Since of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
View 2 RepliesI have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
My 2005 Santa fe has a single knock when you press the accelerator, then between 60 and 70mph there is now a shake in the steering wheel. I have been told it is probably the CV joint and just wanted more input.
View 2 RepliesWhat is the possible, or most likely, cause of a Knock Sensor No 1 Circuit Malfunction reading??
View 1 RepliesFault code : P1586 MT/AT codification, no check engine light, the glow light is blinking when I give ignition but if I turn off and turn the ignition on again the light it will go off. What I noticed is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm the engine is hesitating, like not getting enough fuel.
View 8 RepliesI hear a knock once in a while when starting my 2004 2.7 V6 Santa Fe and sometimes when shifting gears. I also hear it when going over rough rough, bumps, tracks etc... I'm thinking motor mounts 152k on the car.
My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.
My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
I got up on a rainy monday morning to go to work put the key into the ignition and no turnover occurred. Not even a click. Looked like the car had plenty of juice though. Right now my poor car is just sittin' in the driveway. 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6
View 19 RepliesI have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
I have a 2003 Santa Fe with AWD, automatic, and 3.5L engine. Saturday I went to get in and key wouldn't turn. Tried to mess with shifter and steering wheel but no go, Wife got it to turn after I went to work. Won't start. Waited for a new ignition lock cylinder then replaced today. Still won't start. There is no chip in the key as far as I know and the kill switch thing is still plugged in. Jumping does nothing. Doesn't even try to start or do anything when I turn the key all the way. What am I missing here?
View 5 RepliesThe key in my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe is rotating freely without starting the car. The Accessories are always on and I had to disconnect the battery to prevent drainage. I removed the lock cylinder and found a small camshaft like part that seems to be loose and broken, one piece of it seems to be broken in the switch. Is there anywhere I can get this camshaft like part? I searched but can only find either the lock cylinder or the switch. See the attached pic for the part I am talking about.
View 3 RepliesI've just bought a 2.0D Santa Fe (I am UK based) and when I turn on the ignition the warning lights light up and then go off - which I believe is the light check.
However, the transmission warning light does not come on during this check period. Is there an easy way to test this? I'd like to know when the 4WD kicks in or there is a problem but don't know if there's a bulb fault or not.
I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
2003 Santa afe 2.7 litre: So for some reason the key ignition cylinder light no longer works, but no issues with the ignition at all. What powers the light, is there a specific part of the cylinder I need to check or replace or do I have to replace the whole cylinder. Would a another cylinder I pick up from the junk yard work?
View 11 RepliesOk, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
View 8 RepliesA few days ago my ignition key would not budge when I tried to start my 2003 Santa Fe. I tried all the tricks like turning the wheel. dry lube, etc but no luck. All indications are that I need a new ignition lock cylinder but I can't figure out how to remove it. I removed all of the plastic and metal shrouding below the dash but can't seem to find a hole to release the cylinder. I have also tried to remove the whole cylinder body assembly by disconnecting the wires and loosening the bolt that secures the "arm" from the ignition cylinder body to the steering column but that also seems to be secured in a way I can't figure out.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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