Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Idling Very High When Put In Park Or Neutral
Jul 11, 2009
My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
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05 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, 71,000 miles
Prior to today it had revved high, up to 3000 RPM, once or twice upon start-up but then settled down once I started driving it with no issues at stop lights.
Today, however, no issues upon start-up but within 1 mile it started acting badly. Pulls strong under load, i.e, accelerating. Once cruising speed is achieved and the right foot is relaxed, it loses power, slows and bucks.
At stop lights revs are down to below 800 while in drive and is slow out of the gate. When put in neutral at stop lights, it revs to 3000 then falls to 2000 then back up to 3000. It does not stall.
Replaced the IAC and it ran fine in park for exactly 2 minutes then began revving again.
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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I've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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I'm trying to find out what I need to check or replace to get my 2000 Excursion to idle at normal rpm's in park and neutral.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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Inherited a 2000 Saturn SL1 from my daughter. I has an issue of idling high. It idles about 1100 rpm in park, but when I put it in gear that jumps up to about 2000 or so. I can hit 35mph w/o hitting the gas. There's also a noticeable suffer type smell from the car.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe and there is a loud grinding sound when the car is in park and neutral. This noise doesn't happen all the time but i would say 50% of the time. When there is the noise it does go away when i put the car into drive or reverse.
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UK 2.2 Diesel
Problem for about 3 years. Always starts in neutral, rarely starts in park.
Any possible cause. Maybe a micro switch or a cable adjustment.
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I just started idling high in park and while driving I cleaned the throttle body and the ics but did not work I pulled the ics out and had some one turn the key on and off and the ics plunger does not move I can feel the ics motor moving but the plunger does not move while i had the ics out I pushed a rag in the ics hole to control the idle and the idle came down but the ics plunger still doe not move would that mean the ics is bad?
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I replaced the thermostat in my 2000 3.1L Grand Prix SE yesterday. I had to remove the throttle body to get access to it. After putting it all back together, my car now idles around 3000rpm in Park or Neutral. It drops to around 2k when driving which is still a little high. I can definitely feel it taking off faster and it seems to buck a little bit here and there while driving. I did hear a loud hissing sound when I first started it up right around the throttle body area. I don't hear the hissing sound anymore, though. It justs sounds like it's running a lot harder. So my question is, would a leak around the throttle body (I did not use a new gasket and it's possible that the gasket wasn't properly seated) cause these symptoms? On the plus side, my car seemed to heat up super fast!
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Well all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.
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My Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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The title says it all. I have no CEL.
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