerator all the way, the vibration stops. When you step on the accelerator again it starts shaking very bad, and then begins to get slightly better. The vibration has a rhythmic timing to it. It seems like it pulsates stronger, then softer every 1/2 second or so
Also I have had the wheels balanced 3 times. I doubt it's the tires, unless a tire is out of round. My rotors also do not seem to be warped. When I brake, there is no shaking/shimmying. I was wondering if it could be the engine mounts? This vibration is very annoying, since I have to drive long trips sometimes. Other than this problem I like this car and would love to see it fixed.
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My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
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I have a 1991 DODGE Dakota V6 3.9L FI with a TorqueFlite TF-6 A-500 4 speed RWD Automatic Transmission. Now, this truck is amazing and so is this transmission. It's been going for 22 years and about 400,000 miles and the bands in the tranny have never been replaced...EVER. The fluid filter has been replaced, once. Anyway...it's amazing, I mean the thing is still going strong after all this time and such low maintenance.
Anyway, I noticed a slight lack of acceleration, so as usual for an old automatic, I figured the bands might be slipping a bit. So I dug up the torque specs for it and performed the adjustments. Now, this is the funny part and I was not at all surprised to discover this. In fact, I'd had the hunch the entire time. I discovered that the bands are so old that they no longer respond properly to the recommended torque specs, so I had to guess work them. I did a bit of careful fiddling as I know just about everything there is to know about automatics and I understand perfectly the damage that can be caused when under/overtightening bands.
Anyway, I did some fiddling and got some interesting results that actually made me laugh to be honest, but I knew at first I wasn't quite doing it right. First gear was all right, but second kicked in a little late, and I felt a slip when third came around. So, I decided it was time for a moment of truth. What I ultimately ended up doing was tightening the bands to the recommended torque (in this case 72 inch lbs) and then slowly backing them off until I felt them let go, Then I put the proper torque on the locknuts (in this case 30 ft lbs).
Now, this tranny has two bands and a clutch pack, it has the low-reverse (rear) band, and the Kickdown(forward) band, and I believe the clutch pack is used to engage 3rd gear, because the rear band gives you 1st and rev, and the kickdown band gives you 2nd. After my ultimate adjustments, the kickdown band DID drag just a little for about a minute, but she quickly worked herself into a state where she's shifting better and accelerating better than she ever has before.
I'm amazed by this thing. I'm wondering if the kickdown band lets off when you hit 3rd gear? I know that when I feel the first kick, it's the KD band grabbing the front drum, which gives me second, but I'm wondering if it pulls simultaneously as third gear kicks in, or whether it stays tight against the drum?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla with under 90,000 mi. Sometimes while driving, the car will refuse to accelerate and slow down to about 10 mi an hour. The only way to fix it, is to pull over and turn the car off and restart it. It immediately responds and it doesn't happen again. This lack of acceleration usually occurs in the first 5 mi of driving. I have a new battery...
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2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
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I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
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A couple of weeks ago, I went out in the evening after work, started my car and the CEL came on. It was fairly cold, probably 20 F. The car idled fine, but lacked power under acceleration. After the engine warmed up, it ran fine. The light stayed on for about a week, with the same symptoms. This week, we got a warm spell, 50s and 60s, and the light has gone out. This would seem to imply some malfunction of a temperature sensor, presumably coolant. It seems that when the engine is extremely cold, it is not adjusting the mixture appropriately, after it warms up, it is fine, or at least acceptable. I have an appointment to bring it in to the dealer. I assume they will be able to retrieve the code even if the light is not currently on.
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On my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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It'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
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My 2006 santa fe diesel 2.2 has started to be be a bit smokey when accelerating not even hard had the egr valve off today and gave it a good clean still the same it's not really bad but can see when moving off from parked...
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The front motor mounts are bad. This has been confirmed. When I am cruising at a constant 45 or 55 mph and choose to accelerate because traffic is clearing, etc. the car will thump a bit and only slowly creep faster. It feels as if there is very little response other than the mild thumping. Getting to 65 mph takes time. The car has 70k miles and performs almost flawlessly at slower speeds. Is the thumping/lack of acceleration a symptom of the bad front motor mounts?
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