I have intermittent ambient readings for outside temperatures. Several times it seems to just be stuck at some temperature point and then doesn't move. My last trip to Wyoming it was set at 51 degrees far. and didn't move for days. I've had this happen before and then if left alone it will start working again in a few days. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesMy 2008 Santa Fe has a problem with the power steering at temperatures below about 8 C.When I start the vehicle in the morning in the garage and begin to reverse, the steering wheel seems stuck and will not move. As I force it, usually to the right, it breaks free but will not return to the left without much coaxing and further turning to the right. There are no fluid leaks or unusual sounds while this is happening of any kind. I replaced the steering rack once for this problem and immediately after a second time with no improvement. I am using the OEM fluid. The vehicle is well maintained and has been having this problem since 60,000 km(40000 miles) I really fear my next visit to the Hyundai Dealer and the frustration of not knowing how to get them on track to solve this potentially life threatening problem.
View 9 RepliesMy Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.
What should the A/C high and low side pressure readings be for a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE?
View 7 Replies2003 2.4 base Santa Fe with 167k miles. It's having an intermittent stumble while idling and at take off once the engine is hot. I have replaced the plugs, coil pack, IAC, intake and cleaned MAF as well as replaced the PCV valve. Also checked and no vacuum hoses are misplaced or missing.
After some reading it appears it may be the EGR? I ordered it to replace just because I'm running out of things to try to replace without going to a shop.
I'm having intermittent problems with the air conditioner on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. If it matters, it's a 2wd, 3.5 liter model with about 66,000 miles. Below I will post a description of what's happening, as well as some other things that I've noticed and things that I've tried (these may or may not be relevant to the problem though). OK, here's what's happening:
I first noticed the problem back in late July and since then it has been happening more frequently. So far the problem only occurs after I've been driving on the interstate, although I'm not sure if it's a matter of my speed, or just a matter of how long the a/c has been running. Typically I only drive 15 minutes at a time unless I'm on the interstate where I would typically drive for a few hours or so. What's happening is that after a while (the time varies from 20 minutes to an hour or so) the flow of the air conditioning coming through the vents slows down to just a trickle. The a/c is still really cold, but it just barely comes out of the vents, no matter what speed I set it on. Here are some things that I've noticed (and a few things that I've done to try to repair it):
1.) I read that it might be the cabin air filter, even though normally Santa Fe's aren't equipped with them. I took the glove box out, and found the spot where the air filter normally goes and there was one installed (we bought the car used). I took it out and it was disgustingly dirty - a bunch of dirt, some leaves, sticks, etc... I just took out the filter completely and didn't replace it.
2.) While I was looking at that air filter, I also noticed that the box right to the left of that filter was wet with condensation. This was right after a two hour drive with the A/C on maximum cold all the way home though, so I don't know if that is normal or not. It wasn't dripping on the floor, but there was noticeable condensation on that box (I don't know what that "box" is).
3.) The problem will sometimes go away if I turn the air conditioning completely off for about 5-10 minutes. It seems that the longer I leave the a/c off the better chance I have of it working when I turn it back on.
4.) When I change the fan speed on the air conditioning I can hear the blower motor running at different levels. It almost sounds as if there's something in the dash that is clogging up the pipes. I can hear a whistling sound when the blower is on the lowest speed - when it's up any higher than that I can't hear it, but that's probably just because of the noise coming from the blower itself.
5.) I had the problem today, and I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I got back into the car I heard the sound of water trickling from underneath the glove box. It was very quiet, but it was there.
6.) When we have this problem, it happens on all of the vents. It doesn't matter what vent you choose for the air to come out of - the flow is just a trickle.
7.) It doesn't matter if it is heat or cold - the flow is very slow on both of these.
8.) The a/c is still ice cold during all of this. It blows colder than any other a/c that I've ever had.
9.) I noticed that sometimes while driving, a white mist will come out of the vents. Sometimes we have the problem above after we see the mist - sometimes it still works fine though, but I did think it was odd that the "mist" was coming out. I'm not sure if it's water vapor or what, but it does go away if you turn the temperature control a little to the warm side (even just a notch or two away from max cold).
Originally, I had thought that it was the blower motor and I was just going to replace it, but then I started thinking about it and don't think that it is the blower motor because it seems to be working well most of the time, and even when I have the problem I can hear it running - again it sounds like something is clogging up the a/c system somewhere between the blower and the vents. I also read some things about the blend doors, but I'm not sure if that's it or not.
2002 santa fe gls v6. I recently brought the car used and it appears to be in great shape with 135,000 miles, however the car has issues which I'm hoping are minor. Here are my questions:
The brake light and battery light stay illuminated, can this be a bad alternator? Speaking of alternator there is a rattling sound coming form the alternator area, do the bearings go bad? If it is the alternator, does it matter if I use a 95 or 110 amp? Is the alternator difficult to replace?
There is intermittent jerking when in drive. Is it possible that a malfunctioning alternator not delivering proper voltage can cause this type of issue possibly affecting the system computer? Could the jerking be due to something else like crank position sensor?
Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
View 6 RepliesI can do all the basic car maintenance but this has me perplexed and a little frightened ...
My dependable 2001 Subaru outback has been dying after I start it up for the last couple of days. The build up to this was that the headlights have been flickering ever since I changed the fan belt a few weeks ago.
