Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Intermittent Stumble While Idling
Jun 30, 2016
2003 2.4 base Santa Fe with 167k miles. It's having an intermittent stumble while idling and at take off once the engine is hot. I have replaced the plugs, coil pack, IAC, intake and cleaned MAF as well as replaced the PCV valve. Also checked and no vacuum hoses are misplaced or missing.
After some reading it appears it may be the EGR? I ordered it to replace just because I'm running out of things to try to replace without going to a shop.
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On light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
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Once warmed up, while sitting at a stop in Drive, there is what feels like an engine stumble every so often. Good guess is every 45-60 seconds, so it only happens once, maybe twice at long stops. There is a sudden change in pitch the engine, and the car - for lack of a better term - shudders. The thing I have noticed is that when it does this there is no indication anything has happened with the tachometer - RPMs hold perfectly steady. Additionally, there is no shudder when sitting in park or neutral, only drive.
I initially thought it might be an ignition fault, so when I replaced the balance shaft belt I also replaced the crank sensor. No change in behavior. I did some googling, which suggested the issue might be related to the EGR not closing properly. I changed all the vacuum hoses and removed the switching solenoid to test - it seems to be doing its job. I have not removed or inspected the EGR valve itself. However, because there is no symptom in engine speed and the sensation doesn't happen in park or neutral and only happens when warm, I am starting to suspect the transmission itself is the culprit - I can imagine if the torque converter quickly engaged and disengaged - and a little power made it to the wheels - the same result would happen.
There is nothing else odd about the engine or transmission. No codes. Runs like a top. Transmission always shifts perfectly. Fluid was changed two years ago, about 15,000 miles. What came out looked good as well. I'm okay with replacing EGR components, but I don't want to throw money at the problem unnecessarily. Maybe try driving around with the EGR vacuum hose pinched off or disconnected?
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I recently noticed while driving my Santa fe the car started to stumble.Then a little while later the check engine light came on. Pulled the code came up with p300. It's a random misfire related code.
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i have just replaced the clutch in my 2002 santa fe all went well but on the test drive i noticed the revs jumping up and down while idling at a set off lights . it was not in gear and the clutch was out. Have checked all hoses and connections. problem still there.
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I am new to Super Dutys but i love them! Altho mine is not being so nice. It has the 5.4 in it. When its idling it has a stumble to its idle with a pop every now and then out the exhaust. It revs fine when its first started. If i pull out on to the road and start away easy its ok a slight miss but if i put the throttle down its just falls on its face. But if i get it up to cruising speed its ok as well. But even at cruising speed more then 1/8 throttle and it starts missing and falling on its face. What it could be? It smells like its running lean as well.
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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I just got a used Hyundai Santa Fe (2004). I was so excited until about 50 miles of driving it. Here is what happened:
I was idling at about 20 mph when all of a sudden the engine jumped (a little bit) - the RPM went down to 0 and the check engine light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and put it in park - then the car went back to normal like nothing happened, it didnt stall all the way. I was concerned and took it back to the dealership and they did a diagnostic test on it and it came back negative, nothing was wrong with it.
My boyfriend was driving up north with it and it happened to him, this time, it stalled. He said that the engine jumps a bit- but all of the lights go on on the dash. I remember it smelling pretty hot when I opened the hood before with it happened the first time, so I asked him to open the hood. He said it did smell hot. He checked the coolant and it was empty. It looks like there is fluid in it from the outside, but that was just the line that previous fluids had. He put coolant in (not in the actual radiator, but in the place where coolant goes) and it still stalled. I didn't want him to drive it anymore for fear of something worse happening, so there it sits.
Is this something that happens with most cars, or this kind of car? I am kicking myself for not purchasing the extended warranty, but I didn't have the extra cash to add over 1k to the price. Could it be just the coolant needing to go into the radiator? Do Santa Fe's typically shut down before they overheat? I was doing some research and it seems that cars stall because of either the fuel system or electrical system.
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I have the 5.3L FLEX Fuel with 98K miles. I have purchased this 2nd hand and having a slight idle stumble when in park as well as in drive @ a stop light...etc. If i am under way, the vehicle runs flawlessly. When i am idling with the brake on or in park, there is a slight stumble that is driving me crazy. I have replaced the high dollar IRIDIUM plugs but did not replace the wires...they looked fine. I did clean the throttle body. I get fuel from different places and it does not make a difference. I have not cleaned the fuel system professionally but I have used OTC additives such as SeaFoam. No codes are exhibited on a diagnostic computer or any updates available for that matter.
