Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Knock On Driver Side When Starting Or Shifting Gears
Jul 29, 2016
I hear a knock once in a while when starting my 2004 2.7 V6 Santa Fe and sometimes when shifting gears. I also hear it when going over rough rough, bumps, tracks etc... I'm thinking motor mounts 152k on the car.
My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.
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Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
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A few weeks ago, my transmission (automatic) started rumbling while shifting from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear. Shakes the whole car, like you're driving over a rumble strip. Only when the engine is hot. I read online that I should get my transmission flushed and replace the fluid, but should I be expecting the thing to go or is this a normal hiccup for the Santa Fe?
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My 2009 Santa Fe (2.7 L V6 GL, 5 months old 7500 kms) just recently started making some very pronounced knocking noises on startup when the engine is cold. It never did this before and only lasts a minute or less, it's not that the engine itself is very cold since I keep it in a heated garage all the time when it's home, but when the engine is starts first thing in the morning it's very noticeable.
I have an appt. at a dealership tomorrow to get it checked, outside of an oil change I never dealt with these guy's before. What it could be? It's full of oil which they just changed 4 weeks ago.
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The driver's side map light went out. I have the plastic cover off, but I can't get the bulb out. Is there a trick to this or does more than the bulb come out?
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Santa fe 2003 2,7L 137000Km No Abs FWD ... I changed the alternator last week ... I got I problem since yesterday I doesn't had any light coming from the driver side (only the signal light working) I just changed today the bub last one had more then 6 year and I changed both. But when I turn on the light. nothing open. If I put high beam, we can saw orange glow.
I tested with my multimeter engine not started.
black and white 11volt
black and red : nothing (0.28 volt)
I try to see where is the fuse(under the dashboard or the relay (in the engine bay) I don't see light or beam term in the panel.
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I am trying to replace my control arm but I am having a few problems,
1. the front bolt on the frame side just spins but doesn't come out.
2. I cant get the bolt in the spindle to come out, I have been hammering away at it and even broke 2 sockets trying to spin it, still cant get it to move.
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What is it? Can it be shut off?
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Not my Elantra, but an '05 Santa Fe 2.7 ... I have a fuel leak from the driver's side of the tank. It has continued leaking while the vehicle has been parked with about a quarter tank of gas, even after 8 hours. I can see where it is leaking from - a quarter size depression in the tank - but I think this is some sort of plastic pan, not the tank itself.
Is there is a plastic pan under the tank?
If so, does it cover just the bottom half?
If it is a plastic pan, is the tank itself plastic or metal?
If it is plastic I don't see how it could develop a leak, so is it possible for the leak to be at the top of the tank due to a fuel line problem (maybe some mysterious syphon condition)?
I searched the forum and leaking fuel tanks don't seem to be a common problem. My usual parts store doesn't even have a listing for a replacement fuel tank.
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My '03 3.5 has the driver side rear brake piston stuck. Tried the C clamp but no movement. Short of replacing the entire caliper...
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My daughters 02 santa fe's driver rear door will not open. The power door Can't figure out how to get it open so I can take the door panel off to find out what is wrong?
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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My car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic transmission. It was bought with about 79k miles on it and currently has about 94k miles. Last week I began experiencing rough shifting between gears. My CEL had been on for a few months but I wasn't having any performance problems so I ignored it. When I started having shifting problems I went to autozone to have the codes scanned. All that came up was P0441. I cleaned the purge valve and cleared the code. The CEL stayed off.
I continued driving and having shifting problems. The car slipped out of gear when it wanted to upshift. The engine revs until I release the gas. Once the rpms drop low enough the next gear would engage. This seemed to happen for every gear shift except 1-2. For my first few trips no CEL.
Finally, yesterday on my way to work I got a CEL, and it was intermittent, similar to other issues I had read about. However, the more I drove the car, the worse this problem got. It would not stay in gear while cruising down the road. I tried changing gears manually, revving the engine up and letting it drop to idle, but nothing would work. Luckily the car got me to work but it was a real jerky ride. Towards the end it didn't even want to take off from a stop. And it wasn't in third, the engine just wasn't engaging the transmission. It's like the car was in neutral. But moving the gear shifter didn't seem to work.
The car did not make it home, however. When I started it after work, it went fine for about 2 blocks and then started slipping. Within a quarter mile I couldn't even go in first. Turning off the car and waiting a few minutes, then going again would gain me some distance, but the car would start slipping again almost right away. I was able to turn around and park the car in my work's parking lot.
The problem is I have no way to pull the DTC's now because the car can't make it very far. If it's something simple like the input/output speed sensors, I'll replace those in the parking lot. I'm a DIYer and hate paying others for what I can do myself, but I may need to bite the bullet on this one.
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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The driver's side coil spring broke, but here's the story.
When I found out there was a recall on my 2004, I called the dealership. They told me that they were not replacing the coils springs, they were only going to attach a brace or bracket in case the coil springs would fail.
Well, last night the coil broke and it was in the parking lot and not at 50mph on the road.
What about bracket fix? It was told to me that it would only prevent the coil from cutting into the tire, not fix it.
I am going to call Hyundai HQ this morning, but what should I expect? Is it unreasonable to expect to get a set of springs and have someone local do the work?
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I opened the door yesterday, got out of the car, then when I got back in the door wouldn't close. I did end up getting it closed but it took a lot of force and there was major resistance. When I got out, there was no resistance top open about a foot opening, just enough to squeeze out. Any more than that and I would have needed a lot of force to get it open.
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I have a relatively decent standard of DIY mechanics, but I have never worked on a Hyundai before.
I have a leak coming down the drivers side rear shock absorber (the bit that bolts onto the swing arm) this has obviously resulted the the rear of the car riding low, but, is there something I can take apart and replace or do you have to replace the whole thing.
it seems likely that it could just be a seal broken somewhere.
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I have been trying to self diagnose an issue with my pick up for a while now. I have an 01 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that shifts really hard into all gears. I was told it was the transmission going out, so we replaced the transmission with a rebuilt one and it did nothing for the shifting issues. We then had the transfer case rebuilt which also did nothing for our problems. My father who has some general mechanic knowledge is certain that the free floating rear end is not turning with the correct timing for the transmission shifting. No check engine lights come on at all during these issues. When I took it to a mechanic he told me I needed a new transmission and blew me off when I told him it was just replaced.
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I have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
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When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
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I purchased this vehicle brand new this is the first real issue besides the poor paint quality. Ilove my Santa Fe! how can I fix this??
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