Whats strange is that the car will turn on and run fine until I turn the radio or air conditioner on. A few minutes after doing so I'll hear the weird ambient droning moaning sound start to build up in the speakers of the car - then the odometer starts to go haywire and the car will die if idling.
When I try to start it up again afterward the battery comes on fine but it wont turn over. I don't notice a clicking sound like a starter would indicate but rather an electric-ish sounding hiss. The next day it will start up again. And for what its worth the headlights no longer flicker.
On my 2010, I am monitoring the inverter coolant temp with the SCANGAGE2. Has correlated that temp to the MG1 & 2 temperatures? I usually see the inverter temp running 10-20F above ambient temps, and am considering some winter grill blocking but need to know if the inverter temp is a sufficient guide to the temps at the MG sets. Reading over the gen 2 blocking posts, I see some rather high readings with grill blocking. Would only block the lower grills anyway, but want to be sure I am instrumented well enough before I do anything.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1984 camaro z28 305 that has problems with overheating. In temperatures below 70 degrees I don't have problems but above this temp I do. I put in a new radiator, thermostat, water pump (OEM), added an extra electric fan, and put the transmission on a seperate cooler. The engine was rebuilt a about 5 years and I think I had some problem with the over heating even before the rebuild. I park the car during the summer because I can't stand driving with the heat on in the middle of summer to keep the engine cooler.Would a high flow water pump work or what else can I look for?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2010 Camry and my air blows but not as good as it use to. The air doesn't get cold in extremely hot temperatures and does not blow as hard. At night the Ac works fine and gets cold. Same with the heater, the heater works fine but once idle the heat blows cold. When i start back driving the heater gets hot again.
View 2 RepliesI've had my '96 Saab 900S for almost 6 years and it has 119K miles. Last weekend w/ the below freezing temperatures, she decided not to start on me again. I'll reiterate the word "again" as this non-starting problem happens once or twice every winter, when the temperatures are very cold, usually 20 degrees or colder. I've taken it to the mechanic who doesn't know why it continues to do this to me every winter during a really cold spell. As soon as the weather warms up 30 degrees or higher, the car starts up fine w/in a couple tries. During the non-starting fiscal the car will turn over, but then just dies, as if it is "starving for fuel".
On a few occasions I've tried the "cold start", or pushing the gas pedal while turning the engine on for 5-10 seconds, and then trying to start the car normally right after. This has worked on occasion in the past, but isn't a sure bet, this last weekend it didn't work. Recent work includes new battery, distributer cap and rotors, spark plugs, fuel line checked out "ok", and fluid changes are regularly maintained. Does it sound electrical or mechanical? No check engine light comes on so it makes it hard to diagnose. As this car was built in Sweden, it shouldn't be so temperamental in the below freezing weather every winter.
My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
I have a 2007 prius. About a month my dad has lightly knocked the car with a wall at the front left side of the car. the coolant tank has been pushed & the pump has started giving abnormal noise whenever running but the problem is that i got a check engine light with the red triangle & a sign on the multi-information display. I have pulled the tank to its right place & released the pump after cleaning the calcification and so the noise has stopped & i have disconnected the battery during working & so the error code has gone.
After about one day the check engine light has came back alone & the reading was P1150 which means a coolant path clog.
I have tried all I can & done some tests; the water temp. in the coolant tank is hot even after hours of driving. I think there's no clot because when i cleaned the pump i have puffed into the tubes after disconnecting some connections & the air was going out easily from all openings. I have resetted the error code 2 times
now i'm having a new phenomenon.. in the past 2 days during driving & especially when i pull hard on the pedal & when the battery is in its lowest level . Suddenly the red triangle show up with sign that indicate a high temperature on the multi display. These signs don't remain more than 3-5 seconds & then disappear.
I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
The driver's side rear suspension on my wife's 1998 Toyota Corolla LE completely locks up when the temperature (read-out from dashboard) is below 30-degF... every little crack in the road feels like the earth is splitting in two and jars my spine. The car becomes almost undriveable. However, above 33-34 degrees, it goes back to being perfectly driveable (as driveable as a 240k mile car is expected to be). I've replaced the front and rear linkages and rotated the tires to try and rule out the wheels... no change in behavior. I just need this car to last another year... really not worth replacing the suspension.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3. We bought it used with 24k on it about 5 1/2 years ago. I've uploaded a zipped mp4 of the sound that comes from the area of the AC. The sound was recorded from the passenger seat as it never seems to do it when I'm ready with the hood up.
So far the car has had 4 compressors in 72k miles. The first burnt out the clutch, as did the second a year later. This noise is intermittent, but is getting more frequent and worse. The noise started about a year ago, 3 years after the 3rd compressor install, the compressor was changed out but the noise came back 2 days later so I'm guessing it wasn't that. It only happens when the AC is engaged and doesn't change with the speed of the fan. I'm more concerned as the extended warranty is coming to an end, 75k, and the mechanics really seem stumped.
For those without audio it's a really hard noise to describe. It starts of with almost a low thump and then turns into a resonating metallic screeching. If I turn off the fan or the AC, the noise stops and I can turn them back on a few seconds later and it all sounds normal for a while.
When I drive my 2010 santa fe. I get a noise that sounds like i have a flat tire in the back. It is intermittent and starts at any speeds. But when you stop the vehicle and start again the noise is gone. The mechanics at Hyundai replace replace a part for the all wheel drive but that did not fix the problem.
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