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So from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
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Im getting an intermittent stumble with a check engine light. I have a 1990 Ranger XLT with a 2.3L 5spd. I pulled the codes 32 41 88. I looked them up but Im not sure what to check next. I have done much searching on several sites but havent found much. OBD-1 eludes me.
32(R)EVP - EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
41System Indicates Lean
88 Loss Of Dual Plug Input Control c ..
What does it all mean??? What would you check next?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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I have intermittent ambient readings for outside temperatures. Several times it seems to just be stuck at some temperature point and then doesn't move. My last trip to Wyoming it was set at 51 degrees far. and didn't move for days. I've had this happen before and then if left alone it will start working again in a few days. What is going on?
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When I take off from a start it will intermittently stumble or hesitate, seems to be around 1500 rpm. have also noted it at higher speed while cruising. its more like a momentary power cut than a miss fire.
So far I have done the following
new fuel filters
clean MAF
new PCV valve
new spark plugs
check all hoses and plugs etc
injector clean
checked techstream for codes. there is one for a heated O2 sensor but dont think thats it.
2002. SC430
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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I'm having intermittent problems with the air conditioner on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If it matters, it's a 2wd, 3.5 liter model with about 66,000 miles. Below I will post a description of what's happening, as well as some other things that I've noticed and things that I've tried (these may or may not be relevant to the problem though). OK, here's what's happening:
I first noticed the problem back in late July and since then it has been happening more frequently. So far the problem only occurs after I've been driving on the interstate, although I'm not sure if it's a matter of my speed, or just a matter of how long the a/c has been running. Typically I only drive 15 minutes at a time unless I'm on the interstate where I would typically drive for a few hours or so. What's happening is that after a while (the time varies from 20 minutes to an hour or so) the flow of the air conditioning coming through the vents slows down to just a trickle. The a/c is still really cold, but it just barely comes out of the vents, no matter what speed I set it on. Here are some things that I've noticed (and a few things that I've done to try to repair it):
1.) I read that it might be the cabin air filter, even though normally Santa Fe's aren't equipped with them. I took the glove box out, and found the spot where the air filter normally goes and there was one installed (we bought the car used). I took it out and it was disgustingly dirty - a bunch of dirt, some leaves, sticks, etc... I just took out the filter completely and didn't replace it.
2.) While I was looking at that air filter, I also noticed that the box right to the left of that filter was wet with condensation. This was right after a two hour drive with the A/C on maximum cold all the way home though, so I don't know if that is normal or not. It wasn't dripping on the floor, but there was noticeable condensation on that box (I don't know what that "box" is).
3.) The problem will sometimes go away if I turn the air conditioning completely off for about 5-10 minutes. It seems that the longer I leave the a/c off the better chance I have of it working when I turn it back on.
4.) When I change the fan speed on the air conditioning I can hear the blower motor running at different levels. It almost sounds as if there's something in the dash that is clogging up the pipes. I can hear a whistling sound when the blower is on the lowest speed - when it's up any higher than that I can't hear it, but that's probably just because of the noise coming from the blower itself.
5.) I had the problem today, and I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I got back into the car I heard the sound of water trickling from underneath the glove box. It was very quiet, but it was there.
6.) When we have this problem, it happens on all of the vents. It doesn't matter what vent you choose for the air to come out of - the flow is just a trickle.
7.) It doesn't matter if it is heat or cold - the flow is very slow on both of these.
8.) The a/c is still ice cold during all of this. It blows colder than any other a/c that I've ever had.
9.) I noticed that sometimes while driving, a white mist will come out of the vents. Sometimes we have the problem above after we see the mist - sometimes it still works fine though, but I did think it was odd that the "mist" was coming out. I'm not sure if it's water vapor or what, but it does go away if you turn the temperature control a little to the warm side (even just a notch or two away from max cold).
Originally, I had thought that it was the blower motor and I was just going to replace it, but then I started thinking about it and don't think that it is the blower motor because it seems to be working well most of the time, and even when I have the problem I can hear it running - again it sounds like something is clogging up the a/c system somewhere between the blower and the vents. I also read some things about the blend doors, but I'm not sure if that's it or not.
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2002 santa fe gls v6. I recently brought the car used and it appears to be in great shape with 135,000 miles, however the car has issues which I'm hoping are minor. Here are my questions:
The brake light and battery light stay illuminated, can this be a bad alternator? Speaking of alternator there is a rattling sound coming form the alternator area, do the bearings go bad? If it is the alternator, does it matter if I use a 95 or 110 amp? Is the alternator difficult to replace?
There is intermittent jerking when in drive. Is it possible that a malfunctioning alternator not delivering proper voltage can cause this type of issue possibly affecting the system computer? Could the jerking be due to something else like crank position sensor?
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Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
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