Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Key Stuck In Ignition On Accessories Position
Apr 29, 2012
I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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I have a 97 Bravada. Recently the check engine light came on and then went off. I didn't think anything of it at the time till the other day I drove it to work and back fine without any issues, then the next morning I tried starting it and nothing happened. No cranking, no interior lights, no sounds.
I tried jumping it thinking the battery was dead but that didn't work. Now my key is stuck in the ignition in the accessory position. It will not turn all the way back to release the key.
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Quite awhile ago my key started to randomly get stuck in the middle ignition position but it was happening very rarely and some gentle jiggling was letting me take it out easily. Well a few days ago that went from very rarely to each and every time I start the car.
Now its a tossup whenever I go somewhere whether the key will pop out like it should or I'll have to fiddle with it for anywhere up to ten minutes.
The car never has a problem starting, its only when I have arrived somewhere and need to take the key out that is an issue. I've managed to remove it every time so far but it has taken a fair amount of WD-40, jiggling the bejeezus out of the key and steering wheel and plenty of patience.
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
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I've recently purchased an 02 Envoy from an auction. There are a couple of issues. The main one started last night. While at the store I put the truck in park and turn off the ignition. The ignition will not go into the lock position. I messed with the key and go it to turn off. Then started the truck to leave and couldn't put the truck in gear. I messed with the shifter and was able to put into gear.
At that point the gear shifter would move from park to reverse without me pushing the break pedal. I drove home and could not turn the key all of the way off again. Moved gear selector from 1st to Park a few times and then was able to remove the key. I restarted the truck and could not move the gear selector again; however I was able to remove the key easily.
I am leaning towards replacing the "Neutral Safety Switch" on the tranny but with my symptoms, I've seen brake light switch, ignition, and solenoid at gear shift selection.
Back up lights do not work either. Since I purchased the truck, I've replaced,
-Battery
-Ignition Coil
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Took my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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The passenger side 3rd row seat is stuck in the down position. The driver side lifted and locked in place just fine, but when I pull the release lever on the passenger side the outer part releases but center portion won't budge at all.
I've tried everything I can, which isn't much other than pulling and grunting at the same time (usually works for me )Critical because I need to set the 3rd row up in order to reach the bolt holding the 2nd row seat so they can be removed so I can access the fuel covers in order to replace the faulty fuel sensors so my gas gauge will work.
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99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
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Okay, I've done a few topic searches and see some variations on this, but not this specific scenario. 2001 F-250 (5.4L, 4x4, auto). My daughter's truck and I wasn't home so this is the best info I have as relayed by her.
She turned the key off, the engine shut off, but all the "electrics" stayed on -- radio and a/c fan to be specific. She said that morning the truck had a dead battery so she got a jump start, leading one to suspect that the electrics stayed on the previous night as well. (?)
I had her disconnect the battery and let it sit until I got home. Of course, when I got home and reconnected the battery, everything works normally as it should. And has worked normally for a few days.
So.. any words of wisdom out there while we wait for "the next" occurrence?
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My main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
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2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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I have a 2001 Saturn L200, in great condition—other than that the wipers are in the upright position, like goalposts. They work fine, turn on and off perfectly, but they always return to the "up" position on the windshield. As far as I can tell the rest of the electronics (i.e., lights, signals, etc) still work fine. A couple months ago the wiper blades started to slowly inch their way up, stopping at increasingly higher positions until they finally stopped where they're at now. A mechanic I talked to said that the wiper switch is burnt out and it would require ripping out the dash to replace the wiper motor, while a friend of mine thinks resetting the switch is all that's needed.
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Any trick? I folded down the larger (driver's side) middle seat to get a large payload in...now it won't pop back up...no matter how much lever pushing and seat-yanking I do. It's a 2001 Limited.
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