Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Idler Tensioner Pulley Seized
Jan 25, 2014
I have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4. Couple days ago my idler tensioner pulley or whatever its called seized up and took the belt out with it. I got a pulley that resembles it from Autozone mind you that it was the only parts store that had one in stock even Hyundai didnt have the part. The only difference is the hole size for the bolt is about 1/4 inch bigger then the stock pulley. Is there any chance I can get a spacer and make up for the difference?
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
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I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
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My Ex is missing the label showing the serpentine belt routing diagram. I pulled one off the Autozone website for V10 with AC. It showed that there are 2 idler pulleys (one on the left and right side of the alternator). It also has the tensioner pulley.
I only have a tensioner on the left side of the alternator. The one on the right is missing. There appears to be a threaded hole where a pulley should go. Since I bought this used, I thought the previous owner took it off.
I used the bolt from the old tensioner pulley I replaced for the hardware and put a new pulley on.
I also looked at other V10s on used car lots and none of them had the pulley to the right of the alternator. Should there be one there?
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The idler pulley bearing of my 3.3l Sonata NF has become quite noisy, as though it is running dry. Does this necessitate a complete pulley replacement or can it be disassembled and the bearing repacked (or if necessary replaced). I am becoming concerned that the bearing may fail altogether soon.
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An idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
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I have a noise coming from the front of the engine. The noise stops once the the thermostat opens and the water pump starts circulating coolant.
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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I need to replace the bearing on my Idler pulleys, both smooth and grooved. I also want to replace the bearing on the tensioner pulley. What are the part numbers and the best place to order them from?
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I have a 2006 Camry 2.4l and I'm hearing a loud noise coming from the idler pulley on cold startups when I put it in gear. I don't hear it when it's in park. The noise gets worse if you turn the a/c on. I have replaced the belt, idler pulley and top motor mount. I took the belt off and cranked it when cold and there was no noise even in gear. I can see the idler pulley moving and can confirm that's the noise but what it causing the belt to make it do that? Could I have bought a defective idler pulley?
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Ok I have a 2002 f250 7.3 4x4. The belt starting to shred and make a whiping sound at highway speed. So I replaced the idler, tensioner and belt. That was not the problem it still making noise so next I changed water pump. Still not it so I changed a/c clutch, bearing, and pulley. And It still not fixed. Right now the back of the belt is turning black on the wrighting like a pully is locking up. Also the front edge of the belt is starting to wear. I only have 255,000 miles on the truck and has been well maintained.
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After finally identifying a bad serpentine belt tensioner for being the the culprit for my engine noises, my mechanic said that the 'thru-bolt' is siezed. Since the replacement job was at my budget limit he said he doesnt want to get into it in fear that he has to brake the bolt and drill it out (requiring 2-3x more labor cost according to him).
If this is the case, and the 'thru-bolt' is seized, is this in any way something I can make a an effort to tackle? I have a jack and jack stands, and plenty of time.
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My ball bearing on the tensioner seized and broke the belt. Does that happen all the time?? My car is a CP and right now it's only 36k miles..
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Which way do you turn to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm?
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My tensioner pulley broke yesterday and I replaced it. But it had broken 3-4 months ago also.
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