Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector
Apr 13, 2014
I have a 2001 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, I've had my Auto Transmission Speed Sensor replaced and will have the output speed sensor replaced to have speedometer/odometer and cruise control fixed. While having the first sensor replaced my mechanic noticed the Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector (the plug on the wiring harness) was cracked. I've been looking everywhere for this connector. I don't want to buy the complete wiring harness because I've heard it is very expensive. I want just the connector. What is the part number of just the connector?
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My Santa Fe indicated P0715 for input speed sensor problem. I purchased both sensors and based on forum input I removed the air box and battery to access senors. Output speed sensor is easy to see and access. I am having a problem locating the input sensor. I see wires going to a sensor under both the main wiring harness and shift cable. Is that the location of the input sensor? If so how do you move the wiring harness and shift cable to allow access? If not, where is the input speed sensor located? The Santa Fe is 2001 V6 2.7L.
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The electrical connector to the camshaft sensor on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.4 engine has disintegrated so badly (I think due to engine heat) that I need to find a replacement. I have already repaired this connector several times with superglue and it has now reached the point where it is just no longer repairable. (same thing happen to a person of this forum back in 2008)
However, this connector cannot be purchased on it's own, according to the hyundai agent, we need to replace the entire wiring harness.
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My check engine light is on. I got the code pulled at Advance Auto Parts. It is P0107 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input. I wanted to test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad. I couldn't find anything online that was Santa Fe or even Hyundai specific as far as testing procedures go. I know you can test the power wire, the ground wire, and the signal wire, from what I could tell from other places I've looked. I got 5ish volts from the power wire and 12ish volts on the ground wire, which is what I understand they should be. I don't have a vacuum pump at the moment, but testing the signal wire with no vacuum I got about 0.02 volts. From what I've read online, it should be around 5 volts, but I wasn't sure if all MAP sensors work the same way. Whether I'm doing this correctly and whether they think the sensor is bad?
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I have a 2005 crdi diesel santa fe that i have a strange problem with it starts up first time no problem in the mornings and can drive all day long. However if i switch it off and leave it sit for about a half hour no way will it start again until it cools off. It will start though with a push start instantly!
I got only one fault code P0340 cam shaft sensor fault, i replaces sensor and made no difference. Is this a common fault???
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
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I'm trying to get to the manual transmission input shaft seal on my 01 GTI w/12V VR6. I've removed the 3 bolts surrounding the input shaft but the metal shroud underneath the 3 bolts seems to be adhered tightly in place. You can see the 3 bolt holes and metal shroud in this photo: [URL]
Am I on the right track in trying to remove that shroud? If so, how do I loosen it?
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My santa fe is throwing a vss code. I was trying to replace it but was not sure exactly where it was. Is it the one right under the air filter box or is that a crankshaft position sensor or some other one?
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I have an ABS light on. I have crawled under the truck I don't know how many times everything is connected just as it should be. The wires did have to taped up because they burnt into after getting against the exhaust at some point, but I had fixed that awhile ago, I've even tore back into the tape and re-did everything again, nothing gets rid of the ABS light. When this first happened it would go away after I turned the truck off, but would come back after using the brakes a few times, especially harder stops. Then it got to where it just came on and stayed on, and didn't go out no matter what. Thinking my ABS speed sensor went, I bought a brand new motorcraft one from rock auto it fits perfectly in the rear, plug looks good. I can't find NOTHING that would keep this light on. The code is always the same "Rear ABS Center Speed Sensor Input Malfunction", how to get rid of this?
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2004 Sport Trac V6. Been having hard shifting and P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit. Cleared the codes and still returns.
From my searches, readings and looking at the parts diagram. On the newer 5 speeds the sensor is the one on the inside of the tranny. This requires taking the entire tranny apart? Is there an external connector for the sensor that I can check or clean first? Replace this sensor. I know the older ones were mounted on top of the tranny. I think this one is mounted on the inside though.
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Okay, I have a P0720 code. I bought the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and read that it is on the back end of the transmission.
Need to confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
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2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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I had a rebuild done on my 2002 Accent. My question is now we get a code for the output shaft speed sensor. Would this have been replaced as part of the transmission rebuild?
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So my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
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I just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
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A few years ago my auto transmission in my 3.5 L engine hyundai santa fe started shifting rough from 2nd to 3rd gear, i did a trans flush and changed the input output sensors, anyway last week it started again, so i just changed the input output sensors again, it did not fix the prob this time, do you think a flush would work.
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I have a 1997 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual. We are rebuilding the transmission ourselves, and taking on the task has been pretty hard. We are stuck at the input shaft. How to take the input shaft out? Do you need a special tool?
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I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
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Engine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
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I have a 2001 4 cylinder Santa Fe. And atm I'm trying to replace the balance shaft oil seal but am having major problems getting it out.
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I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
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